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Tamiya Clear colors on Bones


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Put some Tamiya clear colors on a few Bones this weekend and I love the results. Goes on like a wash so it takes no time at all and both gives interesting color effects and makes the figure more clearly translucent.

 

Here is a Grave Wraith with Tamiya Clear Smoke on he robes and Clear Green on the sword, I'll throw a few more up when I get home.

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Edited by Erifnogard
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Science!

 

So I take it you can just paint on the Tamiya like you do paint?

 

How does it look on the regular, non-translucent Bones figures?

 

Please also recommend which colors to get. (Yes, that's a broad question!) 

 

I already have Tamiya Clear Red for blood effects. : https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2906549/sam-and-max

 

TIA!

Edited by ced1106
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Science!

 

So I take it you can just paint on the Tamiya like you do paint?

 

How does it look on the regular, non-translucent Bones figures?

 

Please also recommend which colors to get. (Yes, that's a broad question!) 

 

I already have Tamiya Clear Red for blood effects. : https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2906549/sam-and-max

 

TIA!

I used it more like a wash but you could definitely use it like paint because it is paint, just not opaque. You do want some of their brush cleaner rather than water for best results cleaning it out of brushes though.

 

I haven't actually used it on anything but the translucent Bones yet but it is my understanding that the smoke makes an interesting effect on silver based metallics and yellow or orange make gold based metallics richer. Gonna try that out at some point.

 

Of the ones I've tried, Clear Smoke my favorite. The Clear (no color) is useful for translucent a like the blue Bones that are already pretty dark. The clear makes them more translucent without darkening them. If I were only going to get a couple, I would get Smoke and Clear. As it is I went back and bought all of them because I want to experiment with them.

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Yup, been using them for quite some time & I'm looking forward to Bones the 3rd to play around with the transparent weapon packs.  Just a couple of notes that might help anyone new to the product:

 

  • Thinning them down (I use Tamiya thinner for this, others have used dihydrogen monoxide) gives the ability to control color graduations.  For example, on my water weird, I hit the crevices on the figure with pure Tamiya Clear Blue, and then worked it up with the highlights being done in a 2:1 dilution.  It's a simple trick, but it helps prevent the 'solid gummy bear of a figure' look that you get sometimes with the Tamiya Clears on translucent figures.
  • Ink washes work pretty well to help definition without 'clouding' the figure.  Normal paint washes have a tendancy to pool and cause patches of opacity randomly over the figure, which results in a mottled look that's very hard to do anything with.
 

Science!

 

So I take it you can just paint on the Tamiya like you do paint?

 

How does it look on the regular, non-translucent Bones figures?

 

Please also recommend which colors to get. (Yes, that's a broad question!) 

 

I already have Tamiya Clear Red for blood effects. : https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2906549/sam-and-max

 

TIA!

 

 

  Almost.  Tamiya Clears are an alcohol-based acrylic, so they don't play as well with other water based paints as you'd hope.  They're sticky as hell and you probably don't want to use a really good brush with them.  Unthinned, they're hard to work with - not impossible, but they're thick & gluggy and pushing them around is a lot of work.

 On the regular figures?  Well, you wouldn't use them over unpainted white material unless you have a specific look that you're going for, and I haven't done it myself so I don't know if there'd be any coverage problems.  But using them over painted material is easy and works pretty well.  For example, using them over metallics gives a really spiffy depth to the color:  Tamiya Clear Read over a gold metallic gives something close to Candy Apple Red gloss car paint.  I've used Tamiya Clear Smoke over bare metal for a fast & dirty armor effect, and that worked really well:  you could do the same over a silver metallic.

 

As for the colors to get:  Tamiya Clear Red is almost mandatory.  It's great for gore effects, and red lacquered armor looks great, but as you noted you already have that one.  Tamiya Clear Blue is good for water effects.  Tamiya Clear Smoke is the most neutral (although shading to purple) and looks good for standard grey armor affects, but it's not useful for gems etc.  Tamiya Clear Green is good for undead effects.  Tamiya Yellow / Orange I haven't used that much, and I think in all honesty you could skip them.  If I had a recommendation, it'd go Red / Smoke / Blue / Green / Yellow / Orange.

Edited by Laoke
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Normal paint washes have a tendancy to pool and cause patches of opacity randomly over the figure, which results in a mottled look that's very hard to do anything with.

I had that happen with my Scale 75 inks on the burrowing horror I am working on right now.

I found that a mix of 1 Part Ink : 1 Part W&N Glazing Medium : 1 Part W&N Flow Improver (1:10 Dilution) got rid of that problem.

It also stopped it from drying in about 10 seconds making more mottling when I did not cover the area fast enough and went back over a dry area while smoothing the coat out.

 

Almost.  Tamiya Clears are an alcohol-based acrylic, so they don't play as well with other water based paints as you'd hope.  They're sticky as hell and you probably don't want to use a really good brush with them.  Unthinned, they're hard to work with - not impossible, but they're thick & gluggy and pushing them around is a lot of work.

Yes they are quite sticky, I thin them at least to 1 Part Clear : 1 Part X-20A Thinner before I use them.

If I find it is not leveling out enough for what I am doing I thin it more than that though.

I just finished clear coating some clear Game Science dice I had painted the numbers on earlier with the X-22 Clear and I needed to thin it 1 Part Clear : 2-3 Parts X-20A Thinner to get it to stop pooling in the corners of the faces of the dice.

I needed ~4-6 Coats on each die that thin to get a even gloss so it took forever even if it only need about 90 minutes in-between coats.

 

Edit:

I thin my Tamiya Clears on a concave side up watchglass and then tip it to see how it flows when thinned to check if it is thin enough for what I am doing.

Edited by arclance
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Great info. From the linked thread (thanks!) I'm under the impression that Tamiya doesn't take hobby paint well? 

 

Ideally, I'd like to apply a layer of Tamiya Clear on a translucent figure, then pin-wash the miniature with premade washes (eg. Army Painter, Secret Weapon).

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