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Something there is that doesn't love a wall


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These are some resin dungeon- and garden-type stone walls.

 

The first are from Ainsty Castings, and they were dreamy to work with.  Crisp, flawless molds, tight details, and a paint-receptive surface.

 

The second are from Novus Design Studio, and they ... weren't.  There appear to have been many tiny bubbles in the master molds, causing lots of little spherical blisters on the model.  The major frustration was that they were water and paint repellent.  I had to jump through many hoops to get paint to adhere to their upper parts.

 

Ainsty Castings #1001, 9 cm Dungeon Wall:

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#1005, 6cm Dungeon Wall Door Section (door is removable and I didn't glue it in)

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For scale, images with Reaper's 77131, Finaela, Pirate, and Ral Partha / Ironwind Metals Ciera, Swordmistress:

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Just as a brief break from walls, these are Ainsty Castings #1209, 6cm x 6 cm Dungeon Floor with Small Grill.

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Details:

 

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The Novus Design Studio walls came in a set of six: two each of small, medium, and long walls.  Each had a plain stone design on one side and a large skull in an arch on the other.  The stones were modeled completely flat.

 

I painted up the skull decorations as if someone was keeping them crudely painted, with cream, black, and red paint.  I grew tired of plain grey stones, so added a lot of lichen.  The little bubble flaws from the moldmaking process I painted red and figured if anyone asked, they are little fungi.

 

Novus Design Studios #1015 - 28mm Fantasy Wall Set. Finaela for scale.

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Details:

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post-8022-0-95717100-1474567728.jpg

 

 

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Those is the type of Dungeon decor I dreamed about in my AD&D days. I never managed to convince the crew that the table was for the game & the dips & chips would work well on the coffee table.

All that aside, the walls & floors look WONDERFULLY dungeon-like. Your brushwork & color choices are OUTSTANDINGVERY WELL DONE!

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These are amazing!!

 

I am floored by the.... floors.

 

They look crazy real. :O I was afraid to say anything about them in case you responded with, "Yeah, I bought those" or, "Yeah, those are real stone." :lol:

 

Although my particular pieces aren't in the photo, this is what Ainsty floor pieces look like when they arrive.

 

I started them in more or less my normal fashion: Thinly prime white, wash with Burnt Umber.  Then I layered soft greyish blends made from various mixes of Ultramarine Blue, Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White.  The grates I primed black, brushed with a bit of the greys, then washed with a dark grey mixed from Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna.  I think I ran some more thinned Burnt Umber into the channels between the stones.

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Sorry to hear the second set gave you so much trouble.

Good to know though.

 

I must say both sets look good, but the first one also looks better.

Wonderful stonework,

I agree on both counts. Great work all around, though.

 

What did you need to do to the Novus pieces to finally get them to take paint?

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Sorry to hear the second set gave you so much trouble.

Good to know though.

 

I must say both sets look good, but the first one also looks better.

Wonderful stonework,

I agree on both counts. Great work all around, though.

 

What did you need to do to the Novus pieces to finally get them to take paint?

 

 

If I recall correctly, I first scrubbed them with hot water, a soft toothbrush, and strong dish detergent.

 

After they repelled paint, I tried several things which did not work: adding a smidgen of flow release (which only made a weak, soft paint film that still beaded up), and then trying a drop of rubbing alcohol in the primer, very nearly my last resort.

 

Finally I pulled out a Golden acrylic painting medium, GAC 200, which I have used for painting outdoor fiberglass statuary.  It "promotes adhesion" and "film hardness", which seemed to be what I needed. (It also makes paint films more brittle, but as long as one is painting on a hard, inflexible surface such as resin that's not too much of a problem.)

 

I mixed my primer with GAC 200, but even then if I left it alone to air dry it would s-l-o-w-l-y bead up on the resin.  I used a hair dryer to dry the paint quickly as I painted it, before the film could break up.  The heat and air killed a couple of brushes, and it entailed a good amount of hand-juggling, but after about three coats it finally worked.

 

Probably spray priming would have been easier. :rolleyes: 

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