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GCB Paints: 77191 Hydra


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[EDIT: Split from another thread: GCB Paints: 77192 Kaladrax. I'm resurrecting this thread because I'm finally pulling the Hydra out to finish!]

 

Inspired by tonight's episode of "Marvel's Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D.", and the final week before the season finale, I settled on this mini as my next project:

 

http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/hydra/latest/77191

 

Hail Hydra!

 

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Edited by Grumpy Cave Bear
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Only a little progress this weekend, as I was helping my daughter practice for an AP history exam.

 

I did manage to trim all the mold lines off the hydra pieces. It took about 3 hours total -- is that slow? I dunno.

 

I'm de-flashing using the potato peeler method, putting an X-Acto knife blade under the flash seam and running along the length.

 

A while ago, I picked up these chisel blades that are intended for removing mold lines or unwanted seams or details from styrene models. They're made by Inter Allied Hobby Tools, apparently a Japanese company, and were rather pricey (about $15.00 each full price, plus overseas shipping, though I got these in a clearance sale). They're metal, probably steel -- I don't really read Japanese, so I can't really tell.

 

I tried them out on the hydra and have to say, they're probably one of better purchases I've made for model making. They're nice and sharp, and cut through the Bonesium material with little resistance. Since they have a different blade angle from an X-Acto knife, I can reach seams that are normally difficult to reach. And the small blade size means I can chisel out a detail without much damage to the surrounding material.

 

The blades I used the most are the 2mm circular blade and the reverse circular blade (in front), followed by the 1mm square blade. The reverse circular blade is great for removing seams from spines while preserving the curve. The circular blade, while harder to control, is good at removing seams from recessed areas. The larger square blades don't see much action, since they're best for flat surfaces.

 

I'm keeping these blades reserved for trimming Bones models only, to keep them sharp as long as possible. ...And I haven't cut myself with them yet! It must be the added control I have.

 

I had enough fun trimming mold lines that I skipped cleaning and priming the hydra, and instead spent a lot more time trimming mold lines from... let's call it project "X" for now.

 

Has anybody else found other good tools for removing Bones mold lines?

 

Looking forward, I still haven't decided what color to paint the hydra. I did an Internet search on hydra pictures, and the most common color combo is dark green with a yellowish belly (even Ray Harryhausen's version). That doesn't particularly grab me, but the hydra is supposed to be a swamp or aquatic creature. Any better ideas?

 

Also, after reading Buglip's trials with painting Tahisimat after assembly, I may delay assembly of the hydra until it's mostly painted. The heads are really close together, and I'm trying to weigh the ease of painting the heads before assembly, against the pain of hiding the seams afterwards.

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Good tools for removing bones mould lines are sanding needles of medium and fine grit. Then lightly scrape with sharp scalpel or hobby knife.

 

ETA: a blue hydra would be cool I think

Edited by ub3r_n3rd
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I just "like" bombed you...how did i miss this threa. That Kaladrax is awesome and i got some neat tips from you.

 

I bought a set of carbide tipped scrapers from Rio Rondo Enterprises that work great on bones mold lines.

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The hydra colors you could use really tell what you plan to use the hydra for. 
 

Swampy "Normal" hydra: 

Primary: Green, secondary color a dirty yellow or even a dirty brown.

Primary Brown Secondary a dead fleshtone/dirty green.

 

Pyrohydra: 

Red with yellow secondary.

Orange with red secondary.

Orange with brown secondary

Brown with Orange secondary.

 

Cryohydra:

White with blue secondary (pale blues)

Pale blue with white secondary

Dark blue with pale blue secondary

Dark blue with White secondary

White with dark blue secondary. 

 

Underground hyrda:

Purple with a pale blue-gray secondary (I think I have seen a GW hydra painted this way).

Purple with a medium-dark red secondary.

Purple and pink.

 

Truly Aquatic hydra:

Blue-green/Turquoise top, pale turquoise/blue bottom

 

 

 

There, I've given every hydra color combination I can think of, I wish you luck with the endeavors!

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Good tools for removing bones mould lines are sanding needles of medium and fine grit. Then lightly scrape with sharp scalpel or hobby knife.

ETA: a blue hydra would be cool I think

I have to pick up some of those sanding needles sometime. My practice has been mostly cutting and gluing fine sand paper to small dowels and sticks, or modifying battery-powered toothbrushes into sanding tools -- both of which are better suited to larger models.

 

I was thinking blue as well, with a teal blue-gray on top, extending to a lighter aqua green-blue on the belly, with maybe reddish hints down the throats. I don't know what I'd do with the dorsal spines, though: off-white, bright blue, or some contrasting color maybe.

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... There, I've given every hydra color combination I can think of, I wish you luck with the endeavors!

Ah, you forgot the desert hydra, colored mostly in tan and yellow ochre, with brown and black horned toad markings!

 

I did see the purple GW hydra in my web reference search. I was thinking that color, since that color can represent miasma or poison, and the classic Greek hydra is supposed to be incredibly venomous.

 

True aquatic might be the way I go, though.

Edited by Grumpy Cave Bear
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I just "like" bombed you...how did i miss this threa. That Kaladrax is awesome and i got some neat tips from you.

I bought a set of carbide tipped scrapers from Rio Rondo Enterprises that work great on bones mold lines.

Not hard to miss, really. I've only started two threads in this forum and I don't update them every day. Though I do get a momentary thrill when I log in to see 20 notifications: "Wow! Twenty people liked my latest post! Oh wait, someone new liked everything I've done so far."

 

Ah, Kaladrax. After how well that model turned out, I'm feeling pressure to knock every one of them out of the ballpark. Most are just going to be done to tabletop standards, though.

 

... And as one bear to another, how'd you pick your username and avatar?

Edited by Grumpy Cave Bear
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Krule is a play on my last name. And those that don't know me think i am grumpy..unfortunately those that know me tell everyone i am a big teddy bear (which doesn't help with my managerial position;-)). Thus KruleBear was born.

 

I googled bear avatars and i found two i liked. This one and a black and white teddy bear with a missing eye and extra patches. I may need to get Wyrd's Teddy and paint him up for an Avatar though. On a related note, I did just recieve Ax Faxtions forest guardian and rider, I plan to paint it up to represent myself and the wife...this is a very cool sculpt, now i just need to get back on the painting bandwagon.

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... There, I've given every hydra color combination I can think of, I wish you luck with the endeavors!

Ah, you forgot the desert hydra, colored mostly in tan and yellow ochre, with brown and black horned toad markings!

 

I did see the purple GW hydra in my web reference search. I was thinking that color, since that color can represent miasma or poison, and the classic Greek hydra is supposed to be incredibly venomous.

 

True aquatic might be the way I go, though.

 

D'oh! 

 

I like the True Aquatic.  It's quite nice.

 

The desert hydra in tan and yellow Ochre with the horned toad markings sounds really cool!  I may have to get a few (read: 7) hydras to do one of each scheme... Yes, that's insanity.   Yes, I still have to finish my Bones 1 before I can get any.  I also have to find an adventure or game that allows that many monsters on the field... other than D&D/Pathfinder.  ShadowRaven's Hail Hydra would be a great forest hydra...

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