Removing the rocks under Wyrmgear's feet?
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By DragonWyrm
The Medium
I personally find the blended fibers medium by Liquitex to be a highly versatile medium. It can be added to any ground mixture to add the appearance of natural roots and similar debris. In this tutorial I will be looking at how to make an ice base using it. It is important to remember that in most cases the ice is hardly crystal clear and instead it generally appears cloudy white. The blended fibbers have a slight translucency which allows for the illusion of depth, while each fiber acts like a crack in the ice.
The Ice
Step 1: Base colour
Use a dark base. Then tint it with the colour you want. In this case I used Cerulean Blue. This step can be skipped if you are going to be tinting the medium instead (thought a darker base colour is still advised)
Step 2: Apply Fiber Medium
Slather on a large dollop of medium. You can add some colour to tint it, but the colour will change significantly as it dries so be carful to not overpower it (you don't even need to mix it well as streaking colours may be desired). Transparent colours work better for tinting if you still want to retain the depth. In this case I did not tint it.
Step 3: Smooth the Medium
I did this by wetting a pallet knife and running it over the surface, followed by cleaning up the edges. The Fiber medium is extremely easy to smooth with a wet pallet knife. The thickness decides how much translucency the final product has.
Step 4: Let it Dry
In this case I liked how it looked so I decided not to dry brush it with white. Drybrushing with white would make it look more frosty. This took a couple hours for me, mostly due to the thickness I chose. You can see how the blue is showing in the photo, that is the undercoat peaking through.
The Snow
Step 1: Snow
Mix some medium with Titanium white. This will make a nice snow texture
Step 2: Applying Snow
Apply the snow and feather it out with a brush, the feathering out makes it look more realistic. If you don't want peaks use water to smooth the snow (unless you want peaks to represent sticks in the snow.)
Step 3: Let it Dry
The base is now finished.
The Miniature
Put a miniature on it. Thats what a base is for. Unless you want to use it as a trap in DnD or some terrain.
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By Darcstaar
I only saw one thread about crackle paste when I searched these forums.
So, I’m going to share how it’s going for me.
I started with washed and dried 1” and 2” Reaper Bases.
I put this garbage on a 2 inch base first.
Don’t buy it. I got it at Hobby Lobby at the time because they were out of Folk Art.
To be clear, this is Crackle Medium.
It is meant to be painted on a primed or rough surface I guess, and painted thin. I put it on kind of thick. It didn’t crackle at all!
So, I got a tub of this stuff on Amazon.
The directions state “put over a thin layer of PVA glue.” Pfft, who has time for that extra step?
Here is the result on a washed but otherwise un prepped set of bases.
1 inch
2 inch.
Lousy!
So, the surface needs something for crackle paste to work right.
This is a 1” base with a thin layer of PVA glue.
This is a 1” base with just hitting it with 220 grit sandpaper and washing it again.
I also used the 2” base with dried crackle medium on it. Not pictured.
This is a 2” base covered in black brush on primer.
Here is the result on the 2” base over dried crackle medium. It was hard to get the stuff into a uniform layer, as the medium created a very hydrophobic surface, so the paste slides around too easy.
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By Thrym
Yeah, another base. Shocker, I know. It's one I've been thinking about for years, basically, since I bought the beads that are in it.
So, the premise:
I use the air-dry clay hexes from the previous project as well as these beads I bought at Walmart so long ago. The Bugle Beads are hex-shaped and iridescent. The color on the tube is labeled as "black iris."
I build a flat of the hexes and use the beads upright on a portion of the base to represent an unusual terrain. I use a pill bottle shell along one edge to build the terrain upward on that edge more easily. I'll peel that off later.
So here's the bottom layer of the piece.
The front layer is as high as it will go. The next layer will go to the top of the beads and also be flat. The last layer will be more like a hill on the other side of the beads.
Now if this was for a mech it would look like pilings holding back the earth. I will use more of them here than just along the fronts.
Stay tuned. Enjoy. Please, stay safe.
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By Metalchaos
Hello everyone, here are pictures of a 77341 Lioness. This Bones model was sculpted by Geoff Valley. I painted it as a Black (Blue) Panther.
I kept the original base and sculpted additional high grass around to incorporate it to a larger 2 inches square base. The trees are dried roots.
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By Gantrell
I decided to try the new hotness of the color shifting paints. I am really impressed. I hope you all enjoy my version of the clockwork dragon.
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