Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This is a mild conversion of Reaper's Large Stitch Golem. The main piece is resin with a separately cast white metal left arm with a long, pointed weapon. The piece is about 1.75 inches (43mm) tall and is rather portly. Sections of the piece are sculpted with a loosely woven material that reminds me of burlap, so that's what I'm going with. The rest of the piece is covered with a smooth material that could be cloth or tanned leather, maybe even bare skin. It's anybody's call, I suppose, but I'm going with tanned leather. In keeping with the 'stitch' theme, the 'eyes' are two different sized buttons sewn onto the face. There's also a row of buttons going up the spine. The buttons are various designs with different attachment options - two or four hole. One button has none, giving me the impression that it's attached by a shank at the back.

 

That then is what I'm working with. The pics show the piece as provided. And a note about the pics - I'm shooting these on the fly as I complete each phase of the project. Formal portraits at the end, of course.

 

Questions and Comments are welcomed.

 

Stand by...

 

Glen

post-5109-0-23280100-1461815466.jpg

post-5109-0-00013700-1461815480_thumb.jpg

Edited by GlenP
  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

...and speaking of pizza. The pie is made from a flattened ball of putty, trimmed to a disc that is a bit less than the diameter of the pan. The edges are then rounded and a shallow depression added t

Bob the pizza-slinging Golem is finished now - or at least finished to the point where I put it aside for several days then go back to it with fresh eyes looking for stray paint blobs, unpainted spots

Thanks for the comments everyone!   I've finished off the burlap here, again using the Warm Deep Browns triad with Muddy soil for the deep shadows and some Linen White for the higher lights.   The

Posted Images

To continue... The Golem's right arm was pie cut (a wedge shape) at the elbow and the forearm and claws rotated upward until one was vertical and the others slightly lower and at a slant. The joint was secured with a small dot of super glue to hold it in place while I marked the excess areas that need to be removed. The forearm was then broken off and the excess areas trimmed away. The forearm was reattached with more superglue and a straight-pin sized hole was drilled through the forearm and upper arm. A pin was inserted and super-glued into place to reinforce the joint. The idea was to help keep everything together while I cleaned up the joint and added some putty (Aves Apoxie Sculpt) to fill in the gaps and re-sculpt the elbow.

 

Turning to the metal arm, the weapon's pointed end was removed as was the part projecting from the back. The back area was smoothed over with some putty and marked with a slightly larger cross hatch pattern stamped with a square plastic rod. The idea was to re-create an elbow patch as seen on sports jackets from several years ago. There's method to my madness, trust me...

 

The pic shows the right arm fixed in place, while the left arm is just tacked on.

 

Qs and Cs are welcomed.

 

Glen

post-5109-0-86801600-1461860451.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

Moving on... The next stuff involved the creation of grater; basically Evergreen rectangular tube stock, two pieces of laminated Evergreen strip stock glued together, a bent paper clip crank, and a short piece of some unidentified plastic tubing for a handle. Put it all together and we have a cheese grater.

 

Next, some Aves putty mixed up and allowed to sit for 10-15 minutes. It was then rolled out onto wax paper to about 1mm thick and cut into a rectangular shape. I let it set another 10 minutes or so, then lifted it off the paper and place it on the lower portion of the figure. Instant apron.

 

The last bit was to cut out a disc of sheet plastic and temporarily tack it to the clawed hand. I bent the 'thumb' claw a bit and filed a notch to insert the edge of the disc's rim.

 

Once cured, I mocked up the piece to see if I needed to make any adjustments. Got lucky; non so far.

 

Anyone hazarding a guess as to where this is going?

 

Qs and Cs welcomed.

 

Glen

post-5109-0-52891600-1461942084_thumb.jpg

post-5109-0-34130400-1461942102.jpg

post-5109-0-98903900-1461942140.jpg

post-5109-0-75332500-1461942163_thumb.jpg

  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

...and speaking of pizza. The pie is made from a flattened ball of putty, trimmed to a disc that is a bit less than the diameter of the pan. The edges are then rounded and a shallow depression added to separate crust from sauce. The pepperoni is stamped in with a plastic tube that has had the interior diameter reduced to give a sharp edge.

 

There's all kinds of chef's hats out there (Google Images is your friend), but I opted for something that was more-or-less traditional - basically a big white mushroom. The hat was made from a short cylinder of putty that was slightly squashed onto the top of the head to slightly bulge the sides. After curing a bit, the lower edge was trimmed and clean up. Once hardened, the top of the hat was added. It's thicker one one side and thinner on the edge that's turned down. Quite jaunty, I think. For a big white mushroom...

 

Glen

 

 

post-5109-0-17147700-1461985547.jpg

post-5109-0-32479300-1461985562_thumb.jpg

post-5109-0-29926200-1461985574_thumb.jpg

  • Like 18
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, X!

 

To continue... I added a trio of buttons to the top of the apron. These are simple flat discs cut from plastic rod (again, Evergreen) using a straight, single-edged razor blade. I opted for the rear shank style, so there's no visible stitches. The buttons were super-glued in place.

 

The base was next. This is a 1.5 inch wood cube from Michael's or Hobby Lobby. The side are flat sanded on 9" x 11" 220 grit sandpaper followed by more sanding on 400 grit paper. This gives you a nice smooth finish. I don't sand the top or bottom - no one see the bottom and the top is covered with putty...

 

...which brings us to the 'groundwork'. Such as it is. I pinned the figure to the base using a paperclip and superglue after drilling the appropriate holes in the block and figure's foot. The next step was to mix up some putty - the previously mentioned Aves - and blend it into the figure's base and out to the edges of the block. Not sanding the top of the block gives the putty a bit more tooth to stick to it. The stones were left a bit irregular and a few dents and dings were added along with knife blade cuts to replicate cracks.

 

After a final check of the piece, the wood block was taped with blue painters tape (no sticky residue when you peel it off) and figure and floor were primed with Floquil's Gray Model Railroad Primer cut with about 20% lacquer thinner and brushed on.

 

Glen

post-5109-0-11811700-1462046175.jpg

post-5109-0-15393900-1462046186.jpg

post-5109-0-43109800-1462046209.jpg

post-5109-0-77350600-1462046226.jpg

post-5109-0-83407700-1462046240.jpg

Edited by GlenP
  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

Painting now! I started with the eye buttons - one a dark red, the other an orange brown. The back buttons were next; top to bottom: a basic green, a darker brown, brass, a dark red similar to the left eye,  and another dark brown. All stitching was done with the Aged Bone triad. In keeping with the overall color scheme, I kept everything in the basic warm colors family.

 

Thanks for the likes everyone!

 

Glen

post-5109-0-03818600-1462139654.jpg

post-5109-0-93759100-1462139664.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

How does the pizza platter attach and detach? I may have missed something...

 

 

Edit: some pizza servers will have buttons that display the logo of their establishment pinned on somewhere. That might be a fun detail.

Edited by TGP
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all!

 

TGP, currently the pizza pan is simply perched on top of the two claws and held in place by a small notch in the 'thumb'. The two claws had their tips slightly flattened to improve the (future) gluing surface, while the thumb was notched and bent a bit forward over the edge of the pan. The grater is held in place by a small bit of blue-tack. Both help me to set up the mock-up and get my visuals straight. I will give the button idea a rethink; I had thought of a name badge 'Bob', but I'm still on the fence.

 

Now to the painting. I started the smooth leather parts first using the Warm Light Browns triad. A bit of Earth Brown to further deepen the shadows and a bit of Linen White to bump the highlights. I kept the colors in the same family by using the Warm Deep Brown Triad for the burlap portions. The pics show the smooth leather parts with a base and three(ish) levels of shadows and highlights. These are combinations of base+shade or base+highlight and glazes of the Earth Brown and Linen White. At this point, only the base coat - Earth Brown - has been applied on the burlap.

 

Questions and comments are welcomed.

 

Glen

post-5109-0-17602100-1462245892.jpg

post-5109-0-60125400-1462245901.jpg

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By R2ED
      Using the long weekend to my advantage, I got a decent paint in on this guy.  Meet Gronk.
       
      BATTLE REPORT!
       

       
       
      Trying to do a more comic-style paint job, I did less wash and more highlights with bold color. 
       
      Wins:
      *  The two-toned leathers look fun and eye catching where they need to be.  
      *  Staying to as simple color-scheme as possible helped me draw this one to a close.  (Brown, Orange, Green, ivory, red)
      *  The eyes came out really good and I finally managed one of those little reflective white dots in the corner of the right eye.  
      *  Opting to not color-up every single ribbon or fold as a new color and simply stick to the simple palette helped me keep pushing forward.
      *  The shield came out great!  If you look close on the edges and near the dents, there's small orange highlights that are really faint.  Probably my favorite small thing on this model.  
       
      Misses:
      *  Not digging his green skin highlights.  Did a Green base, then ink wash, then went back over with same green, then brought up by adding white. Placement of the highlights is off as well as not understanding light.  Crux for me. 
      *  Metal sword over all has a good look to it.  Can't seem to use the Vallejo Metals for edge highlighting.  Too runny.  Need to swap to regular metal paints and use edge of brush.  Love the Metals, but they are so thin and spread so quickly. 
      *  Struggled with doing boots.  I want to darken them, but using black just seems too easy.  When they are super dark, I can't figure out how to bring the color up.  Lame.
      *  On the dino skull on his shoulder something bad happened.  I went over it with bone color like 3 times to make sure it was thick enough.  Then did a wash to bring out the dips and dirty it up a little, but I guess pulled up the bone color before it dried - even though it was sitting for 15 or more minutes before I hit it.  That sucked.  Fixable, but not sure why I hate that color so much.
      *  Learning how to be 'subtle' is something I need to develop.  It's almost like I'm needing to see big swings in the color to make  my eye train to it being different, but the reality is subtle would be better.

    • By aku-chan
      Presenting the Sewer Golem (and his fishing buddy Cuttleberry) a monster from the game Twisted by Demented Games.
       
      Took a surprisingly long time to paint considering it's all washes and drybrushing, but I had fun, that's the main thing.
       
      As always, any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
    • By Evilhalfling
      So when I unpacked this Big Boi in 2017  I thought he would look really cool without wings.  but I'm it will be a lot of careful work to carve off the joins and resculpt him,  I just don't think I'm ready.  In February I did the scales for my verocthulu conversion, and thought "I could have done that better."
      So this is better.  
       
      This Dragon will be the colors or earth.   Burnt Umber base, and a hide scattered with Burnt Sienna, Tusk Ivory, and Leather Brown with ochre and NNM gold colors on the belly. 
      perhaps some cool gray or blue washes in the shadows.   The scales will be individually shaded, and the hide below staying the color of brown liner, or umber in the well lit areas. 
       
      So far its been about 4 hrs of work in sculpting, cleaning, gluing and mold line removal.
      it took 45 min just to cover him in brown liner.  He is a really big dragon, and I have no idea how long this is going to take. 
       
      but im getting a little obesessed - I don't want to schedule a meeting or go grocery shopping, I want to add more paint... 
      this feels like how I ended up with a dragon named Insomnia - who was painted almost entirely between 10pm and 7 am.   I kept waking up with new color ideas. 
      Or the DDS2 dragon who I spent 2-4 hours a day painting for a solid week, and another hour a night for the week after.  
       
      The last picture is my inspiration for the scale colors - the eyes will be much simpler than this. 
       



       


    • By GlenP
      Sea Storm is a resin female pirate bust from Altores Studios in 1/9th scale. The piece is basically the head/body, the hat, pipe, and a loop earring. I replaced the earring with copper wire. Apart from some mold trash where the coat and torso meet, there were no major issues. Primed with my dwindling supply of Floquil Railroad Colors' Gray Primer and painted with Reaper acrylics.
       
      Questions and Comments welcomed... ain't no secrets here.
       
      Glen




    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, I will share here my progression on a project I wish to do for a long time. I already know all the parts I'll be using for this diorama. Starting with the carefree 03082 Ingrid sculpted by Derek Schubert (I'm converting her as a svirfneblin prospector), accompanied by her faithful familiar the 14453 hunting cat sculpted by Sandra Garrity. They are taken as prey by a 03602 stone lurker sculpted by Kevin Williams. I will also add a 02018 bat from the familiar pack 1 hanging somewhere on the rock wall. I already worked on Ingrid. I removed the base and give her a pickaxe. I made her tool with a paperclip and a piece of scrap metal. This all-project idea started with the gemstone she’s holding in her left hand.
       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   10 Members, 1 Anonymous, 59 Guests (See full list)


×
×
  • Create New...