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When I got my Bones 2 stuff I reported the ones that were the absolute worst and they sent me replacements. The replacements were still pretty bad. I tossed a bunch (maybe 1/3) of my bones in a bin for my kids to practice painting with because they're frankly unusable for anything.

 

That said.

 

The ones that are good and usable are almost impossible to tell apart from their metal counterparts once they've been painted. I am still backing Bones III but I skipped a bit of it and will wait until I can see the blister in person before purchasing those.

 

The worst tend to be anything with fine features like human noses, open human sized hands, thin legs, hoods or other overhangs around the head, or heavily textured thin pieces.

Granted, this is all just my opinion.. and it's not meant to bash Bones so much be as a note of my observations so others might look out for things I've personally seen and felt less than thrilled about from my collection.

 

Yup agreed.  Im pretty heavy in on Bones III, but I skipped the core set and only bought the larger sized monster addons... Love bones but at this point only for the big stuff.  Metal for humanoid sized mini's...

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Wow you guys really surprised me with this much great feedback that quickly.

 

 

Did you contact Reaper about the hatchlings?

 

No, they were still functional for intended purpose. I'd just never take a close up picture of them. The red hatchlings had bodies shifted down the midline, no amount of cutting with the xacto was going to solve that. The blacks had a lot of flashing, easy enough to trim, but they were very, VERY warped. I had to cook 'em to get the bases straight and the mini to stand. The blues had no facial features at all, or teeth.. or tongues, even looking at the painted specimens on here I couldn't translate to what I had in my hand. I ended just dropping some eye-blobs "there and there". The greens were pretty good, had to do some boiling and straightening and quenching to get them to stand up, but they turned out pretty good (although, there's no teeth to speak of, so I just painted on some white lines where they should have been).

 

They turned out alright for tabletop. So I'm not displeased, just .. not excited.

 

They got the job done, and up until that point I was perfectly happy with them. Great table top minis, cheap, and suitable to the encounters.

 

But then I opened the townsfolk I ordered and started working on them.

 

And the comparison the townsfolk? Good grief, they were flawless.

 

I mean, it's like someone else had already prepped them. (On the metal townsfolk someone DID at least partially prep them as I could make out light file marks where mold lines were, all I had to do was hunt for the faint mold lines that were skipped.)

 

 

 

The ones that are good and usable are almost impossible to tell apart from their metal counterparts once they've been painted. I am still backing Bones III but I skipped a bit of it and will wait until I can see the blister in person before purchasing those.

 

I'm hoping Bones III isn't hit & miss. I pledged $739 on it! :mellow:

 

I intentionally DO NOT open minis until I am ready to paint them. I leave them boxed up, because last time I was painting (7 years ago) I got overwhelmed and quit - still haven't finished many of those. So now I'm more methodical. I worry only about the one, or three, or 16 on my desk at once. Never more than 20 though. If they stack up that deep I get depressed when I sit down.

 

 

Followup question: If a mini I've boiled, set, quenched, and PAINTED later re-warps... what are my options for re-setting it with the paint on? Is the paint water resistant after it's cured? (Using reaper MSP paint and reaper sealer)

 

Followup question #2: When doing the heating, I floated the minis in barely-boiling water for ~15-20 seconds until they were flexible. Then I bent them in to shape and ran them under cold water. (Same process I've used for fitting mouthguards for Karate for three decades). Didn't seem to affect any detail, at all. Just made them sort-of-soft&bendy enough to get them in to the shape I wanted, which I then quenched under cold running water.

 

So far they don't seem to have moved at all.

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The larger the mini, the longer the boil. You want the heat to penetrate all the way to the core. 15 - 20 seconds sounds awfully short.

Cold water isn't enough.

Get a plastic box with a good lid, fill it with cold water and plunk it in the freezer before you start boiling the minis. It should be nice and cold by the time you've straightened the minis.

Drop them in the freezing water, and if it's large minis, get it back into the freezer for a while.

 

If you have copper wire or something else bendy, it's OK to brace the parts you're trying to straighten before freezing.

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Well-stirred ice water is at 0° C. Drop some ice cubes into the water and stir it up. As long as some ice does not melt, it's as cold as it's going to get*. This is typically much faster than putting water into a freezer.

 

I prefer water to heat guns for heating prior to repositioning. Boiling water will not get hot enough to do more than soften the PVC, and it's easier to get an even heat throughout the thickness of the mini with water than with a heat gun. Heat guns can be useful for very focused heating on a small part of a mini, but I find I can get equal results with careful dunking. Boiling water is slower than pulling out a heat gun, though.

 

* We ignore super-cooling for this discussion.

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The larger the mini, the longer the boil. You want the heat to penetrate all the way to the core. 15 - 20 seconds sounds awfully short.

Cold water isn't enough.

Get a plastic box with a good lid, fill it with cold water and plunk it in the freezer before you start boiling the minis. It should be nice and cold by the time you've straightened the minis.

Drop them in the freezing water, and if it's large minis, get it back into the freezer for a while.

 

If you have copper wire or something else bendy, it's OK to brace the parts you're trying to straighten before freezing.

 

Well, these were really REALLY thin minis. Those hatchlings aren't massive by any means. 

The pathfinder young fire dragon was much thicker, got closer to 60 seconds, to get his wings and base straightened out. I'll have to check it again tonight to see if his base re-warped. It was REALLY bad, he wouldn't stand up on his own.

 

Here's a pic I snapped while working on them. I got a basic tabletop job done on them since, and pressed them in to service. (The bare ones are green now)

 

9VoLJehl.jpg

 

Thanks for the tips on the straightening process guys. I'll do the supercool thing next time, particularly if these revert to their less stable (falling over) original form.

Edited by FluidFire
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Well-stirred ice water is at 0° C. Drop some ice cubes into the water and stir it up. As long as some ice does not melt, it's as cold as it's going to get*. This is typically much faster than putting water into a freezer.

 

 

Try adding a bit of salt and you'll find that it CAN get colder... 

(Not certain if that has any effect on Bones, though, and not going to find out)

I don't typically have ice cubes available here. Not much use for them, really. If I want to cool off I go outside...

The few I make I make using plastic bags, and those bags aren't reusable, so... 

(Ice cube makers aren't all that common here, and I don't have a standing freezer where I can put a tray. So I make do with what I have)

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Well-stirred ice water is at 0° C. Drop some ice cubes into the water and stir it up. As long as some ice does not melt, it's as cold as it's going to get*. This is typically much faster than putting water into a freezer.

 

 

Try adding a bit of salt and you'll find that it CAN get colder... 

(Not certain if that has any effect on Bones, though, and not going to find out)

I don't typically have ice cubes available here. Not much use for them, really. If I want to cool off I go outside...

The few I make I make using plastic bags, and those bags aren't reusable, so... 

(Ice cube makers aren't all that common here, and I don't have a standing freezer where I can put a tray. So I make do with what I have)

 

 

Fair point. Though you can get to that lower temp with ice cubes as well. (Heat of fusion of water is 80 cal/gm. Melting ice cubes can result in water colder than the ice cubes.)

 

But not having easy access to ice does change the convenience equation.

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Try adding a bit of salt and you'll find that it CAN get colder... 

(Not certain if that has any effect on Bones, though, and not going to find out)

I imagine the salt would leave a residue.

 

 

Perhaps I should open my reserve of baby tears and test this theory?

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I love how this has devolved into at least a partial discussion on thermodynamics.

 

The thermodynamics of home-made ice cream, in fact. (Though we hadn't previously mentioned that.)

 

^_^

 

The best kind of thermodynamics in my opinion. 

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I like straightening the little figures with the hairdryer and ice water. Been successful so far and easiest for me. Haven't gone after anything bigger yet but reckon I'll boil the DDS2 type stuff.

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