Jump to content

Lunesdargent Workshop: Egyptian Dungeon Game Tiles


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Here a little updates on the kickstarter campaign :) *Just unlocked a free wall tile moment ago*

 

Here are the pieces contained in a set (50)(51) :

8 corner walls, 4 diagonal walls, 4 sliding door sockets with 4 doors, 8 walls, 4 square ground tiles, 2 square ground tiles with columns, 4 half-width ground tiles, 3 straight corridors, 1 corner corridor, 1 T-junction corridor and 1 staircase entrance + 2 female sphinx, 2 male sphinx, 1 sarcophagus, 1 large sarcophagus.

Advanced SG (2 sets or more) : + 1 floor tile.

0fb128bf7ebdc4aea80e7de54cbe9ccf_origina*T-junction missing from this picture

 

New stretch goals map :

 

e52c8a63bd62ff2a81ae17a96d19165f_origina
Link to post
Share on other sites

From the comments it is a, "This is a custom recipe in the high grade cast stone family." and from what I could find out online cast stone is a type of concrete made to look like natural stone.

So it's a poured stone, not unlike Hirst Arts made plasters, but maybe a less brittle material??

Link to post
Share on other sites

There is one thing that would sell me 100%, but you're probably not going to like it since it would mean redoing the entire thing.  That would be: walls not attached to the floor tiles.  See the Secret Weapon kickstarter and how walls are handled there.

 

I like removable walls for when they get in the way of visibility or when figures bump into walls and don't fit right (and with modern oversized "Heroic Scale" figures that happens all the time).  Or finding a secret door and then pulling the wall out, that's fun.

 

But yea keep doing what you're doing since there's already 137 people who like it that way.  :)

Edited by Jeneki
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have some questions:

 

1) If these break, do they breaking cleanly, or do they crumble? 

 

2) If they break cleanly, can they be reglued with super glue?

 

3) I would also be interested in some scale shots with Reaper miniatures, which are "heroic" scale and thus a little on the big side.  I can't tell how tall the walls are from the images.

 

4) Why the caveat about tiny surface bubbles adding to the time-worn look of the pieces?  I don't see any bubbles in the photos.

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The part that I have broken (willingly) did not crumble, the whole part broke in two or sometime 3 chunk, very easy to glue together, I did not try yet however.

 

I do not have any reaper miniatures sadly, I will get a hold of some next month.

 

Little entraped air buble can happen in the casting, I use different methods have the less amount possible but I wanted to make it clear that they can happen, , in small detail or sharp corner, but after the dirt wash I think they look really good ! (if there is too many I will scrap the part so no worries )

 

Jeneki, I could do an environement with detachable wall someday but  for this style I did not want falling wall, I think its faster to build a large dungeon the way my tiles are right now, but maybe the two can be mixed :)

sorry if me english is not so good, I worked all night on the project and english is my second language !

 

See you all soon

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By veoviscool12
      Overview
       
      I recently finished my first piece of scatter terrain! I used it as a test for a bunch of techniques I'd been learning from The Terrain Tutor YouTube channel. I used two boulders that I had cast using the Woodland Scenic rock molds (I think one was from mold C1233 and the other from C1230, but I could be mistaken) and Durham's Water Putty. I had painted them up previously for practice, and noticed that together they made a pretty nice split boulder. I had an extra 3' x 3' foam core square from my ongoing dungeon tile project, and decided to make some scatter terrain as a diversion from all the Bones V waiting to be painted.
       

      A picture of the finished piece with a Reaper goblin mini (77024) for scale.
       
      Process - Sculpting
       
      I started by peeling off one side of the foam core paper, and used a hobby knife to create a shallow slope around the center. Then, I used Liquitex Modeling Paste to create a big glob in the middle for the boulders to sit in, fill in all the cracks, and smooth out the transition from stone to foam. I deliberately let some of the paste squeeze up into the crack between the two rocks to create the impression of a smooth arc of soil that had built up over time. The paste can be mixed with paints, but due to the way I wanted to apply texture later on I decided against it. Once the paste had dried, I moved on to applying texture and painting the ground.
       

      You can see that initial soil arc here; I sculpted it a bit further to achieve a more realistic look.
       

      More sculpting and slathering to mask the edges of the rock and create the illusion that it's buried in soil.
       
       
      Process - Ground Texture and Painting
       
      The next step was to add texture and paint to the ground. I first applied a layer of Burnt Umber acrylic that had been mixed with a bit of PVA (white glue; the Elmer's stuff. I got a two pack at Dollar Tree that works fine. Don't get the school variety as it's extremely watered down and doesn't stick nearly as well). Then I drizzled on a "soil" mix I had made from: mostly fine sand, some coffee grounds, and a little cat litter. Ideally, the paint/PVA mixture should be laid on thick enough to absorb all this grit and cement it in place once it dries. I didn't apply enough of it, so as an additional measure I spritzed the whole thing with a 6:1 water/PVA mixture. This worked in sealing everything, but made the piece extremely damp and necessitated leaving it to dry overnight.
       
      After everything was dry, I put on a layer of Raw Umber to darken the soil, unify the grit, and cover up any exposed bits of white modeling paste. Once that was finished, I did a quick dry brush pass with a lightened Raw Umber to bring out the texture of the soil. With that, the ground was finished!
       
      I must admit, at this point I had what looked like a great riverbed and boulder on my hands and was tempted to do a deep pour water effect! But I quickly reigned myself in since that was not the goal of this project. Soon though, soon...
       

      The ground texture anchored in the paint. Bits of this came off at various points during the process,
      but the PVA did its job quite well, considering.
       

      The Raw Umber did a good job of tying everything together, and let bits of the Burnt umber through
      for some lighter patches.
       
       
      Process - Boulder Paint Touch-ups
       
      As much I wanted to get to the main event (flocking!), I needed to touch up the lower edge of the boulder; there was no way I could hide all of it. So I did a quick and dirty touch up with the same wet technique I used to paint them initially: a base coat of grey, and once that's dry, watered down browns, greens, and blacks to create color variations, moss, and dirt. Finally a quick homemade black wash added the final touch. I also used the black wash to mark out some rivulets that would have carved their way out from the crack and create a bit more variety in the soil. Then finally, I could move on to the most anticipated bit: the flocking!
       

      The initial stripe of grey paint across the bottom of the boulder. I wasn't too meticulous; the water
      from the next layers smoothed out the transitions between the existing paint job and the new one.
       

      An example of some of the blotches and colors I was applying. Unfortunately I don't have a picture
      that includes the black wash.
       
       
      Process - Flocking and Final Touches
       
      The flocking itself was relatively simple. I used three shades of Woodland Scenics Fine Turf:
       
      Burnt Grass - T44 (highlight) Green Grass - T45 (base) Weeds - T46 (shade)  
      First, I applied PVA glue that had been slightly watered down, just enough so it's almost a liquid but not quite. Then, I sprinkled the highlight into the more open areas where the grass would be drier, the shade into wetter and more covered spots, so near the rock and crack, and then covered everything with a healthy dose of the base. I didn't use a lot of the highlight because I was worried I'd overdo it, but I could have used more as the base really takes over if you let it. I tapped off the excess flocking that hadn't been absorbed by the PVA before using a tiny bit of Coarse Turf (Medium Green - T64) to create a little bush in one side of the crack, and one out in the open. I used a toothpick to drop a bit of regular PVA where I wanted the bush to go, and then just stuck it in place. After about an hour elapsed, I sealed the whole thing by spraying it with the 6:1 water/PVA mixture and leaving it to dry overnight.
       
      The final touch was to use black paint to seal the white edges of the foam core.  I'm very pleased with the end result, and it's solid as a rock. This will certainly be able to stand up to some abuse without losing any flocking or texture. Thanks for reading this far!
       

      Two more glamor shots of the finished piece; this is the first one. You can just spot the bush peeking out
      of the crack in the middle, and some cat litter "stones" in the field.
       

      Here's the other side, with a bush on the left and a "wetter" appearance around the crack. Some of the
      lighter Burnt Umber is also peeking through at the front left edge.
    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone! Halloween is getting close... now's a good time to start chewing garlic. Here's my 77137, Sarcophagus sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hey everyone, here is another model on which I practiced marble painting as an alternative to regular stone. This 77634, Graveyard Statue was sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Since even cultists love fashion, I went with purple marble on this one. This is the Bones version of the 77139, Altar of Evil sculpted by Bob Olley.
       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hey everyone, here's a two-piece model I painted for my current D&D campaign. Strongly attached to the Halloween theme 77540, Large Sarcophagus sculpted by Kevin Williams. A place of eternal rest, unless there are ghouls around.
       

       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   11 Members, 1 Anonymous, 38 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...