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I haven't post much since I last came to ask for some painting tips. But seeing the BONES 3 reward fulfilment dates looming soon, I have decided to practice a bit more on the loose minis I bought over the last year.

 

This is the Ghoul queen I have painted in reference to a certain free to play mobile card game franchise, even though the theme don't match at all.

 

The decorations near her are made from Milliput. Unfortunately the lighting effect from the inside of the rock didn't come out well.

 

Another thing I need a lot more practice is smooth skin texture, especially around the face. I just can't get them looking clean. Any comment and suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

 

IMG_20160717_205603%2B%25281439x1800%252

 

IMG_20160717_205646%2B%25281437x1800%252

 

IMG_20160717_205704%2B%25281441x1800%252

 

IMG_20160717_205738%2B%25281321x1658%252

 

IMG_20160717_205803%2B%25281380x1734%252

 

IMG_20160717_205638%2B%25281424x1782%252

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I think you've done very well!

 

I painted this lady a while ago & found her quite challenging - there's a lot of detail to take account of & it wasn't easy to get into all the nooks & crannies especially behind the sword. Also, it was somewhat of a nightmare cleaning up all the mold lines.

 

Her skin looks good but it may be that you need a bit more contrast by adding one or 2 highlight layers. Can you elaborate on how you painted the skin?  ::):

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Thanks for the compliments!

 

The skin colour was done with Citadel paint (the only paint I can get easily here):

 

- base coat with Macragge Blue

- 1 brush-on layer to all surface with Lothern Blue

- 1 coat of Guilliman Glaze to act as a blue paint wash

- touch up with Lothern Blue to raised surfaces like cheeks, nose, top of shoulder etc.

- dry brush of Ice Blue to the skin.

- White for the eyes,then a small amount of Gulliman Glaze around the eyes as a wash to bring the eyes socket detail back up.

 

On hindsight, I think my attempte to put highlight on with dry brush might be the reason the skin look uneven.

 

About the sword on her back: I cheated! I took a scapel blade, slipped it in between her back and the sword and cut the sword off, so I can paint them separately before gluing them back together.

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Thanks for the compliments!

 

The skin colour was done with Citadel paint (the only paint I can get easily here):

 

- base coat with Macragge Blue

- 1 brush-on layer to all surface with Lothern Blue

- 1 coat of Guilliman Glaze to act as a blue paint wash

- touch up with Lothern Blue to raised surfaces like cheeks, nose, top of shoulder etc.

- dry brush of Ice Blue to the skin.

- White for the eyes,then a small amount of Gulliman Glaze around the eyes as a wash to bring the eyes socket detail back up.

 

On hindsight, I think my attempte to put highlight on with dry brush might be the reason the skin look uneven.

 

About the sword on her back: I cheated! I took a scapel blade, slipped it in between her back and the sword and cut the sword off, so I can paint them separately before gluing them back together.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I also use Citadel paints too so hopefully I can help you out?

 

I think the issue is in the usage of the Guilliman Glaze as a wash. Although they are very fluid & may appear to be suitable for washes, Citadel glazes are actually of a different formulation. They are designed to be the final process you paint onto a mini as they work as a colour tint which unify all the colours underneath the area producing a smooth end result rather than creating shading. The good thing about these glazes is that they can help to smooth out drybrushing.

 

If I may, keeping your main colours, can I suggest:

 

1. Paint the eyes first.

2. Base coat Macragge blue avoiding the eyes etc. leave to dry

3. Shade the area using Drakenhof Nightshade wash - apply this liberally but carefully & let the ink pool in the crevices making sure to shade around the eyes but not cover the whites. Leave to dry fully.

4. Highlight/drybrush the raised surfaces with Lothern Blue as you did before making sure not to paint in the shaded crevices.

5. Highlight/drybrush the most extreme raised surfaces with Ice Blue.

6. Finally, carefully paint on the Guilliman Blue glaze to all the entire skin areas. Make sure to give it an even coverage but ensure that the glaze does not pool in any places or crevices (& avoid the eyes). After drying you should find that the glaze will have tonally brought all the transitional layers of colours together for a smoother unified finish. You can add more layers of glazes on top if you like but 1 generally does the business.

 

Note: The above may produce a darker finish than you have currently so you may want to start with Lothern Blue as your base coat & use a different colour (tonally somewhere midway between Lothern Blue & Ice Blue) for stage 4.

 

 

I hope this info is of use to you! ::):

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Thanks for the info.

 

I also use Citadel paints too so hopefully I can help you out?

 

I think the issue is in the usage of the Guilliman Glaze as a wash. Although they are very fluid & may appear to be suitable for washes, Citadel glazes are actually of a different formulation. They are designed to be the final process you paint onto a mini as they work as a colour tint which unify all the colours underneath the area producing a smooth end result rather than creating shading. The good thing about these glazes is that they can help to smooth out drybrushing.

 

If I may, keeping your main colours, can I suggest:

 

1. Paint the eyes first.

2. Base coat Macragge blue avoiding the eyes etc. leave to dry

3. Shade the area using Drakenhof Nightshade wash - apply this liberally but carefully & let the ink pool in the crevices making sure to shade around the eyes but not cover the whites. Leave to dry fully.

4. Highlight/drybrush the raised surfaces with Lothern Blue as you did before making sure not to paint in the shaded crevices.

5. Highlight/drybrush the most extreme raised surfaces with Ice Blue.

6. Finally, carefully paint on the Guilliman Blue glaze to all the entire skin areas. Make sure to give it an even coverage but ensure that the glaze does not pool in any places or crevices (& avoid the eyes). After drying you should find that the glaze will have tonally brought all the transitional layers of colours together for a smoother unified finish. You can add more layers of glazes on top if you like but 1 generally does the business.

 

Note: The above may produce a darker finish than you have currently so you may want to start with Lothern Blue as your base coat & use a different colour (tonally somewhere midway between Lothern Blue & Ice Blue) for stage 4.

 

 

I hope this info is of use to you! ::):

 

Thanks for the tips! I am not sure when I will paint another character with blue skins, but I think the order of paint you mention will be applicable to all other skin tone, so that will come in handy.

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