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My box of figures from DSM for their Stephanie Law kickstarter came in. They're gorgeous.
Many of them are in multiple pieces and need assemble. These are too pretty for me to half-donkey assembly.
I have classic super glue. I have green stuff. What are your preferred methods to attach arms and whatnot so there aren't gaps and whatnot? How do you avoid slopping the superglue around swiftly before it hardens? Toothpicks perhaps?
Some of these joints are very fine, so I don't think I can really pin them. They aren't heavy, so that has to help, and they do have knobs/sockets in most cases. I'd really like to make sure that gaps are sealed, and things like that, so they appear smooth. If they're fragile, that's not the end of the world, since these are unlikely to be used for tabletop purposes.
This pack is all pewter, although I have a Kraken of Bones material that will need some guidance too. I generally have stayed away from assembly type figures in the past. Time to branch out!
Help, pretty please?
Just checking. I am soon to assemble my first small-scale multipart resin miniatures, the sort with a number of possibly fiddly bits (Eyeballing them quickly, it looks like things like arms were fairly well-designed, with integral pin/pegs and corresponding shoulder holes already provided).
I have assembled great slabs o' resin before, but this is the first delicate resin I've had to glue. On the whole I favor epoxy as glue, but would cyanoacrylate glue be a better choice for little minis? Any tips?
The figures are more or less Egyptian-style cat people ("The Republic of Khaliman") from a French skirmish game called "Alkemy", if that makes a difference. Lots of thin little tails and arms.
I've been using the Loctite professional cyanoacrylate (superglue) for Bones.
But, one thing I've always liked about toluene based model cement and the plastics it works with is the solid weld you get when it lightly melts the surface of the plastics. With proper pressure and fitting the melted surface can very neatly eliminate any join line.
With superglue and Bones I can come close to the same effect, but I was wondering if PVC solvent cement would take it up to the next level similar to model cement.
Has anyone tried using PVC solvent cement, such as the Oatey solvent cement used for PVC pipes? My biggest concern is that it would be too harsh for the Bones PVC and melt too much.
Oatey PVC Cement Experiment:
4 x sprues from Bones rats
1 x can of Oatey PVC cement - regular
1 x toothpick
Application was pretty easy, and I used the applicator brush from the can. I simply raised it up and brought the component to the brush above the can.
Attachment 1, End Attachment:
I decided to try two combinations of attachment. The first is with a small part of the sprue combined at the back.
Closeup: Notice there is a little roughness. My first attempt I went too light with the glue and it didn't melt enough of the surface to form a good bond.
Attachment 2, Center Attachment:
My second test is attached at the back in the middle. I aligned the center marks, and applied glue between the left and right marks.
I wanted to add a little more glue at the joint, so I applied with a toothpick:
Per the Oatey instructions the bond is dry to handle in fifteen minutes, but requires a two hour cure time before placing a pipe under pressure. Accordingly, I'll wait the two hour period before testing the bond.
Post Cure Appearance:
I forgot to take a picture after curing. However, most of the glue had evaporated leaving the joint solid. You can briefly see the appearance in the flexibility/center attachment test video.
Bond Test 1, End Attachment:
It didn't take much force to separate the pieces. There were two factors that could have impacted this. I attempted to bond this piece first, and when I didn't apply enough, I simply applied more. I should have probably removed the covering glue and reapplied directly to cause a greater melt between the pieces. You can see in the post test image that after separation much of the "Reaper" text is still visible, so there wasn't a lot of melt.
Bond Test 2, Center Flexibility and Attachment:
Flexibility appears good without any cracking or other impedance. As for strength, this bond was much stronger than the first as it didn't suffer from re-application.
Post Test Appearance:
Test 1, end connected:
Test 2, Center Connected:
I think the bond strength would be higher if I lightly sanded the areas to bond, allowing the solvents to penetrate deeper into the surface. The acetone present in the Oatey formula didn't create the melt I feared.
I will retest now with Cyanoacrylate and do the same strength tests, although even if the Cyanoacrylate is stronger I still prefer this method of bonding as it is more permanent. As the Cyanoacrylate ages it will weaken and separate, and I don't believe a solvent weld will suffer the same fate.
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