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Tomb Guardians Miniatures :: DragonLock Ultimate Dungeon Tiles - Magic Circle :: Thrym Project #PiSliceBy Thrym
Welcome to this Thanksgiving holiday WIP already in progress. This was my project while waiting for dinner today.
This 3D printed dungeon dressing, spell effect or future demon base is from Tomb Guardian Miniatures out of Ohio. I had to sand out some low-res ridges and some connection points but it was quick work.
I already painted the interior of the symbols and lines with bright colors. Reaper Candlelight, Reaper Runic Glow and Cavboss Coolant Green as well as Vallejo Stencil.
The stonework is Reaper Dungeon Grey, naturally.
Up next is to add the glow effect to the runes and lines and perhaps speckle and mark up the stonework with another couple of greys.
Enjoy and stay tuned.
By Jordan Peacock
Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course). I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers. He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer.
The PLA filament version of the model. This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell. Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc. This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces. (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.)
On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model. First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do. I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves. Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up. That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this.
Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit. The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects.
Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process. The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right. I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out. At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition. (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)
Well mostly scenic base. Made a town centre that will get dressed up as a market once finished. Basing material is foamex with a plastic receipt spool covered in Milliput. Painted with a mix of craft, PP and GW paints. Further tinted with a treatment of oils.
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