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For the last few months since Reapercon, I've been focusing on pumping out minis to avoid the rut I got into last year. When I saw that Reaper had released the ghost sailors as metal figures, well... I knew what one of my October projects was going to be. I loved these guys as part of the Bones IV kickstarter, but I've not enjoyed painting plastic minis as much since getting back into metals at the Reapercon melt table, so I was psyched to order them and put in an order that night... Most of the rest I had from Reapercon, although I think I picked up Labella there too.
Either way, these guys painted up gorgeous and easy using my go-to one-two spirit technique! As a firm believer in spooky blue ghosts, I started by priming them white, then giving them a couple layers of Irrisen Blue from the new Pathfinder paintset... My old blue standby was from the HD line and the bottle has faded to the point of illegibility, but it was almost identical. Then once it's dry, I drybrush heavily with Linen White (pure white comes out looking starched, and bluer whites don't show on the blue, but linen is perfect) and... call it a day. Decorate the bases, maybe some pizza... 's good. That said, minis painted using this technique meet my #1 requirement for ghost minis: They're distinctive on the table!
I debated doing some OSL, but decided that it would wash the bases out, unfortunately. I like it better this way, with the bases nice and grounded, and the ghosts spooky and glowing! Lots of fun base details on these, too - 10/10 recommend picking them up if you have any sort of use for them!
Miniatures involved (not enough tags for them all): 03965: Ghost Pirate Cook, 03966: Ghost Pirate Quartermaster, 03967: Ghost Pirate Captain, 03968: Ghost Pirate Bosun, 03969: Drowned Nymph Ghost: Banshee, 03718: Ghost Bride, 03475: Labella DeMornay, Banshee, 03170: Lurien, Ghost, 14168: Gauren, Necropolis Hero, 03799: Female Wraith
03965: Ghost Pirate Cook
03966: Ghost Pirate Quartermaster
03967: Ghost Pirate Captain
03968: Ghost Pirate Bosun
03969: Drowned Nymph Ghost: Banshee
03718: Ghost Bride
03475: Labella DeMornay, Banshee
03170: Lurien, Ghost
14168: Gauren, Necropolis Hero
03799: Female Wraith
Of all of these, if I had to pick favorites... Hm... Ghost Bride and Gauren. They took the drybrushing perfectly and are super-fun figures!
Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.
Some sketches in AutoCad software.
Floor part in Invetor software.
Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.
I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.
On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.
I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.
I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.
The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.
The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.
It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.
Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.
After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.
See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.
Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.
Here are all the parts I printed for this project.
And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.
I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.
Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.
I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.
The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.
The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.
More to come soon!
Talk like a Pirate Day seems as good a day as any to start my Frostgrave: GA terrain thread. I'm making a bunch of Islands for a game I am running for two back to back conventions, Rock- Con and Gameholecon. I have a few Islands carved out of foam already and some bases for them cut from the leftover scraps of wall paneling for my basement room.
Here are my first 3 before they are based. Already populated with other things I need to photograph.
Front and back of a piece of panel scrap. This piece wasn't the right size for any of my islands that I've cut, but that's alright I need to cut a few more and a beach anyway.
The two islands I have, ready for priming and painting. There is a third island but it's not based yet. I'm currently gluging to the "brick" side of the panel so the island rest evenly on the table. Should I continue that or would it make more sense to glue to the smooth side? The intent here is to have a bunch of bridges that connect the islands. I have some docks I got off of thigiverse that should work for this but I don't have enough of the parts printed to show.
Hopefully I'll have some time to work on this this weekend. It needs to be done before the last week of October.
My name is Dom and I'm new to the world of minis. I started fiddling away with Procreate in the fall of 2017, trying to make some minis for a D&D campaign I play in. I roughed out two ghoulish-looking figures (which weren't supposed to be ghouls), grew pretty frustrated with it, and shelved the whole business for 2018. I decided to give it another go in January, and started another five for a new D&D campaign. Progress was slow but better than the first go-round, and spurred on by an opportunity to apply for a mini design talent program with a large company, I finally finished my first two minis last week!
My photographs highlighted plenty of issues I wish I'd had time to address, but the deadline for the application was upon me.
They're mottled because I was trying out different mixtures of putties, trying to figure out what suits my purposes best. I have a good bit of sculpting experience from a former job (not at this small scale) and am more used to an add-then-refine method, rather than having to get it just-so because the materials don't like being sanded or carved. Once I got some Aves Apoxie Sculpt, I became much more hopeful.
Here's Aldin Peaksplitter, a Dwarven battlerager who doesn't wear armor and likes to fight hand-to-hand, and Albrecht Glasser, a human divination wizard who masquerades as a fortune teller.
The funny bit between Aldin's left thigh and elbow is just a vent for casting purposes. I did make a mold of him because I wanted to submit photos of nice primed castings, but it hit a snag and I didn't have time to redo it before the deadline. With Albrecht you can see some copper armature in places - I thought I'd found a good way to negate some of my Procreate frustrations in the armature phase, but it went awry. Once I learned of the program I wanted to apply for, he was too far along to start over, so I made do.
I'd love to hear your thoughts.
Edit: These are 28mm or about 1/60 scale, based on the character's height. Aldin would be about 25mm tall if standing erect (he's a tall Dwarf), and Albrecht about 30mm.
I'm taking the leap and about to buy my first airbrush for mini painting and was hoping I could get some advice on what to buy. The Airbrushing: compendium has been very helpful and I've spent hours, days, what feels like years researching and I want to pull the trigger... I live in Canada and after ringing around some hobbyshops etc it seems amazon is the best bang for my buck. I have paint and access to a Campbell Hausfeld 2 Gallon Air Compressor (I will purchase another compressor in a few months once I have some more disposable income). My main concerns are does this compressor work with the airbrush listed below, do I need anything else? Heres what I've got in mind: NEO CN GRAVITY-FEED DUAL-ACTION AIRBRUSH $97.20 CAD Paasche 10-foot Nylon Braided Hose $18 CAD Airbrush Cleaner 4 Kit, Washing Tools - Glass Cleaning Pot etc $22 CAD Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner 85ml $7 CAD any advice would be appreciated
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