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Awesome news!  I recently had an idea that using miniatures and terrain pieces in the classroom setting would be way more effective than the simple PowerPoint projections of maps that I've used multiple times (I teach world history).  However, to make it more useful, I decided that having everything magnetically-based would be better as it can be a vertical or horizontal learning tool.

Well, my district (Colorado Springs district 11) recently sent around a notification that they had grant money available, so I pitched my idea as "Tactile Tactics."  This morning, I was informed that they've accepted my grant request!

I'll be using cookie sheets with maps magnetically held in place and minis with magnets in their bases. 

I'll be able to have my kiddos place the Axis and Allied forces in the correct countries.  We'll be able to see in 3D what the phalanx formation looks like.  We'll be able to see how the mountains of Greece made each polis unique.  It's going to be AWESOME!  As I continue working on pieces for it, I'll be posting images here.  I've already ordered the Persian infantrymen from Wargames Factory on the bay!

I'm also thinking I may have some of my more artistically-inclined students join in on helping to paint some of the pieces for it.

If anyone's already got some experience with minis and magnets or how to effectively use minis in a vertical format, feel free to share your wisdom  :=)

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I'd have lent my brush to help you with that.  Honestly, using plastic miniatures will be best.  The idea is to glue them to the plastic base and put the magnet on the bottom.  Both Litko and Gale Force 9 have a magnetic base bottom.  And cookie sheets would work for table use, but what about a simple sheet of steel?  You can drill it and mount it to the wall depending on the school rules. 

 

The biggest issue you will run into is if you're trying to paint them ALL.  Paint one or two for reference.  Then have the others simply coated in the unit's base coat color.  It won't be pretty, but it gets the idea across pretty well. 

 

As to the miniatures themselves, it depends on the map you use. 

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Cool idea!

 

Though at the scale of map that fits on a cookie sheet, have you considered using 15mm, 10mm, or even 6mm troops? Painting them would be a lot easier too, as you could get away with less detail, and go more for mass effect.

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Thanks, everyone, for the enthusiasm, encouragement, and input! 

 

It terms of a wall-mounted steel sheet, I want it to be something I can easily take around the room or use in a vertical fashion.  Something like a cookie sheet can stand upright in the marker tray of my white board or easily be carried through the room.  However, a steel sheet might still have some solid merit.  I was thinking cookie sheet as cheaply and readily available at a Goodwill or some such to save on costs.  Not really sure what a steel sheet would run me.  Guess I should look into that...

 

In terms of scale, I'm looking at multiple cookie sheets so I can have a map spread across 2 or 3 sheets if needed.  Of course, that doesn't mean that some small scale minis won't be a bad idea...Although, I am considering adding a strip of metal or a magnet to the front of my podium so I can just have era-appropriate minis standing on the podium at times.  I think 28mm would already be pushing it at that distance.

 

Loving the input and that people are sharing in my excitement!  Thanks!

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Loving the educational use of minis. But how to add more zombies, dragons, big stompy robots and mouslings?

Thanks, everyone, for the enthusiasm, encouragement, and input! 

 

It terms of a wall-mounted steel sheet, I want it to be something I can easily take around the room or use in a vertical fashion.  Something like a cookie sheet can stand upright in the marker tray of my white board or easily be carried through the room.  However, a steel sheet might still have some solid merit.  I was thinking cookie sheet as cheaply and readily available at a Goodwill or some such to save on costs.  Not really sure what a steel sheet would run me.  Guess I should look into that...

 

In terms of scale, I'm looking at multiple cookie sheets so I can have a map spread across 2 or 3 sheets if needed.  Of course, that doesn't mean that some small scale minis won't be a bad idea...Although, I am considering adding a strip of metal or a magnet to the front of my podium so I can just have era-appropriate minis standing on the podium at times.  I think 28mm would already be pushing it at that distance.

 

Loving the input and that people are sharing in my excitement!  Thanks!

Couldn't you get magnetic sheets for the white board? Magnets stick to most modern white/blackboards, and sheets can be found in large sizes and are easy to carry.

Edited by Cranky Dog

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Pictures will be necessary!

Fear not, I shall post things once I actually have things to post. I actually haven't received the grant money yet, so I've only purchased the Persian infantry men (which will arrive by Friday), so I might just be making Persians and nothing else for a little while at least.

 

Loving the educational use of minis. But how to add more zombies, dragons, big stompy robots and mouslings?

Couldn't you get magnetic sheets for the white board? Magnets stick to most modern white/blackboards, and sheets can be found in large sizes and are easy to carry.

Mouselings and zombies and dragons OH MY! Hmmm, dragons to symbolically represent China (Chinese dragons), the zombies to represent Neo-Babylon since it's Babylon come back from the dead, and the mouselings...maybe the unaligned countries during the World Wars as mice scurry and hide?

My marker board is not magnetic :=( It's sad, but true.

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My Persian Infantry troops have arrived!!!

 

0AG7cp6.jpg

 

I've done sculpting and conversions, but I've actually never done minis from a sprue before! Feel free to offer me helpful tips :=)

Edited by Pippin
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Use a good plastic cement.  (I like the liquid kind that's applied with a brush mounted under the bottle cap.  And use an assembly line method for quicker assembly: work on like 10 figures at time, gluing all one part, than by the time you reach the last figure, the glue will be dry on the first figure and you can start gluing the second part down the line.

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Use a good plastic cement.  (I like the liquid kind that's applied with a brush mounted under the bottle cap.  And use an assembly line method for quicker assembly: work on like 10 figures at time, gluing all one part, than by the time you reach the last figure, the glue will be dry on the first figure and you can start gluing the second part down the line.

Thanks! I've got the brush and nozzle Gorilla Glue that I use in my conversions. Is that good enough, or should I get something different?

Also, I'm drilling and pinning everything. Is that overkill, or a great idea? I'm thinking since high schoolers will be handling these, it's not like an elementary sort of need for indestructible power, but still wanting to make sure they're durable.

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Use a good plastic cement.  (I like the liquid kind that's applied with a brush mounted under the bottle cap.  And use an assembly line method for quicker assembly: work on like 10 figures at time, gluing all one part, than by the time you reach the last figure, the glue will be dry on the first figure and you can start gluing the second part down the line.

Thanks! I've got the brush and nozzle Gorilla Glue that I use in my conversions. Is that good enough, or should I get something different?

Also, I'm drilling and pinning everything. Is that overkill, or a great idea? I'm thinking since high schoolers will be handling these, it's not like an elementary sort of need for indestructible power, but still wanting to make sure they're durable.

 

 

 

   You really want to use a glue designed specifically for plastic models that will actually fuse the pieces together, not just a super glue.  

 

     Yes, I would think drilling and pinning plastic models is a bit of an over kill; as I said, the plastic model cement will actually chemically melt and fuse the plastic pieces together into a pretty strong bond.  

 

I use Plastruct Plastic Weld

PLS-00002-2.jpg

Edited by Chris Palmer

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