It caaaaame from the DDM Pit!!!!!!!- Harbinger set Skeleton (pic heavy)

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

It's me again! After my semi-successful bout with the DDM Baaz Draconian, I decided to pick out another victim subject to experiment some more techniques and paints on. Aaaand let's see what's behind Door Number Two!:

 

 

What we have here are two DDM Harbinger set Skeletons. The one on the left is for reference, while the one on the right has already been primed. Not a bad lot for what it was used for, but they completely missed the paint on the face of the latter one. Though they're interesting figures, for skeletons they look a bit too.......shiny. Sure, they could be newly stripped corpses, but what's the likelihood of that? And why would you keep perfectly good armour on such easily destroyed mooks? Let's see if we can make him look as neglected as those miniatures on your Shelf of Shame!

Edited July 7, 2016 by Pezler the Polychromatic

[Glitterwolf 202183]

UNDEAD!!!!

 

Always nice to see more of those rise to the occassion.

 

Love it.

Edited July 7, 2016 by Xherman1964

[Chaoswolf 114796]

So are you going for lots of rust?

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

So are you going for lots of rust?

I've got Citadel's Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust sitting around doing nothing, so they'll definitely be making an appearance.

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

Just a quick update on this, here's what I've done so far:

 

 

Just put on some P3 Cold Steel and placed some P3 Armour Wash upon it, put it on a bit thick to make it seem a little more dingy. Also placed some P3 Molten Bronze on the pauldron and shinguard to break it up a little bit, also a good excuse to experiment with my Citadel Nihilakh Oxide.

 

I've also bought some FolkArt Crackle Medium the other day. I've been playing with it a bit, and it holds promise. I noticed that if you don't paint over it, it doesn't crack, it merely remains clear. You also need to apply quite liberally if you want larger cracks. I put on a white basecoat, some crackle medium, and then Reaper Pure Black. It made a lot of small cracks that showed up quite clearly, so I'm interested to see how the shield will work out. I'll focus on the other parts of the skeleton only after I work on the armour.

[ub3r_n3rd 152256]

Lookin good!

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

Alright, I've made some progress tonight, while talking with knarthex and Aryanun on Hangouts, and listening to Keianna finish her Kaladrax! Here's what I've done so far:

 

 

This is the skeleton with Typhus Corrosion on it. As you can see, the little grittiness inside it makes it look grimy and muddy.  I had put a bit too much on, so I wiped some of the excess off with my finger, which actually made it look even better. It looks pretty good from here, but this is about experimenting, so I'm adding Ryza rust to it:

 

 

 

 

This is the figure with the paint drybrushed on. I started on its back, which is why it's a bit heavy on there. I think I put a bit too much everywhere else as well, but it's looking very ancient and decrepit. The grit in the Typhus Corrosion makes a perfect texture to pick up the drybrush of the Ryza Rust, which they were made for. I'll work on the bronze next, though it might wait until tomorrow. Near the end I'll line some of the edges with a fresh hit of Cold Steel.

[Chaoswolf 114796]

That's already a pretty dramatic improvement; nice work!

[Gargs 5898]

Loving the look and indeed a great improvement.  Also thanks for detailing everything you are using, its really helpful for newbs like myself!

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

Alright, I've managed to make some progress on the sword and bracer today, as well as a few touch-ups here and there:

 

 

 

 

As you can see, it didn't turn out fantastic, but it's usable. I  used P3 Blighted Gold for the hilt, and for the blade I used the P3 Cold Steel>Typhus Corrosion>Ryza Rust combo. Messed up a bit and had to touch up a few places, also used the Typhus Corrosion on the hilt as well to give it that aged look. After that I edged the sword and brim of them helm with Cold Steel, then touched up places where I used too much. One thing I'm going to have to learn is the more natural places to place the corrosion and rust on a steel weapon, but I'll figure that out as I go.

 

 After putting P3 Molten Bronze on the bracer, I slathered it with Citadel Nihilakh Oxide, but then blew on it to both dry it and to work its way downward, using my finger to take off a little bit of excess. I think it worked well, personally. One thing I learned is that after you add the Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust, it's alright to touch up with the Typhus Corrosion again to make it look a bit less uniform Next up will be......something. I haven't figured out what I'll work on yet.

[Chaoswolf 114796]

I don't think it's all that bad, it's a major improvement over what you started with.

[vegascat 5049]

Very cool so far.   I love the verdigris on the armor.  You can also make that with (or I have in any case) Vallejo Game Color Jade Green at a 10:1 ration water: paint.  I used to use it a lot for my cryx so much that I made a bottle of it.

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

Very cool so far.   I love the verdigris on the armor.  You can also make that with (or I have in any case) Vallejo Game Color Jade Green at a 10:1 ration water: paint.  I used to use it a lot for my cryx so much that I made a bottle of it.

Indeed, there are several different ways that the patina can be made. The Nihilakh Oxide works well, but might be a touch better for larger minis. We'll see how it goes.

[Glitterwolf 202183]

I don't think it's all that bad, it's a major improvement over what you started with.

 

Seconded!

[Pezler the Polychromatic 61111]

LOL I love what you're saying here: No matter how bad I'm doing, how could I possibly be worse than what WOTC did to it?