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Wren

[SPLIT] Vortex Shakers

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The seller claims that the stuff he sells is all new.   

The seller only has 8 feedbacks, though, with a 2015 creation date, so we'll see. 

 

The first thing I'll do is tear it open and look for any evidence that it's a refurb. 

 

They have a manual centrifuge, also... 

 

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That's alright, when I bought mine off of Amazon there was only 6 feedbacks but it was also brand new. All the reviews were good except one, but that was only because he said it wasn't strong enough to mix his e-juice properly LOL. Every other review was from happy hobby painters able to mix their paints for miniatures now.::):

Edited by Pezler the Polychromatic
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9 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

The seller claims that the stuff he sells is all new.   

The seller only has 8 feedbacks, though, with a 2015 creation date, so we'll see. 

 

The first thing I'll do is tear it open and look for any evidence that it's a refurb. 

 

They have a manual centrifuge, also... 

 

 

I have added this seller to my watch list.  Will be waiting to see what your review has to say.

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My Indian Vortex shaker arrived today.

Yes, it's new. Yes, it's definitely made in India.

Probably in a garage shop somewhere...

The fit of the panels is kind of 'meh, it's good enough if we slather some paint on it'.

 

I'll post a few pictures tonight, after I get it home and tested.

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So, I got it home and tested it...

 

This model does NOT activate when you press a bottle down into the cup. 

It did shake the paint, though, so it works...  

 

Now to take it apart...

(Lots of pictures)

 

Spoiler

It doesn't look too bad on the outside...

IMG_0194.thumb.jpg.3454fe383047ae04157bf2921cfb0255.jpg

The travel adapter is kind of a downer, but it's the work of 2 minutes to cut the lead and put on a Euro plug. 

I would have liked it better if it used a standard instrument lead, though.

 

The rubber cup and the shaft it sits on is easily pulled off. 

IMG_0195.thumb.jpg.805079e304439b1ecd830dec744c27ee.jpg

I fear that the shaft - being of plastic - will wear out and loose grip on the motorpretty soon, though.

 

A slightly closer look...

 

IMG_0197.thumb.jpg.8d72088bb79ab0d1f47b77d647f9afb4.jpg

The 'dimples' nest to twhere the cup is mounted is the motor mounts. 

Also note the badly fitting front decor. Just sloppy. Also, the power switch is pretty loose. 

It's a push-fit model, and the hole is slightly too large. 

They should have combined the switch with an instrument lead socket(you can get combined units that even has a fuse. There's no fuse in this unit)

 

Underside

IMG_0198.thumb.jpg.545281e9bc0bd7f2a8d719fcc4cc15f9.jpg

Sloppy workmanship, but it's on the underside, so who cares?

 

Lets open it up...

IMG_0199.thumb.jpg.aa2867aa2b657ebc1199e51f86234beb.jpg

 

Pretty simple, really.

Power comes in, goes through the switch, then through the variable resistor, through the transformer, and finally through a rectifier before getting to the motor.

They've used a full-bridge rectifier, so that's a plus. 

I can't see any capacitors, which is a worrying minus. (May damage the motor over time)

The amateurish use of zipties to stop the power cable from being pulled out... a big minus. Probably also a fire hazard since nothing stops the cable from being pushed further in, then pulled back out again, and the rubber grommet is crap.

 

But there's a few bigger issues...

IMG_0201.thumb.jpg.6322b2813df3d8356a9a9ef49ac5b8a4.jpg

THAT is one of the screws holding the transformer in place. Also, note that the transformer is mounted directly to the metal frame. 

Please, use threadlocking fluid. There's no excuse not to.

This thing may have earthing issues... 

 

Did you notice that there's a spliced wire in there?

IMG_0202.thumb.jpg.50fbb5e076b9d2f4e09241f22ecdb68c.jpg

Pulled it out a bit to make it more easy to see.

Yes, that's ust cheap black plastic 'electricians tape' The glue is of a particularly weak variety, and it's not as if it has been wrapped tightly around the TWISTED TOGETHER wires! 

That's a big FAIL!

 

What about the rectifier?

IMG_0203.thumb.jpg.7c2a0d48b97232ec0a80134898848580.jpg

Take a very good look at the rectifier(the black square with wires on the corners and a bolt through the middle)

 

Yes, they've just wrapped the wires around the pins of the component, then bent the pins to 'secure' the wires. 

This is such a fail that I cant even remember when I saw something like it. 

 

I will need to go over all imporant bolts and Threadlock them, then solder and secure wires with heat-shrink tubing before this will be safe to use. 

No it's not 'CE' approved... Come near anyone who does testing with this and they'll pull out a Mossberg pump-action, shoot you and call it self-defense.

 

In short, as it is sold, it'll work, but you may burn down your house.

Frankly, even the Chinese fakers would be horrified by seeing this kind of workmanship, or lack of it.

 

Edited by Gadgetman!
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14 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

So, I got it home and tested it...

 

This model does NOT activate when you press a bottle down into the cup. 

It did shake the paint, though, so it works...  

 

Now to take it apart...

(Lots of pictures)

 

  Hide contents

It doesn't look too bad on the outside...

IMG_0194.thumb.jpg.3454fe383047ae04157bf2921cfb0255.jpg

The travel adapter is kind of a downer, but it's the work of 2 minutes to cut the lead and put on a Euro plug. 

I would have liked it better if it used a standard instrument lead, though.

 

The rubber cup and the shaft it sits on is easily pulled off. 

IMG_0195.thumb.jpg.805079e304439b1ecd830dec744c27ee.jpg

I fear that the shaft - being of plastic - will wear out and loose grip on the motorpretty soon, though.

 

A slightly closer look...

 

IMG_0197.thumb.jpg.8d72088bb79ab0d1f47b77d647f9afb4.jpg

The 'dimples' nest to twhere the cup is mounted is the motor mounts. 

Also note the badly fitting front decor. Just sloppy. Also, the power switch is pretty loose. 

It's a push-fit model, and the hole is slightly too large. 

They should have combined the switch with an instrument lead socket(you can get combined units that even has a fuse. There's no fuse in this unit)

 

Underside

IMG_0198.thumb.jpg.545281e9bc0bd7f2a8d719fcc4cc15f9.jpg

Sloppy workmanship, but it's on the underside, so who cares?

 

Lets open it up...

IMG_0199.thumb.jpg.aa2867aa2b657ebc1199e51f86234beb.jpg

 

Pretty simple, really.

Power comes in, goes through the switch, then through the variable resistor, through the transformer, and finally through a rectifier before getting to the motor.

They've used a full-bridge rectifier, so that's a plus. 

I can't see any capacitors, which is a worrying minus. (May damage the motor over time)

The amateurish use of zipties to stop the power cable from being pulled out... a big minus. Probably also a fire hazard since nothing stops the cable from being pushed further in, then pulled back out again, and the rubber grommet is crap.

 

But there's a few bigger issues...

IMG_0201.thumb.jpg.6322b2813df3d8356a9a9ef49ac5b8a4.jpg

THAT is one of the screws holding the transformer in place. Also, note that the transformer is mounted directly to the metal frame. 

Please, use threadlocking fluid. There's no excuse not to.

This thing may have earthing issues... 

 

Did you notice that there's a spliced wire in there?

IMG_0202.thumb.jpg.50fbb5e076b9d2f4e09241f22ecdb68c.jpg

Pulled it out a bit to make it more easy to see.

Yes, that's ust cheap black plastic 'electricians tape' The glue is of a particularly weak variety, and it's not as if it has been wrapped tightly around the TWISTED TOGETHER wires! 

That's a big FAIL!

 

What about the rectifier?

IMG_0203.thumb.jpg.7c2a0d48b97232ec0a80134898848580.jpg

Take a very good look at the rectifier(the black square with wires on the corners and a bolt through the middle)

 

Yes, they've just wrapped the wires around the pins of the component, then bent the pins to 'secure' the wires. 

This is such a fail that I cant even remember when I saw something like it. 

 

I will need to go over all imporant bolts and Threadlock them, then solder and secure wires with heat-shrink tubing before this will be safe to use. 

No it's not 'CE' approved... Come near anyone who does testing with this and they'll pull out a Mossberg pump-action, shoot you and call it self-defense.

 

In short, as it is sold, it'll work, but you may burn down your house.

Frankly, even the Chinese fakers would be horrified by seeing this kind of workmanship, or lack of it.

 

*eye twitch*

 

Thank you for posting this, it gives us all a better idea of what we'd be getting from there.

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If you weren't going to fix it, this would be a classic piece of hardware for a Big Clive teardown.

 

Too bad it's not pink.

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The biggest issues can be fixed, though.

(nothing that 10 minutes with a soldering iron and another few minutes with a hot glue gun won't fix)

It's just the audacity they have to send out such fire hazards!

 

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Got my Typhoon mixer... happy birthday to me and a big thanks to my beautiful wife.  

You can tell that its origins were long, long ago in a lab far, far away but looks to be scrubbed up quite nicely.  It seems to work flawlessly, although some older paint pots seem to be resistant to it.  To be fair those same bottles of paint were absolutely immune to shaking by hand.

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Sometimes you need to pop off the dropper, add some water, and stir with something like a long plastic toothpick to get things moving. Then once you get it started the rest is much easier via vortex mixer than by hand! If you can poke into the sludge and it's slightly oozy it's probably possible to safe. A chunk that only gives slightly is a goner.

I will note that as I've checked my paints, including super old paints, I have taken to prying off the dropper if the paint comes out at all thick. Sometimes it seems like you get a glob of paint that'll stick up in the neck of the bottle. Even if the bottle feels like the paint shakes up well to the hand, that glob stays up there and dries out faster than the rest. If you check bottles every year or two and mix that glob back into the main mass with a little water, you can prolong the life of your paints.

I'm currently experimenting with a theory of making sure that the dropper hole is clear before I recap a bottle of paint after use, to see if that means there's no glob in the neck. Not exactly sure how to test my theory, but there it is. :->

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12 hours ago, Wren said:

I'm currently experimenting with a theory of making sure that the dropper hole is clear before I recap a bottle of paint after use, to see if that means there's no glob in the neck. Not exactly sure how to test my theory, but there it is. :->

 

I have been tapping bottle bottom on table while open and lightly squeezing it to try and clear out nozzle.  It seems to do the trick from what I have noticed when coming back to paint a couple weeks later.

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MrBoot happened to wander over as I was doing a round of paint bottle shaking (I've been going through and labeling the bottoms of all my paints, and giving each one a vigorous shaking at the same time), and I put him to work for a brief time shaking paints too. I then happened to mention that a vortex shaker would be nice someday, and he was curious, so I dug out this thread, showed him the video, and explained about Robert (side note: both his etsy and ebay stores are stocked again). MrBoot then asked how soon I would need said mixer, and I said it wasn't urgent, just that it would be nice to have one.

 

So now at least vortex mixers are on his radar now, and he knows what I would like for a present someday. :bday:

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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Ordered a Vortex Mixer off of ebay about a week or a week and a half ago, it arrived today. I quickly wiped off all the dirt/grime/dust/germs with a clorox wipe and then plugged it in and tried it out on the older SC75 paints I have. If you know of these paints, you know they are a bear to shake and mix, takes like 2 minutes of shaking by hand. Put one into the vortex and 20-30 seconds later it's completely mixed and smooth as butter!

 

Highly recommend one of these if you can find it for a reasonable price. Mine (including shipping) was about $55 total. Well worth the investment.

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