re-building my paint set; Reaper/Vallejo/Army Painter discussion

[CashWiley]

I also put an M on my metallics, just in case. But I really like the idea of numbering the triads, too!

 

More paint notes: I have some P3, I bought a small set just for Coal Black. Coal Black is amazing (it's actually a turquoise).

[Glitterwolf]

I've noticed of late that quite a number of painters are using Scale 75 paints.

I haven't tried them, but based on what I'm reading here I should go take a look.

 

Two things.

 

1 - The tips are similar to those of the Reaper bottles, but come closed! You'll need to use a needle first time to open them.

 

2 - Shake it baby!!! They need a lot of shaking.

 

The end result is great paint though.

 

Reaper and Scale 75 are my main weapons at the moment, 3rd is Vallejo, the rest is to be replaced by any of these three when they're used up.

[Ghool]

 

I've noticed of late that quite a number of painters are using Scale 75 paints.

I haven't tried them, but based on what I'm reading here I should go take a look.

 

Two things.

 

1 - The tips are similar to those of the Reaper bottles, but come closed! You'll need to use a needle first time to open them.

 

2 - Shake it baby!!! They need a lot of shaking.

 

The end result is great paint though.

 

Reaper and Scale 75 are my main weapons at the moment, 3rd is Vallejo, the rest is to be replaced by any of these three when they're used up.

 

 

I was taking a look at prices today. I might splurge and get some new paints instead of models.

It's not like I need more models anyhow.....

 

I've seen several painters I know switch completely over to them, and the results are really nice.

Thanks for the tips!

[Arc 724]

I also put an M on my metallics, just in case. But I really like the idea of numbering the triads, too!

 

More paint notes: I have some P3, I bought a small set just for Coal Black. Coal Black is amazing (it's actually a turquoise).

turquoise? Interesting. I'll have to look that up.

[Marsya]

I also put an M on my metallics, just in case. But I really like the idea of numbering the triads, too!More paint notes: I have some P3, I bought a small set just for Coal Black. Coal Black is amazing (it's actually a turquoise).

Yes I love it too. I am on my third bottle. P3's coal black and Reapers Burgandy Wine are generally my go to for shadows.

[Auberon]

 

I've picked up a few brands over the years, so I'll give you my opinions.

 

Vallejo Model Color – a very extensive line of paints that covers a lot of colors. It works great for techniques such as layering. The downside that everyone mentions is their fragility. Definitely seal anything that will be handled. Some of their pigments are really bad about separating so you might want to look into a mechanical aid of some type unless you really like shaking your paints. Their glaze medium is really handy to have around.

 

Vallejo Game Color – A much smaller line of paint designed to be sturdier for gaming. In my experience they do hold up better, but some of the paints aren't as nice to work with. That's not to say that all of them are bad; for example the GC “heavy†paint set uses the Model Color formulation , but overall it is their weakest line. Speaking of the good stuff, Vallejo's ochre is a nice base for yellows and golds.

 

Vallejo Game Ink – Pretty standard colors. They dry very gloss.

 

Scalecolor (original formulation) – A very tight range of paints, but what there is is really nice. The paint is super matte, but also handles differently than other hobby paint so there is a bit of a learning curve with it. At first they are a pain to shake (I recommend adding an agitator) but once they've been used a bit and get some air in the bottle they mix pretty well. I've found that when painting with them I can't be as aggressive as I can with Vallejo. Paint that looks just dry tears pretty easily. Because the line is very focused you will need to mix these paints on your pallet to achieve some intermediate shades.

 

Reaper – I use Reaper paints mostly for skin and haven't purchased much beyond that. Overall a good line, but limited in some areas because they avoid certain pigments.

 

I'm curious as to what pigments you think Reaper avoids?

 

Unlike Vallejo, I've never seen an SDS for Reaper paints so its as much rumor as anything, but rumor has it that Reaper avoids toxic heavy metals in their paints.  The typical five heavy metals are lead, mercury, arsenic, chromium, and cadmium, all of which have been used to make pigments at some point in time. 

 

I hear that if you know the right person, it is still possible to get genuine Chinese vermilion from China. 

[Pingo]

 

I'm curious as to what pigments you think Reaper avoids?

Unlike Vallejo, I've never seen an SDS for Reaper paints so its as much rumor as anything, but rumor has it that Reaper avoids toxic heavy metals in their paints. The typical five heavy metals are lead, mercury, arsenic, chromium, and cadmium, all of which have been used to make pigments at some point in time.

So far as I know, Reaper sticks to "non-toxic" pigments for health and safety reasons. All of their paints are mixed from about a dozen pigments chosen for their lack of toxicity.

 

So yeah, no, they're not going to use the heavy metal pigments. In that sense they avoid them.

 

ETA: Also, you left out uranium. Now there was a fun orange. :P

 

I hear that if you know the right person, it is still possible to get genuine Chinese vermilion from China.

So far as I know, genuine Vermilion paint continues to be readily available on the market (but it has been a while since I checked). I have a small drawerful of tubes of Vermilion in oil, in shades from brilliant orange-red to deep maroon-red.

 

It's pretty, but the Cadmiums do just as well for opaque bright reds, in my opinion.

Edited September 14, 2016 by Pingo

[Cassu]

 

Oh yes, I (somehow) ended up with a few bottles of Walnut Brown and loved it so much, especially after Buglips' amazing discovery of covering your Bones in a Walnut Brown wash to make the details pop before painting.

I'm afraid that Walnut Brown, although great on metal minis, doesn't work well on Bones at all.

 

Buglips discovered that. He also discovered that Brown Liner is the magic paint that sticks to Bones and makes everything else work.

 

Like Doug, I mostly use Golden Matte Fluid Acrylics. But I am almost on my second bottle of Brown Liner. It's that useful.

 

Thanks for correcting me!

 

Also, since I haven't mentioned it in other threads, my heart goes out to you. I hate when bad things happen to good people, especially when it's a person doing bad things. The upside is, you have been given a good life lesson to grow from and things are going to be awesome!

 

One more paint note for the future: my metallic of choice is Vallejo Model Air.

 

Very true! I shall keep an eye out for Vallejo Model Air.

 

I also love the vallejo model air metallics, especially chrome which is super shiny.  Otherwise I completely use reaper or golden fluid acrylic paints.

 

Sorry about lost paint.  Are you coming to reapercon?  I have a bunch of promo colors I can bring if you want them.  Just PM me especially if you have a request and I'll bring it!

 

oh- edit- the same goes for any bones you want.  I splurged during the kickstarters so I have some extras.  If you want something, tell me!

No ReaperCon for me yet, although I will one day I swear!

 

Thought I should mention that the Reaper Bones metallic paints are much nicer than the standard MSP ones. They are shinier, stay in suspension better and just plain look good. I can't compare them to Scale 75 because I haven't tried them yet, but they beat P3 and Vallejo Game/Model color in my opinion. (Haven't tried Vallejo Air, either, to be 100% fair.)

 

And welcome back, Cassu. I hope life has only awesome things in store for you!

Thank you!

 

I also put an M on my metallics, just in case. But I really like the idea of numbering the triads, too!

 

More paint notes: I have some P3, I bought a small set just for Coal Black. Coal Black is amazing (it's actually a turquoise).

My local store does stock P3 paints, and I haven't ever used any before. I did some research and read mixed things, but will get a pot and give it a go. A turquoise colour sounds amazing.

 

I am loving all of the advice and replies to this thread, thank you so so much guys!

[Kheprera]

I started to browse the Reaper store for my specific favorite colors. I got as far as:

 

Grey Blue triad: Midnight Blue, Twilight Blue, Snow Shadow

 

Peacock Green, Nightsky Blue, Cinnamon Red...

 

And then thought "AAAAARGH JUST BUY THEM ALL!!!"

 

But the aboves are must haves in any paint kit I assemble.

[Jokemeister]

Also, since I haven't mentioned it in other threads, my heart goes out to you. I hate when bad things happen to good people, especially when it's a person doing bad things. The upside is, you have been given a good life lesson to grow from and things are going to be awesome!

 

One more paint note for the future: my metallic of choice is Vallejo Model Air.

 

Now that is useful to know!  Vallejo paints are actually locally available so I may be able to save a fortune on shipping if I go with their Model Air line instead.

[knarthex]

I use Scale 75 almost exclusively since I got them, both the Scale Color line and the Fantasy and Game lines. The Metallics are pure magic....

Here is a thread that discusses them....

And yes, they need to be shaken quite a bit, and you must puncture the tips when you get them! They layer wonderfully.....

 

I also use Reaper for certain things, as the Scale line is only 130 odd colors at the moment, and that includes their inks... White Triad, Different hair and skin Triads...

Everyone is extolling the Brown Liner, which is a good color, but I find that I use the Grey and Blue liners more myself, but that is likely a style thing.

They work the same on bones as a primer as the brown....

Caveat, I have not painted a lot of bones, as I prefer metal for 'human sized' minis... But the Grey liner thinned 2 parts paint to 1 part medium was awesome through my airbrush for the Tower parts of Dragons Don't Share 2. And I primed the wolf demon with that as well...

 

I have quite a bit of Vallejo from when I was painting Flames of War military minis, they are quite good for muted and camouflage type colors....

The metallic medium is a great additive for colored metallics....

 

I also still use some of the older Citadel paints. I have switched them over into dropper bottles... Snake bite leather, Scorched Brown, Tin Bitz......

Coat D' Arms will slowly start to replace those if I can find a distributor that doesn't want my firstborn for shipping costs....(I hear that Hasslefree is now selling them....)

 

I have been hearing good things about the Warcolour paints recently, and I think I am going to give them a try very soon...

See if Guindyloo will talk about them, and Bathory as well....

 

hope that helps!

 

And hope to see you on the Hangouts sometime!

 

George

 

I use P3 spray primers for metals, Reaper brush on for touch ups...

Edited September 14, 2016 by knarthex

[Mad Jack]

 Okay, need to know - why the elf is it "Coal Black" if it's turquoise?

[LittleBluberry]

Okay, need to know - why the elf is it "Coal Black" if it's turquoise?

It's a black with a turquoise undertone, sort of the way Reaper's Nightmare Black is really blue when you thin it.

[Glitterwolf]

I started to browse the Reaper store for my specific favorite colors. I got as far as:

 

Grey Blue triad: Midnight Blue, Twilight Blue, Snow Shadow

 

Peacock Green, Nightsky Blue, Cinnamon Red...

 

And then thought "AAAAARGH JUST BUY THEM ALL!!!"

 

But the aboves are must haves in any paint kit I assemble.

 

I can relate to that.

 

When I started this hobby decades ago I had "some" paints.

 

Nowadays I have 5 paint caddies stuffed with paints.

 

My girl often wonder why I bought yet another red or blue...

 

*** Why did you buy blue? you already have 30+ blue paints?, yes..but ehh I needed THIS blue!!!****

[Gadgetman!]

I think I have 15 browns, not counting primers, washes or liners.