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I was excited to be at Reapercon this year. There was so much I learned! One thing was shading to make figures more realistic. This was the figure I used to learn on. The only thing is, I wish I knew what figure it is - name and number. I'm trying to keep a log of colors used for figures. Anyway, I'm going to work on this next when I finish Benedikt
This grouping is a little eclectic because I was experimenting with a new medium.
While I was at Reapercon, James Wapple introduced me to the joys of using oils to help me work on my tabletop minis and my blending. When I got home I found I had everything lying around except for some quality thinner so I got some of that, sat down and gave it a try. He has a number of YouTube videos describing the technique better than I ever could but it basically uses the fact that oils have an exceptionally long drying time to allow for some really nice wet blending without developing chalkyness or the layer steps I always get in dry blending. The oils being a heavier body also seems to help me give the mini a fur effect of different hairs across the body
What I found was a new method, for me, that should help me clear a lot of army minis and take them from primed to done and looking good in a very short period of time. First thing I tried wss a whitehorm stag that I had sitting next to my desk when I got home. It was by wizkids and pre primed so easy pickens
including setup that was about 40 minutes work and my first try. Next up wss a hippogryph which has been haunting my shelf of shame for 4 years now because I could never get the horse part right
While not as good on the feathers (feathers aren't easy for me and these are barely scored enough to show detail) I finally got some results on the horsey part that I actually liked: nice warm red tones and highlights that don't look painted on. The chest feathers in was also able to get some highlights into that don look drybrushed. And again, this was another 40 minutes or so.
Finally I decided to try some rats that I needed for a (hopefully) upcoming Rangers of Shadow's Deep campaign. Since the method Scott showed me uses #6 and #8 brushes I was curious how it would work on Such a small mini. I think it did very well, again giving me noce highlights in the fur without looking drybrushed and without taking a huge amount of time (30 minutes for the lot)
Not too bad for my first few tries. I especially like how the greys and browns turned out but even the white rats have some character.
I am certainly going to give it some more time and minis, both for animals and a huge group of Wrath of Kings minis that have languished in the back of my shelves for years. Hope you like what you see. They are my first trys and I really like the results
Does anybody recognize this mini?
I got this mini from a forum trade or lot purchase some time ago. I do not know who made it or any details about it.
It is made in white metal, came in two parts with body and the head and came with an unmarked tab to go in a slottabase.
I tried using my Google-Fu, but all I found was a couple posts stating this is a Chainmail miniature, from the short-lived Wizards of the Coast miniatures line from the turn of the century.
However, I do not think it is a Chainmail mini, as I do not remember seeing such a mini in that line at that time, it does not appear on any Chainmail listings and does not have any markings on the tab like Chainmail minis have. Also, I think they were a bit more finely detailed in general.
I put it on a 30mm base
So I painted this big guy up. I don't know who manufactured him or what he's made of because he was given to me by a friend. It's a heavy fig and it might be lead. If anyone has any idea what this is or who manufactured it, please let me know!
I went with a classic green lizard man colour scheme. I added a pic with a regular sized min for scale. I believe he's a bones mercenary?
EDITED: I tried to fix the pics since the originals were on photobucket. Apologies if they're a bit off!
Ok, face painters! Have you always wondered how to get nice smooth skin blend? I'm going to do my best to take you step by step through a face. I could probably be persuaded to also move on to other skin areas, but let's start simple. Now, while snapping photos I realized this blending is not going to be as neat and clean as I usually like it because the photoing process did interfere with a few layers. But, we'll get it smooth in the end! Are you ready?!
First things first: A large model, to better illustrate what we're doing! And our materials.
We have Yephima, cloud giantess, a W&N #2, and RMS paint! I used fair skin as my flesh color, and I'm going to shade with porcelain rose and spattered crimson and highlight with pure white. This should give us a nice warm flesh tone. I'll also use walnut brown on the eyes. After snapping this, I also realized I wanted blue eyes- so I added ashen blue for the iris. Porcelain is a retired color. You can sub punk rock pink or just mix spattered with white and it'll work just fine. But I had it, and I like it, and if I keep using it, maybe reaper will bring it back!
1. Step 1: basecoat the face with fair skin.
Hey! My model has a little face blemish! Oh no! What can I do to fix this? Never fear, face painters! Just take a little bit of brush-on sealer and cover the blemish with a nice layer, and it will smooth out. You can then put another layer of basecoat on top. I did a total of 3 layers of flesh, mainly because I forgot to wash this model and I had some adherence issues on the chest.
2. Step 2: The eyes!
Line with walnut. Doesn't have to be perfect. You can always touch up with flesh. Paint the sclera white. Pure white probably isn't as good as linen or leather white, but I'm trying to limit our palette. Add the iris- ashen blue, as you can see. Here's where we pick the direction of gaze and try to make the eye "look" in the same direction. Takes some practice to figure our what works and what you like. Again, if paint goes where you don't want it, just touch up. Hmmn... I could have sworn I took one with just the blue... at any rater, after the blue is down add the walnut brown pupil. Then dot the pupil with white. Sorry, that back eye is hard to see. Usually there's an easy eye and a hard eye. Some people start with the hard eye. I start with the easy eye, so at least one will look the way I want!
3. Step 3: Breathe. Don't forget to breath again now that the eyes are done!
4. Step 4: Shading.
This is a lot messier because I'm pausing to photo- sorry! First I lay down a thin glaze of spattered crimson all the way to the edge of the walnut, then clean the brush and just smooth the edge out using a damp brush and some feathering type strokes. Thin is better. See how nice and translucent this layer is? You can easily see the flesh underneath.
I went back in with a thin glaze of my flesh to reclaim some of that cheekbone from the shadow. Then proceeded to put some crimson on the side of the nose and smooth it out.
I really tried to catch each specific step. But- you can see how thin the layer is, then how it smooths with a damp brush. I usually do a few layers of this and reclaim my flesh with a thin glaze if I feel I have too much shadow tone. The crimson will mesh nicely with the walnut so that it looks like she has nice intense Maybelline lashes! Er- probably don't want quite this much contrast with a male face. If I were doing this on a male model, I'd pick something like ruddy brown to line the eyes.
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