Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Okay... I have a couple of this adorable mini and figured I'd try to do it the way the artist envisioned it, instead of how it had to be cast...

As it's only a minor conversion, and I'm not going to go into tedious detail, I didn't bother to make a thread in the conversion section.


So, first off, chop it into pieces!



Then chop it into more pieces, and drill holes through them!


(Look closely and you can see a beading wire run through the parts)


The LED I'm going to use, shown together with a part I'm not going to use, for size comparison.


It's a bit bigger than the ones I've messed with before, but that is mostly because it's an RGB LED.

(Red, Green, Blue.)

Which also explains the 4 thin wires.



Here the LED is in place in the scythe handle and placed in a mould of generic 'Blue Stuff'.

(The mould was made before I started cutting. I just didn't take pictures of that. Check GreenStuff World's YT videos for how-to)

Yes, the mould is two part...


Expect to spend an evening if you intend to do the same. Also, for [insert deity]'s sake, pick a single-colour LED as fitting an RGB LED is a pain in the...

(I used te RGB LED because I wanted Blue light, and I didn't have any Blue LEDs in my toybox)



Finally! Time to start painting...


Some Vallejo Gray primer on hands and face, Vallejo 70.614 'IDF Israeli Sand' primer on the handle.

The blade(made of clear resin, 'jewelry resin') isn't primed yet...


Now for the Black primer...


Note that I've been careful to use only a very thin layer on the edge part of the blade.


Priming done, it's time to begin slapping on paint...


And the first was 09437 Dragon Black,

That went on undiluted using a Rosemary&Co #0 filbert.

Then I mixed up a concoction I call 'Stygian night', (one drop Dragon Black, 2 drops 09423 Styx Purple) and used as the first highlight.

Second highlight is Styx Purple.

And finally a dab of 09686 Gothic Crimson for good measure.


I will probably need to go over some areas with Dragon Black again, and I also need to think a bit about the tears on the edge of the robe.


The blade will get a thin metallic coat, and the handle will get the Vallejo Old Wood weathering.

  • Like 18
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...



The RGB LED didn't work out as planned. It's possible that it got dislodged during the casting, or it just didn't have the right spread pattern. Also, the apint on the resin started cracking, so there must have been something wrong with the resin itself. 


I managed to find a 0402-size Blue LED online, but testing shows it to be even worse, and I didn't like the solder job done on those.

So I have ordered some  0805 and 1206 LEDs from a different supplier. Fingers crossed that those are better.

(And that they're out of China before their new years holiday)


I also have a couple of tricks that should help out, but they're kind of cheating, so... We'll see...




I did a bit of painting on the cross and the owl.


First I primed it black, then I added white dots in the face of the mouse.



The owl got a layer of Vallejo IDFSand Grey, nd the cross itself got mostly covered with Vallejo Dry Rust, then was dry-brushed with Vallejo Rust.



The Mouse eyes got a dab of Tamiya Clear Red, the owl got a bruhing of MSP Weathered Stone around the eyes, and MSP Rich Leather on the body and wings. The eyes and claws have been left just primered.



I'm pretty happy with the cross, but will need to do a bit more brushing on the mouse faces before calling it done.

The owl could be better... but I think that if I try to better it I'll probably screw it up, so I'm leaving it as is.


  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Lord of the Dish Pit
      More completed from the Shelf of Incompletion...

    • By odinsgrandson
      Aftermath is a dungeon crawler board game that is the heir to both Mice and Mystics and Stuffed Fables.
      The game takes place in a post apocalyptic world where rodents have formed colonies to scrounge resources for survival, cobbling together the things they need.
      For the set, I went with a lot of textures and a lot of wear and tear. Nothing these mice have is brand new, and I really wanted to express that.

    • By SamuraiJack
      The essence of miniature modeling has always been to capture the magic of imaginary worlds. When I was growing up, I used to love looking through magazines showing highly detailed models in epic battle scenes. All those visuals were a catalyst for my imagination thinking of all these magical worlds. I was amazed to find out that not only was it a hobby to build and paint them, but that I could create those magical worlds for myself! Even now, the aspect I appreciate most about this hobby is expressing myself through kitbashing and bringing my imaginations to reality. I’m always thinking of ways to improve the magic of my models so it's only natural that I started thinking of how to add lights to them!
      I was really inspired by what other members of the community were coming up with and the techniques they used to achieve certain effects. I was talking to a talented painter from my local game shop about adding lights to his miniatures. He said it was a really cool idea but lost interest quickly because of all the problems involved with where to put the batteries and how to change them out.
      My partner and I looked around and what most people were doing was adding a cell battery to the bottom of their bases and letting it dangle out or sealing something a bit more heavy duty in their models. We set out to design a power system that fits in the base, and is rechargeable to keep your models playable and removing all the hassle with jerry-rigged battery systems.
      The solution we came up with is an easy plug-in system so once you have the model wired up, you just have to connect it to the power pack and close it up! Once your model is finished and the power pack is in the base, charging your model is as simple as displaying it on the charging station. We used a wireless charging system similar to the Qi chargers used for phones. 
      The charging station uses a USB cord so you can easily charge it in any wall socket or even from your computer!  
      Here is how to install the Omnissious power packs:
      Step 1: Drill a hole in the base where you want to connect your model Step 2: Thread the electrical wire through Step 3: Plug in your Power Pack With backgrounds in engineering, it was important for us to confirm that our device could be mass produced before asking for funding. So we worked directly with a manufacturer to test and confirm manufacturing plans. We even tested the prototypes on our models and have been using them in our weekly games and tournaments… for uh, science. Check them out!
      LEDs in the heads light and the canon LEDs in the plasma gun LEDs to light up the candles on this ritual table LEDs in the eyes and right hand LED color options displayed in a group of elementals  
    • By Rahz
      Following a couple trials to print these (really I was looking for things to print with the clear green resin and Necrons sprung to mind) I managed to get a good set of 6 printed up. Then the idea skittered across my brain that I should put a light in them...
      So I have started painting them in the stereotypical dark+metal+green and picked up a small box of LEDs along with a coupe switches. 

      Here’s the group shot. 

      A bit of Reaper Coal Black and some Vallejo Copper.  They need at least another coat.  
      Test with a green LED held inside. 

      Once they get a bit more paint on them, I’ll build up some bases to hide the following bits in them. 

      Hoping to get another coat of paint on them later tonight along with the start of some edge highlights, but I’m solo-parenting so we’ll see how the evening goes.
      For now, it’s time to take the kids to their music lessons.  
      Thanks for looking. 
    • By Lord of the Dish Pit
      These were the final two of the Thanksgiving Challenge I was able to complete. 

      The one on the left is a fairly accurate depiction of the Elder Mouse that wound up briefly possessing me on Halloween and his friend is the Priestess of Cheezit. (Which has gone from a favored food of mice, to a religion it seems)

      Debating on the nature of Cheezits vs Cheese Nips, consulting the Book of Ralph.

      Nips are found to be acceptable, and they go off to spread this to the other mice...
  • Who's Online   17 Members, 3 Anonymous, 35 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...