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I was celebrating the arrival of my Learn to Paint Kits elsewhere on these boards and a number of people suggested that I post WIP pictures as I paint my first mini. With some trepidation, here they are.

 

Disclaimers:

  1. It isn't really my first mini but I haven't painted anything for about 15 years, and looking at my first efforts, I decided that I really needed to go back and start from scratch, preferably with some guidance in the choice and use of paints and techniques.
  2. While not technically nudity, I feel I should point out (as per the guidelines for posting) that the mini doesn't have any clothes on.

This is the first mini from the LTPK1, and comes from the Bones line: http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones%20skeletal%20archer/latest/77018#detail/77018_w_1

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The first step was the application of two coats of Dirty Bone as a base coat.

 

Sadly, the Dirty Bone which was the recommended base colour for this mini was incredibly thick. I was a bit unsure of thinning it with water, since I've read of the problems that diluted paint can cause on Bones in a base coat but it was far too thick to use as it was, so I went ahead and diluted it a bit. As you can see from the patch under the archer's hand, the paint was still very particulate at that point.

 

Having then checked the other paints, all of which had clogged nozzles but which were much more liquid than the Dirty Bone, I then went ahead and added about 60 drops of water to the bottle. Now this seems excessive to me but, although the paint still needs a little thinning in the palette, it does handle much better. Time will tell if it lasts in application but certainly I don't seem to have any drawback from the plastic.

 

The seams in the mini, which I could hardly see with the naked eye, are beautifully enhanced once the paint hits the model. :lol: I noticed this after the first coat but decided to ignore it and treat this, too, as a learning experience. ::):

 

And so to the first photograph.

post-15402-0-93613700-1483514823_thumb.jpg

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DId you wash the Bones first? And let them dry?

That way paint will stick better.,

 

Also many people use the Reaper Liners as a primer for Bones, works good.

 

Looking forward to see more.

 

Yep, washed them in lukewarm water with detergent in it. And then let them dry.

 

I don't have any Reaper Liner, so haven't primed with that. Actually, I decided just to follow the instructions in the booklet first (another reason I didn't clean off the seam-lines). That then gives me a baseline for future forays.

 

Unfortunately I've run into a problem with the next step, which requires a wash with Shadowed Stone (09085). My bottle of paint was horribly thick and it's full of little flakes of what appears to be cured black acrylic, so I'm a bit stymied at the moment. I've just emailed the good people at Reaper, so I'm sure they'll be able to help me out soon. In the meantime, I'm wondering if a wash of Ebony Flesh would double for the Shadowed Stone. ('Cos I really want to keep painting!)

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Looks like a good start!  I don't have the first Bones LTPK but I did pick up the second one (had most of the paints in the first kit already).  I will concur that the instructions (at least in the second kit) are pretty good and have certainly helped some things "click" for me that I previously "knew" but never really "got" if you know what I mean.  As for the Ebony Flesh, I'm thinking it might be pretty dark compared to the shadowed stone.  Ebony Flesh is pretty black. You might; however, be able to mix it down to a darker grey (like Shadowed Stone) by mixing in some bleached linen (you do this in the second kit anyway).

 

Alternatively, you could also check out the second kit. The first mini in the kit is fairly straight forward (even for me as a beginner).  You can still refer to the techniques discussed in the first kit too, which you likely are already fairly familiar with based on your previous forays into the hobby.  At any rate, grats on the good start and just keep painting!

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Yep, washed them in lukewarm water with detergent in it. And then let them dry.

 

I don't have any Reaper Liner, so haven't primed with that. Actually, I decided just to follow the instructions in the booklet first (another reason I didn't clean off the seam-lines). That then gives me a baseline for future forays.

 

Unfortunately I've run into a problem with the next step, which requires a wash with Shadowed Stone (09085). My bottle of paint was horribly thick and it's full of little flakes of what appears to be cured black acrylic, so I'm a bit stymied at the moment. I've just emailed the good people at Reaper, so I'm sure they'll be able to help me out soon. In the meantime, I'm wondering if a wash of Ebony Flesh would double for the Shadowed Stone. ('Cos I really want to keep painting!)

I think that's a good idea to follow the instructions first, then branch out afterwards. You absolutely need a good foundation of the basics.

 

I also think that your instincts are good to just continue on with a different colour in the meantime. I can't imagine the wash being on the darker side really being a problem for a skeleton, but if you want to try to stick to as close to the instructions as possible while still forging ahead, I say go with Garg's suggestion to mix in a little white to bring it closer to the Shadowed Stone colour.

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Guindyloo makes a good point about the wash color and a skeleton.  I was a bit too concerned perhaps with trying to make sure the color was as close as possible.  But, it is a skeleton after all and the ebony flesh wash will do the job of shading the skeleton (and as a skeleton a darker wash shouldn't be a huge problem).  

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I'd recommend picking up at least 1 liner, especially if you're planning on painting a lot of bones. Then you can thin your paints without worry. Reaper paints aren't thick by any means, shake them like crazy and see if that helps. Did you email [email protected]? That's the best way to get a response and I'm sure they will take care of the issue. They're great that way. I agree with the others about the darker wash, go for it. When you're ready to remove those mold lines, sanding needles are very useful for areas it's hard to get at with an exacto.

 

Happy painting and thanks for sharing!

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Clogged nozzles are normal for MSP, but have the advantage of sealing up the bottle so they store better.  I clear the clogs with a pin or wire paperclip since it is fast and almost always works.  The alternative of popping the tip off and using a brush to dip paint is a pain.

 

It is interesting the Dirty Bone was the thickest of the lot.  Could be it sat around longer, though that's a lot of water you needed for a new paint.  I have gone 8+ years on some seldom-used paints before needing that much water to get them flowing again.  Hopefully, it is just a fluke and will be fine now.

 

You could still use the Shadowed Stone for terrain or things that don't need smooth paint.  If it froze, that can affect adhesion, so test it out.

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I think I will go ahead and try the Ebony Flesh (maybe with the Bleached Linen). I'm a bit limited in time at the moment because I don't have a good light source set up, so am relying on sunlight on my desk (and funnily enough I'm supposed to be working when the sun is shining!  ::D:  ) It might take a while to get this paint job done.

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The paint might have encountered very cold temperatures, which can freeze it and create those flakes. Do you live up north?

 

Nope. Down under. So maybe the carrier left the container out in the sun (we had some pretty hot days over Christmas).

 

I have never heard of heat issues.

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