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Dave Paints: Shadows of Brimstone: Guardian of Targa


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And we're back. The next few steps will be in rapid succession, as I finished them up during an episode of Penny Dreadful this morning.


Stage 4: Stipple on Reaper 29804 Rusty Red. Not too much, it's an HD paint, so a little goes a long way.








Stage 5: Stipple on Reaper 09111 Burnt Orange. Spread the spots around a little to make use of the innate transparency of the orange paint. Don't spread them too much, though, or you'll lose the orangeyness.









Stage 6: Same with Reaper 29807 Mustard Yellow. Again, it's an HD paint, but it's yellow, so...









Stage 7: Now on to AV 70.865 Oily Steel. This is very transparent when it goes on via stippling, which is okay. We just want the metallic properties, for now.









Stage 8: Thinly apply a layer (not a thinned layer, there's a difference, here) of P3 Armor Wash. It's kind of a purple-black-metallic wash. We need to get into all the grooves in the armor, and between all the armor plates, and into all the joints. If you want to do that another way, that's fine, too. The reason I do it this way is because it will also act as my first layer of shading, once I decide where my highlights and shadows will go. We'll be using more of this later. (Since my single-point lamp is on my left, the highlights will likely be towards the model's front-right.)








I'll be skipping a few steps, as "highlighting' consists of re-applying most (if not all) of the rusting stages in the area where the highlights will go, just avoiding the grooves, joints, and seams. "Shading" will be applying a few more layers of Armor Wash in the shadows, basically. The next photos will be after highlighting and shading are done, and I'll be starting to paint over the rust.

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Now that lunch is done, I've laid the basework for the highlights. Just a quick shot to show where they will be.







EDIT: As you can (maybe) see, I skipped highlighting the ball joints. Those are going to be relatively unweathered on the final product, so I'm not going to waste the paint. They got weathered because this much rust is messy to paint.

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interesting approach


The pictures after the P3 Armour Wash looked like they removed most of your earlier work with the weathering but your last seems to make it all jump back out.


Was that because you reapplied all of the weathering during the highlight stage or just the lighting situation in the pics (the highlight seems to be brighter lights)

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The weathering in the highlight areas was re-applied (and that photo was taken with the flash on, it was getting cloudy and overcast, and I'm not working with the best lighting). Normally this whole process kind of goes in reverse. I would do the weathered metal after I do the painted metal, but in this case, I wanted more exposed, weathered metal than painted metal.


Which is what I'll be starting on today: de-weathering.

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I've decided against putting "paint" on the mini, there's just too much going on with it already (in my head, the mini isn't there, yet). Highlights are finished on the ball joints, and the shading is finished on the main body. I've basecoated the tubing in AV 71.068 Copper, because who wants their necrotic fire running through flimsy plastic hoses? There's got to be some sort of safety regulation against that, anyway.


Without flash:







With flash (for comparison):








Next I'll be shading and weathering the copper tubing. Copper is less subject to oxidation than ferrous metals, so there will be less of it on the tubing, and it will be a mixture of green, turquoise, and maybe a tiny bit of white, since this is kind of what oxidized copper looks like:




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