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Ten of the 23 minis I’ve painted since my post in March.
Monsters = tabletop
Humanoids = above tabletop
Sinisthreax (14634) is an ultra-complicated sculpt. He’s a noctiny (5e kobold press) recurring villain in my dnd game. You’ll note one eye is normal along with that side of his face.
Silas (03010) the human cleric I wanted to dingy up with blood spatter. I imagine his name is Bret and he does not appreciate being called a heal-bot.
The Dragonborn (Wizkids), half-orc (red box games) and deep gnome (Bones) are all new players in my dnd game which has grown from 3 players to 7 in rapid order.
Narbaz is a tiefling from Red Box Games and I like the OSL I got from below, but not from the staff. I really just got sick of it and called it done.
Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one. I’ve shoes away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon.
In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon... oops!
I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown). I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green.
For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown.
Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base. I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it.
in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes.
Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend. That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!!
Thanks for looking.
By Al Capwn
I don't have a blog, and I am not veteran or post enough content to justify making one - so while these musings may be better served in that format, I will leave it here for anyone who is interested to view and chime in. It just so happens that my best friend happens to work at Rustoleum as a colorist; so lately I have been picking his brain since he has an extensive knowledge about pigments, paint make up, and the chemical intricacies therein.
As I have delved further and further into the hobby, I have been looking more into the deep subjects of color theory and how paint is made/composed. After reading James Gurney's Color and Light, as well as Michael Wilcox's Blue & Yellow Don't Make Green, I was really intrigued about what exactly paint is and how exactly color interactions work. Now I am guilty as the next person in owning WAY too many paints - not to say anything about minis!
While color mixing may seem irrelevant to some, understanding how paints function can help even those of us who own a complete gamut of convenience mixed colors. This post is about exploring more of the technical and "scientific" aspects of paint and color theory to hopefully assist others in understanding the what and why of paint.
Rethinking Paint Colors - Subtractive Color:
Up until recently, I have always viewed the primary colors as Yellow, Red and Blue, and with those you can mix secondary colors; Green, Orange, and Purple. While this is technically true after a fashion, the difficulty lies with pigments themselves. Pigments do not actually *contain* color. Instead, they absorb most of the light spectrum *except* a specific wavelength of color. As Michael Wilcox states, "Of all the pigments available to the painter, none can be described as pure in hue. There is simply no such thing as a pure red, yellow or blue paint." That means chemically, there isn't a paint pigment out there that returns a pure Red - unlike in say digital art where a specifically purely calibrated hue can be made, paint is limited by the properties of the physical pigments themselves.
As Michael Wilcox theorizes with a colour bias wheel (bottom-right), primary pigments almost certainly lean towards secondaries. This follows the concept of the Munsell Wheel (bottom-left). You may have heard of a split-complimentary color palette, and this is the reason why. Artistically, these have been described as "Warm" and "Cool" versions of the primaries, but scientifically, they are colors that absorb or reflect more of a particular wavelength. There are Violet-Reds (Cool Reds, often called "Crimson") and Orange-Reds (or Warm Reds, that lean more towards Orange), Violet-Blues and Green-Blues, and Orange-Yellows and Green-Yellows.
One the concepts to understand when mixing paints is that you are not creating a color, but rather you are effectively destroying colors and what remains is what is returned to the eye. Referencing the above color bias wheel, if you were to mix a Violet-Blue and a Violet-Red together, both containing pigment(s) that return a great deal of Violet wavelength, the little remaining Blue/Orange and Red/Green wavelengths in each pigment would cancel each other out, leaving the Violet behind. This would yield a more saturated or more pure hue of Violet. Conversely, mixing a Green-Blue and a Orange-Red ("Warm" Red) would be a very desaturated Violet, with more of a gray tone.
Keep in mind that this doesn't make a color "bad"; desatured tones by including more complimentary colors is a very useful tool! In fact, for making shadows, using a great deal of complimentary colors to desaturate is a great technique. The problem is when these colors come about unexpectedly; after all, you can have a very "intense" Red and a very "intense" Blue, but mixing them may not produce a very intense Violet if they are "moving away" from each other.
Now that is all being said, it is time to forget it...sort of. RGB is based upon the concept of Additive Mixing, or how colored light interacts. With additive mixing, fully saturated Red/Green/Blue light will produce White light. However, in paint pigments, it should be pretty obvious that mixing pigment primaries of Red/Yellow (or Green)/Blue together will not yield White. This is due to Subtractive Mixing, where pigments effectively destroy each other ala Thunderdome in Mad Max, and only the survivors reflect light back.
A more modern approach to color theory and pigments is CMYK or Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and "Key" (or commonly known, Black). Adding these colors into the standard primaries gives us the "Yurmby" wheel. If you have looked at a color printer, for example, the colors used are NOT Blue/Red/Yellow, but rather Cyan/Magenta/Yellow. This is because due to the subtractive nature of pigment/ink mixing. These colors present a larger printable gamut (i.e. range) of color; for example, without White, it is difficult to produce a Pink tone with Red vs Magenta. A thin Magenta will read more Pink than a thin Red.
Printers do not use White ink and instead leverage the paper for white, effectively printers are printing in an underpainting style. However, we as artists DO use White pigments and this makes things a bit more complicated as we do work with Tints (White) and Shades (Black).
Like most science, the direct answer regarding an accurate color wheel is: it is complicated. For observable light, there is a bit more consistency and repeatability. However, when working with "tiny wavelength absorbing/reflecting mirrors" of pigments, things become a bit more complex. Additionally, there are other aspects that that go beyond the basics, such as the effect of specular and perception of color. It gets really heady when you start dipping into Kubelka-Monk Theory and K/S.
Most paint is made up of 3 parts:
Pigment - particles that absorb and reflect certain wavelengths of light.
Binder - The 'medium' or 'glue' which holds the pigment in suspension and forms a film. For acrylic paint, this is the actual acrylic part.
Solvent - The liquid that allows paint to be viscous; as it dries, it allows the binder and pigment to harden forming the film. For acrylic paint, the solvent is water.
Adjusting the ratios of these can have some interesting, and sometimes disastrous effects in terms of the stability of the paint. For example, introducing too much solvent, and the binder and pigment lattice structure can break apart. This can cause "coffee staining" or splotchy spots where the bonds pull apart, leaving areas without a film at all.
The pigments in paint are held in a suspension. Like hot chocolate mix, there are tiny particles that are suspended in a liquid. Given enough time or evaporation, the liquid will leave these granules behind. If you have ever mixed a packet of Swiss Miss cocoa, you know that the mix can settle at the bottom - and that attempting to add dry powder to a liquid is more difficult than adding a liquid to a dry powder. This is another reason why mixing your paints is important because it is easy for the heavier pigments to tend to settle out of the binder/solvent solution.
Speaking of solutions, that is the main difference between paints and inks. Inks, specifically alcohol inks that use dyes, are a solution. The staining dye actually becomes homogeneous with the liquid. Just like dissolving sugar or extracting coffee/tea, there isn't any particulates that separate out. However, most dyes are not lightfast - a property that will be discussed in more detail further. Acrylic inks that use pigments are not "true" inks insomuch as they are composed just like an acrylic paint. The difference being the smaller size of the pigments and the viscosity of the binder/solvent being much thinner.
Outside of the 3 main components for paint composition, there are also some optional additives that some manufacturer's include in their paint. These can be things such as:
Extenders/retarders, which delay the setup of the paint film, allowing for more mixing to occur before drying. Thinners, which dilute the pigment to binder ratio, usually increasing translucency and viscosity - commonly this is done with water for acrylic paints. Flow Aid, which reduces the surface tension of paint, allowing it to flow more easily and level - Reaper is known for adding a bit of flow aid into their formulation. Opacifiers, which increase the opacity of a paint - usually some type of calcium or bicarbonate. Matting agents, which reduces the glossiness of acrylic medium. Fillers, which are commonly used in student or inexpensive paints to reduce cost and add mass without adding more pigment.
You can add some of these additives yourself to your favorite brand of paint to adjust the handling qualities. The most commonly added is solvent/thinner in the form of water to "thin your paints" to reduce the viscosity and lower the overall density of the paint, building up multiple thinner layers of paint films in a "layering" fashion.
So we are nearing the end of the road. This is the very last of the 163 miniatures in the Bones 4 Core set!
Last but not least! Or more accurately, Last and the largest by far!
Who am I? I am known as Millstone Shover, Barrel Drinker, Demon Rider and Camel Puncher! But I am no one when compared to you, O Gauth the Magnificent! Gauth the Golden! Gauth the Tremendous! Gauth the Unassessably Wealthy! Gauth the Mighty! Gauth the Terrible! Gauth the Stupendous! Gauth the Tyrannical! Gauth the Impenetrable! Gauth the Chiefest and Greatest of Calamities! Gauth the Does Not Fit In Standard Shelving!
Tommy Too Tall here is about 27cm / over 10 inches tall! I made him a 125mmx100mm base to keep him stable. I had some drooping woes that I have documented in my fixing Droopy The Dragon post back in November of last year.
I can categorically and firmly state that the fixes have ....worked! Gauth has been standing tall and proud these last few months with no sign of any renewed droopage. I experimented with removing the knee-brace for a while, but then he sorta slumped, so I put it back.
Painting: Black undercoat. Scalecolor Navy Blue all over. When dry, I drybrushed the green parts with Citadel Base Waaagh Flesh, Vallejo Game Color Jade Green 72.026, and Jade Green mixed with Scalecolor Hellbound Flesh SFG-16 in two steps.
The Blue parts are done in the Navy Blue drybrushed with Army Painter Crystal Blue and Vallejo Game Color Magic Blue 72.021. This was then mixed with Hellbound Flesh, with pure Hellbound Flesh on the top.
The Yellow parts are Vallejo Model Color Khaki Grey 70.880 with Citadel Layer Iyanden Yellow, with Scalecolor Hykey Yellow (a yellowy bone) on top.
Plus some small details such as eyes, tongue and teeth in other colours I do not remember which paints I used.
So now the task is done! Challenge complete! Achievement unlocked!
But the road goes ever on and on...
#7 Gauth the Dragon
Bones 4 Core set, 2019
Made in Bonesium PVC
should be available from reapermini.com some time in the future in Bones.
I loved this sculpt from the moment I saw it. I absolutely could not wait to paint it. But I was intimidated by it for a variety of reasons. I didn't like most of the color schemes I initially chose, and repainted him several times. I wanted a decent base for him (I greatly regret not rebasing Cthulhu, for example), etc. etc.
But then things just kind of came together and I painted the beastie a little bit at a time over the past few days... and I'm really happy with the outcome!
C&C appreciated -- this guy was unexpectedly challenging for me, so there's probably oppo for improvement here. :-)
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