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Hello! This is my first post, and I am a complete noob at painting and miniatures. My friends have finally got me started on Pathfinder after trying for awhile, and I decided I needed to paint my own figure. It's kind of snowballing and I'm getting into other stuff. 

 

Anyway, I wanted to try painting a building, and I love new technology. So I decided to try a 3D printed building to help bring more flavor to the game. I started with a test build from the company Via Ludibunda, and wasn't impressed with the scale or the paintability from the hub I chose. 

 

I now have the Winterdale 2 Tavern from printablescenery.com. Their photo they use to sell it is thus: 

 

post-15008-0-44690100-1464226508_thumb.jpg

 

It looks nice. But obviously it was done with a more realistic bent to work with WWII wargaming. I tend to focus more on the fantasy aspect, and have decided to go in the style of Final Fantasy IX buildings. Like this: 

 

post-15008-0-12345600-1464226567_thumb.png

 

I got the model yesterday from Emeraldcitymaker.com(An on demand 3D printing company), and it turns out I'm missing a piece. The straw roof over the stable wasn't included with the packet I bought from printablescenery and am waiting for them to send it. In the meantime, I started with planning out the inside. 

 

post-15008-0-83573100-1464226630_thumb.jpg

 

This is the model put together with my Anirion figure. The yellow building on the right is the demo building I printed and painted from Via Ludibunda. I learned a lot doing it. PLA plastic soaks up paint like nobodys business. I had to do almost 5 coats of yellow to make the yellow stick. You absolutely do not want to put a light coating over a dark one, or you'll be painting for DAYS. Also, the size of the model is probably 25mm instead of 28mm, which means the figures look too large in it. 

 

post-15008-0-66156700-1464226771_thumb.jpg

post-15008-0-59508100-1464226774_thumb.jpg

 

The inside of the Tavern is the right size for the accessories I bought. So I figured I could go ahead and paint it and bring it to one of my friends' pathfinder nights later in the next couple weeks. 

 

post-15008-0-86198100-1464226839_thumb.jpg

 

...Which brings us to the current state. I love the red shingles, but I'm afraid to add a wash now because I don't want to darken the bright red color. I dislike the work I did on the flagstone bottom. I followed that excellent flagstone styrofoam guide on this site, but the principals of PLA 3D print worked against me. 

 

Because a 3D printed object is done in layers, those layers are present on the model. Whenever you do a wash, the wash goes inbetween the layers and sticks out. This model is printed in such a way to minimize the effect, but when I tried to wash the stones they just soaked it up and made the ridges more visible. 

 

Hints and tricks are greatly appreciated. I was hoping someone could help me "fix" the stones to make them a little less "standoutish." I was thinking of just doing a black wash with MSP black to tone down the brighter colors a bit, but am worried about the ridges showing up again. I have been kind of hurrying with it too because I wanted to get it game ready in case they decided to do game night soon.

 

Any other general tips would be appreciated too. 

Edited by Manateedream
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For the roof, go ahead and give it a wash. You can use the same red you originally used to bring the highlights back up with a quick drybrush or detailing.

 

I am not familiar with which flagstone styrofoam guide you speak, but I am familiar with the nasty layers 3D printing can leave. I might recommend using a sponge to break up the layers with a more prominent pattern. Dab your mid range and lighter colors on with a sponge, instead of regular brushing. That will create a stone like look that will hopefully draw the eye away from the layers.

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Did you prime before painting? I think that might help with both the "sucks up paint" issue and the "layers" issue, but I have no experience with painting 3D printed items, so I am merely speculating.

 

I did, I used my favorite which is the Rustoleum Painters Touch 2X primer. It is amazing, and seemed to work really well. I complained a lot in my original post, but painting this particular model was a lot easier than that stupid yellow one. I think it starting out as white instead of brown for the PLA helped make it easier to paint the layers on it. But even with the priming from my preferred brand, the ridge issue is still present. 

 

 

For the roof, go ahead and give it a wash. You can use the same red you originally used to bring the highlights back up with a quick drybrush or detailing.

 

I am not familiar with which flagstone styrofoam guide you speak, but I am familiar with the nasty layers 3D printing can leave. I might recommend using a sponge to break up the layers with a more prominent pattern. Dab your mid range and lighter colors on with a sponge, instead of regular brushing. That will create a stone like look that will hopefully draw the eye away from the layers.

 

I'll wash it and do the highlighting tomorrow then. I don't know if I should use brown or black, might go with brown. This was the guide I was trying to use for the stones: https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/19and it helped to start, until I tried to drybrush. The ridges became way too obvious. I like the idea of using a sponge, I might be able to just lightly sponge over them with black to bring out the part I wanted more. Then wash it and then highlight. 

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I've got a WIP for some printed figures, and I will absolutely be avoiding any wash. Instead, I will paint on any shadowy areas, which I'm hoping will help hide the layers. I've got some terrain to print as well, but haven't found the time yet.

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That looks really good already. How much did the print cost you, say i comparison to a similar sized Resin cast or an MDF house? The good thing is, even though you have some issues with the layers now, when the technology has advanced in say five years you still have the files and can print an updated, super smooth version :).

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That looks really good already. How much did the print cost you, say i comparison to a similar sized Resin cast or an MDF house? The good thing is, even though you have some issues with the layers now, when the technology has advanced in say five years you still have the files and can print an updated, super smooth version :).

 

It isn't cheap. I think that because they are designed to be printed on your "own" home printer, it's supposed to cost less. I had to buy the plan for 15$, and then the production of the majority parts cost 91$. That was the best price through 3D hubs, everyone had a different one. Some of the hubs cost easily twice as much! I am still missing one roof so can safely upgrade the cost of it to over 100$. 

 

I don't know how much the PLA loops cost, it might be cheaper in a long term planning kind of way to own your own printer and then print these out. I don't have that kind of money and have to pay for the use of an industrial printer. The guy who made it at Emerald City Maker was very nice, he kept me updated and even did a time lapse of the roof being printed.

 

After I get back from work today I'm going to try washing the roof, and then sponging the bricks below a bit with black or concrete to make them a little more uniform. Then I might wash that too. 

 

Inspection of the roof today shows that while the plastic is drinking in the paint, it creates a nice aging effect on the roof. Some of the shingles are white and look a little weathered. 

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I saw at one point a video clip promoting a 3d filiment for sculptors. You could print your blank and then smooth the strata by brushing it with what I assumed was acetone. Then they carved in it. Pretty cool stuff

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Looks great to me.  
 â€‹

Couple questions about 3d printing.

 

I have noticed with purchasing some 3d printed accessories.  You can see the lines of each layer and painting them has been troublesome as it acts like a sponge.

Is this an issue?

 â€‹If not what model printer did you use to achieve that? 

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Looks great to me.  

 â€‹

Couple questions about 3d printing.

 

I have noticed with purchasing some 3d printed accessories.  You can see the lines of each layer and painting them has been troublesome as it acts like a sponge.

Is this an issue?

 â€‹If not what model printer did you use to achieve that?

 

I don't know what the printer name is, I paid a company to print it out for me. They have an expensive industrial sized printer that made it go faster. Due to the way the model is designed, the lines are minimized. But any smooth surface left on the model you can see the lines. It's especially visible in pillar shapes and the wood support posts.

 

It absolutely does drink in the paint. It takes multiple coatings for a light coating to show up properly, darker coatings will usually be fine with just one coat.

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Looks great to me.

​

Couple questions about 3d printing.

 

I have noticed with purchasing some 3d printed accessories. You can see the lines of each layer and painting them has been troublesome as it acts like a sponge.

Is this an issue?

 

​If not what model printer did you use to achieve that?

Just to chime in, on the figures I've painted, I started with a thick automotive filler spray primer. That did fill in the lines a little bit, but still noticeable. But it did make them pretty easy to take paint.

 

The terrain I've done, I believe I have done both with and without primer. But then I used craft paint, the cheap big bottles, and lathered it on pretty generously. It didn't have much problems taking paint, unless I thinned it quite a bit.

 

In case my info is useful, mine is all PLA from a Dremel printer.

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