Define "Tabletop"

[Darkmeer]

 

 

Yes, it is 7 days.  All the goblin challenges will be 7.

 

Wait - what?

 

I thought goblin numbering went from 20 to 20?  I'm so confused right now. 

 

No, it's goblin math that's 20.

 

Goblin challenges are 7.

 

[snooty British University professor accent] Do try to keep up. [/snooty British University professor accent]

 

I also now believe I've been overestimating what tabletop quality should be.

 

The very first mini I've ever painted was certainly tabletop quality, but now I don't think my brain will allow me to paint that basically. I even want my unnamed peasants to look impressive.

 

[furiously notes the challenges in the notebook are seven.]

 

That was the last step, I know all the goblin maths now!

[CashWiley]

I'd say just a quick job, whatever your skill level is determines what that means. For beginners, it could mean just putting colors on a mini at all. But then there's the 'tabletop' that someone like Aaron Lovejoy can pump out that beats most of our best work.

 

For me, it's base/wash/highlight: https://cashwiley.com/2015/11/05/imperial-assault-stormtroopers-and-officer/

 

Sometimes this gets away from me, woops: https://cashwiley.com/2015/10/31/kingdom-death-monster-zachary/(Yes I've used him as a game piece, but he ded)

[Foxden Racing]

At least when it's a brush in my hand, "tabletop quality" means two things:

 

1) It has to be good enough that I don't put it on the wall of shame...if I'm embarrassed to let other people see it, then it's not good enough for the tabletop.

 

2) It has to be "not competition quality" enough that I'm ok with the idea of it being handled, knocked over, send tumbling to enthusiastic cries of 'Sploot!', bounced around in an ArmyTransport, and otherwise abused on the regular.

 

Or in other words: Good enough I don't want to hide it, but bad enough that I don't have a driving obsession to keep it pristine.

Edited June 2, 2016 by Foxden Racing

[ecs05norway]

Hmmm. For me... I usually try to get a basecoat, at least some drybrushing, and a little detail work.

 

I started working on layering recently because I'm getting into Infinity and back into Malifaux, and I feel the minis deserve the effort. So there I go basecoat, midtone, highlight, maybe higher highlight, and a wash.

 

My primary definition is "I wouldn't feel embarassed to set this army down across from someone like Froggy, but I'm not entering it into any painting contests, either.".

[Jokemeister]

Sometimes this gets away from me, woops: https://cashwiley.com/2015/10/31/kingdom-death-monster-zachary/(Yes I've used him as a game piece, but he ded)

 

Given what I've heard about KDM, wouldn't it only be noteworthy if he survived? 

 

Also - great job!

[Sergeant_Crunch]

 

This is easy!!  

 

As any true KODT fan is aware, there are three basic levels of painting standard: 

 

Slop & Go: Paint is blobbed on the figure, possibly with a Q-tip. The primer is covered and thats about all we can say. 

 

Tabletop Quality: A normal painted mini with discernible features, several colors in more or less discrete areas, etc. 

 

Museum Quality: A VERY detailed paint job. The kind of paint job that, if it were roughly handled at the table by some slob who was clueless about the effort that was put into it, you would reach across the table and punch them in the face. 

 

There you have it. 

I painted a figure with a q-tip once, just to see if it could be done.  Obviously wasn't my best work, but it wasn't all that bad either.  There's a post with it around here somewhere...

 

OK, wow, I really had to dig in the archives to find this one.  http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/18141-that-looks-like-crap/?hl=cotton

[Rob Dean]

OK, wow, I really had to dig in the archives to find this one.  http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/18141-that-looks-like-crap/?hl=cotton

As a wargamer, I've seen a lot worse fielded by gamers using brushes.

[kristof65]

My definition of Tabletop has always been "I'm happy with it at about 2-3 feet away." 

 

My "Tabletop Quality" that I painted 20 years ago barely qualify for that anymore, as I've gotten better. 

[Heisler]

My definition of Tabletop has always been "I'm happy with it at about 2-3 feet away." 

 

My "Tabletop Quality" that I painted 20 years ago barely qualify for that anymore, as I've gotten better. 

 

This is where I sit as well. But I still have some variations to the them;

15mm Minis are easier and faster to do tabletop work on.

28mm Army tabletop is different from my 28mm Skirmish tabletop. I define army as anything requiring 100+ miniatures typically deployed in ranks; ancients, horse and musket periods in particular. Skirmish is anything less than 100 miniatures that allows me more time to paint to a higher standard.

[Cranky Dog]

 

My definition of Tabletop has always been "I'm happy with it at about 2-3 feet away." 

 

My "Tabletop Quality" that I painted 20 years ago barely qualify for that anymore, as I've gotten better. 

 

This is where I sit as well. But I still have some variations to the them;

15mm Minis are easier and faster to do tabletop work on.

28mm Army tabletop is different from my 28mm Skirmish tabletop. I define army as anything requiring 100+ miniatures typically deployed in ranks; ancients, horse and musket periods in particular. Skirmish is anything less than 100 miniatures that allows me more time to paint to a higher standard.

 

Good point on scale difference.

 

Due to the size of detail, different scales will have different expectations as to what's "tabletop quality".

 

A 56mm scale miniature (or larger) almost asks to be a step above tabletop quality or it will look like a half-elfed job. While 10-15mm minis will show far less perceivable differences between tabletop and competition level.

Edited June 3, 2016 by Cranky Dog

[Sylverthorne]

My definition of 'table top quality' is, 'am I willing to let other people see it?'.

I don't base anything, though; closest I get is a coat of flat black or brown to blend the bits in. If it's a Bones mini, maybe some dry-brushing to bring up the rocks or something. But I don't base my minis.

 

... although, this thing with the q-tips. I might have to try that for gits and shiggles. Y'know. Because fun. ^^;

[Sergeant_Crunch]

My definition of 'table top quality' is, 'am I willing to let other people see it?'.

I don't base anything, though; closest I get is a coat of flat black or brown to blend the bits in. If it's a Bones mini, maybe some dry-brushing to bring up the rocks or something. But I don't base my minis.

 

... although, this thing with the q-tips. I might have to try that for gits and shiggles. Y'know. Because fun. ^^;

It was actually a pretty interesting experience. Not one I care to repeat, but a challenge nonetheless.

[kristof65]

 

My definition of 'table top quality' is, 'am I willing to let other people see it?'.

I don't base anything, though; closest I get is a coat of flat black or brown to blend the bits in. If it's a Bones mini, maybe some dry-brushing to bring up the rocks or something. But I don't base my minis.

 

... although, this thing with the q-tips. I might have to try that for gits and shiggles. Y'know. Because fun. ^^;

It was actually a pretty interesting experience. Not one I care to repeat, but a challenge nonetheless.

 

That was my experience with doing the Bones demon mini with Sharpies. A fun challenge, but not one I want to repeat.

[Bane Of Humanity]

When it looks good at arms length?....

[skippen]

A local painter friend here does tabletop excellently.  His are great, but his main definition of them is 1 hour per figure.  However, he has gotten speed painting down to an art that his hour is far better spent than mine.