Jump to content

Jay

adventures in glue - Bondic

Recommended Posts

Good evening fellow paint-with-a-#0-brush-ians,

 

I recently picked up a new kind of glue and I thought I would pass along my thoughts.

"What's that? A new glue?" you say?  Yes Virginia, this glue remains in a gel like state

until you cure it by shining an ultraviolent  ultraviolet light on it.

 

After having many exciting gluing sessions with liquid superglue and the inevitable swearing

and tearing off of flesh that entails I searched for a viable alternative. I could apply the glue,

position things as I wanted them at my leisure, use a "third hand" to hold them, then shine

the light on them to "cement" things as I wanted them.

 

It works, and it doesn't. It does all those things well. The problem is that the light cannot shine

through opaque metal and plastic so the glue inside the joint remains uncured. The glue joint

is not strong.

 

There is some good news though. This stuff is very clear and makes wonderful clear ice for those winter

themed dioramas you've been making for Santa.

 

Here's what you get in the package:

post-5131-0-40914000-1464749868_thumb.jpg

 

You unscrew the cap from the black tube and apply the gel.

Then shine the light of hardening upon it:

post-5131-0-80661600-1464749878_thumb.jpg

 

The UV flashlight is the handy weird thing you see on the left side in the first image.

You squeeze and hold it for a four to five seconds to cure the glue.

 

If you've had better luck with this stuff please let me know how you did it?
 

Thanks,

Jay

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I'm having flashbacks to getting fillings at the dentist, lol...

 

I'm guessing that this stuff would only be good for nice flat joins, and smaller ones at that...  The only thing that I could think of would be to make sure you rotate the light completely around the join to make sure the light gets it from all angles. On a flat join, the light should be able to reflect off the metal and get to the glue in the center, but if it's in an arm socket or something, you're not going to get enough light in there to cure it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice review! I've seen this before and its been on my wishlist for quite some time now. I'd seen in other reviews that it works better on plastic than metal.

 

It also gives me flashbacks of the dentists office. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Gadgetman!
      This looks like an interesting product forgluing together minis with extra small parts...
       
       
    • By Cyradis
      My box of figures from DSM for their Stephanie Law kickstarter came in. They're gorgeous. 
       
      Many of them are in multiple pieces and need assemble. These are too pretty for me to half-donkey assembly. 
       
      I have classic super glue. I have green stuff. What are your preferred methods to attach arms and whatnot so there aren't gaps and whatnot? How do you avoid slopping the superglue around swiftly before it hardens? Toothpicks perhaps? 
       
      Some of these joints are very fine, so I don't think I can really pin them. They aren't heavy, so that has to help, and they do have knobs/sockets in most cases. I'd really like to make sure that gaps are sealed, and things like that, so they appear smooth. If they're fragile, that's not the end of the world, since these are unlikely to be used for tabletop purposes. 
       
      This pack is all pewter, although I have a Kraken of Bones material that will need some guidance too. I generally have stayed away from assembly type figures in the past. Time to branch out! 
       
      Help, pretty please? 
    • By Arc 724
      I'm thinking of purchasing a Hot Glue Gun and wanted to know if anyone had recommendations and why you like a particular one. 
       
      Thank you!
      ~Devin
       
    • By Pingo
      Just checking.  I am soon to assemble my first small-scale multipart resin miniatures, the sort with a number of possibly fiddly bits (Eyeballing them quickly, it looks like things like arms were fairly well-designed, with integral pin/pegs and corresponding shoulder holes already provided).
       
      I have assembled great slabs o' resin  before, but this is the first delicate resin I've had to glue.  On the whole I favor epoxy as glue, but would cyanoacrylate glue be a better choice for little minis?  Any tips?
       
      The figures are more or less Egyptian-style cat people ("The Republic of Khaliman") from a French skirmish game called "Alkemy", if that makes a difference.  Lots of thin little tails and arms.
    • By cthulhu
      I've been using the Loctite professional cyanoacrylate (superglue) for Bones.
       
      But, one thing I've always liked about toluene based model cement and the plastics it works with is the solid weld you get when it lightly melts the surface of the plastics. With proper pressure and fitting the melted surface can very neatly eliminate any join line.
       
      With superglue and Bones I can come close to the same effect, but I was wondering if PVC solvent cement would take it up to the next level similar to model cement.
       
      Has anyone tried using PVC solvent cement, such as the Oatey solvent cement used for PVC pipes? My biggest concern is that it would be too harsh for the Bones PVC and melt too much.
       
      Oatey PVC Cement Experiment:
       
      Components:
       
      4 x sprues from Bones rats
      1 x can of Oatey PVC cement - regular
      1 x toothpick
       

       
      Application:
       
      Application was pretty easy, and I used the applicator brush from the can. I simply raised it up and brought the component to the brush above the can.
       

       
      Attachment 1, End Attachment:
       
      I decided to try two combinations of attachment. The first is with a small part of the sprue combined at the back.
       

       
      Closeup: Notice there is a little roughness. My first attempt I went too light with the glue and it didn't melt enough of the surface to form a good bond.
       

       
      Attachment 2, Center Attachment:
       
      My second test is attached at the back in the middle. I aligned the center marks, and applied glue between the left and right marks.
       

       
      Closeup:
       

       
      I wanted to add a little more glue at the joint, so I applied with a toothpick:
       

       
      Cure Time:
       
      Per the Oatey instructions the bond is dry to handle in fifteen minutes, but requires a two hour cure time before placing a pipe under pressure. Accordingly, I'll wait the two hour period before testing the bond.
       
      Post Cure Appearance:
       
      I forgot to take a picture after curing. However, most of the glue had evaporated leaving the joint solid. You can briefly see the appearance in the flexibility/center attachment test video.
       
      Bond Test 1, End Attachment:
       
      It didn't take much force to separate the pieces. There were two factors that could have impacted this. I attempted to bond this piece first, and when I didn't apply enough, I simply applied more. I should have probably removed the covering glue and reapplied directly to cause a greater melt between the pieces. You can see in the post test image that after separation much of the "Reaper" text is still visible, so there wasn't a lot of melt.
       

       
      Bond Test 2, Center Flexibility and Attachment:
       
      Flexibility appears good without any cracking or other impedance. As for strength, this bond was much stronger than the first as it didn't suffer from re-application.
       

       
      Post Test Appearance:
       
      Test 1, end connected:
       

       
      Test 2, Center Connected: 
       

       
      Overall:
       
      I think the bond strength would be higher if I lightly sanded the areas to bond, allowing the solvents to penetrate deeper into the surface. The acetone present in the Oatey formula didn't create the melt I feared.
       
      I will retest now with Cyanoacrylate and do the same strength tests, although even if the Cyanoacrylate is stronger I still prefer this method of bonding as it is more permanent. As the Cyanoacrylate ages it will weaken and separate, and I don't believe a solvent weld will suffer the same fate.
  • Who's Online   38 Members, 2 Anonymous, 370 Guests (See full list)

×