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High Exemplar Kreoss by Privateer Press

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Not nearly as exciting as many of the Show Offs here, but part of my goal of continuing to paint, and to getting better, is to keep myself honest by posting as I go.  So here then is High Exemplar Kreoss by Privateer Press.  There are parts on here that I really like and parts that I know I still need to work on (in general).  For the most part, I'm pretty happy with how the shoulder pads in particular came out, while the gold parts are still giving me fits when I try to shade.  I know I really need to work on my paint consistency (I think) when shading the gold, but I also have decided to be satisfied in many instances with "good enough".  Part of this is to keep me painting and realizing that I'll only get better with time.  I do need to work on my blending some.  On the robes in particular there are some pretty hash transition lines, but I still feel I am well ahead of where I was even six months ago.  All in all, I think I met my goal of Table Top quality.

 

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post-12714-0-67563600-1484658594_thumb.jpg

 

post-12714-0-35519000-1484658615_thumb.jpg

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I like him!

 

Well done.

 

A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

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I like him!

 

Well done.

 

A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

Thanks, definitely one of the better models of done so far (not that I've done a lot yet).  Thanks for the tip on the wash, I tried using a brown and for the most part it just seemed to obliterate, rather than shade the gold, thinning it down even more is very likely the key.  There are parts (on the back of the helm) that came out a little better, but all in all I'm sure its just a matter of practice.

 

 

A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

Hey thanks for the tip!  I will admit that gold has been giving me issues but I'm just going to keep on practicing!  I used a little bit of New Gold to highlight the gold in a couple of places on the helm, but you're right, it definitely needs more.  Mainly I was afraid of making it over highlighted since I pretty much abandoned most of the shading and said "good enough"  :P  

 

I also appreciate the tip on the red highlights.  The darker red scheme (HD Dragon Red and P3 Sanguine Base) that I've been using for these guys has been challenging to highlight.  I haven't tried any oranges yet though, so that's a great tip for next time.  In the main I'm encouraged because I'm seeing progress, and everyone here is awesome with their tips!

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

And since metallic paint is not 100% opaque the color you paint the surface before applying the metallic makes a big difference.

Paint some gold over a black primed mini, a white primed mini, or one with red paint then the gold.

Not obvious but helps you get that mini just how you wanted it to look

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

And since metallic paint is not 100% opaque the color you paint the surface before applying the metallic makes a big difference.

Paint some gold over a black primed mini, a white primed mini, or one with red paint then the gold.

Not obvious but helps you get that mini just how you wanted it to look

 

 

 

Green with bronze works fine too..

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I did do a light brown undercoat on the gold parts (P3 Gun Corps Brown) but trying a few other colors isn't a bad idea.  I'm still building my collection and I will say the one color I'm not completely happy with yet is my golds (in part no doubt because of the shading issues I've had) but trying different under coats should help!

 

I will definitely try out the green with a bronze (just got the Dragon Bronze) and see how that works.  Do you have any suggestions for the silvers/steel colors?  I had heard about undercoating metallics of course, but never really got a good sense of what works well with silvers/steels.

 

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

And since metallic paint is not 100% opaque the color you paint the surface before applying the metallic makes a big difference.

Paint some gold over a black primed mini, a white primed mini, or one with red paint then the gold.

Not obvious but helps you get that mini just how you wanted it to look

 

 

 

Green with bronze works fine too..

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I did do a light brown undercoat on the gold parts (P3 Gun Corps Brown) but trying a few other colors isn't a bad idea.  I'm still building my collection and I will say the one color I'm not completely happy with yet is my golds (in part no doubt because of the shading issues I've had) but trying different under coats should help!

 

I will definitely try out the green with a bronze (just got the Dragon Bronze) and see how that works.  Do you have any suggestions for the silvers/steel colors?  I had heard about undercoating metallics of course, but never really got a good sense of what works well with silvers/steels.

 

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

 

 

A dark/dirt color under makes the metallic look dark/dirty.  Try out a few on a bones figure and see how they look

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Gotcha, will definitely do some experimenting. For science!

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Of the top of my head, I'm thinking blue if you want to go with a cooler (color temperature-wise) metallic, like Warhammer High Elves.  I've never tried it myself.

 

Experimenting is definitely the way to go.  Throw various combos down on scraps, paper, bottlecaps or minis that you just don't care about.

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Of the top of my head, I'm thinking blue if you want to go with a cooler (color temperature-wise) metallic, like Warhammer High Elves.  I've never tried it myself.

 

Experimenting is definitely the way to go.  Throw various combos down on scraps, paper, bottlecaps or minis that you just don't care about.

 

Cool (no pun intended), will definitely experiment with blue and other colors.  I do have plenty of stuff to experiment on at the moment and even with minis, there's always the Simple Green Bath available.  :)

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

And since metallic paint is not 100% opaque the color you paint the surface before applying the metallic makes a big difference.

Paint some gold over a black primed mini, a white primed mini, or one with red paint then the gold.

Not obvious but helps you get that mini just how you wanted it to look

 

 

 

Green with bronze works fine too..

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I did do a light brown undercoat on the gold parts (P3 Gun Corps Brown) but trying a few other colors isn't a bad idea.  I'm still building my collection and I will say the one color I'm not completely happy with yet is my golds (in part no doubt because of the shading issues I've had) but trying different under coats should help!

 

I will definitely try out the green with a bronze (just got the Dragon Bronze) and see how that works.  Do you have any suggestions for the silvers/steel colors?  I had heard about undercoating metallics of course, but never really got a good sense of what works well with silvers/steels.

 

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

 

 

 

Also, Blue under steel will work nice.

 

If you're looking for good metallic paints, I can recommend the Scale 75 paints.

 

You have to shake them firmly ( and you will need to open the tip with a needle for first use) but these are the best metallic paints around IMHO.

 

Check out their copper, steel and gold sets.

 

I have them all, and I must say I have never seen such good coverage from metallic paints before.

Most of my paints are either Reaper or Scale 75 and Vallejo.

P3 and GW paints are only leftovers and I will slowly replace them with one of the big 3.

Edited by Xherman1964
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That is a very great work! I just picked up the battlebox for Menoth and I am working on those and another project now but yours looks a whole lot better than mine!

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A little hint...gold can be shaded with a little brown wash.

Maybe that will help you next time?

 

And can be highlighted with a mix of gold/silver or straight silver.

 

Speaking of highlights, you can also use orange to highlight your reds.  Adding a bit along some of the creases and folds of the robes, along with various hard edges, might help them further stand out on the table.

 

Overall looks great.  I love the smooth transition of the shading on the pauldrons.  Good stuff!

 

 

And since metallic paint is not 100% opaque the color you paint the surface before applying the metallic makes a big difference.

Paint some gold over a black primed mini, a white primed mini, or one with red paint then the gold.

Not obvious but helps you get that mini just how you wanted it to look

 

 

 

Green with bronze works fine too..

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  I did do a light brown undercoat on the gold parts (P3 Gun Corps Brown) but trying a few other colors isn't a bad idea.  I'm still building my collection and I will say the one color I'm not completely happy with yet is my golds (in part no doubt because of the shading issues I've had) but trying different under coats should help!

 

I will definitely try out the green with a bronze (just got the Dragon Bronze) and see how that works.  Do you have any suggestions for the silvers/steel colors?  I had heard about undercoating metallics of course, but never really got a good sense of what works well with silvers/steels.

 

Thanks again for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

 

 

 

Also, Blue under steel will work nice.

 

If you're looking for good metallic paints, I can recommend the Scale 75 paints.

 

You have to shake them firmly ( and you will need to open the tip with a needle for first use) but these are the best metallic paints around IMHO.

 

Check out their copper, steel and gold sets.

 

I have them all, and I must say I have never seen such good coverage from metallic paints before.

Most of my paints are either Reaper or Scale 75 and Vallejo.

P3 and GW paints are only leftovers and I will slowly replace them with one of the big 3.

 

 

Thanks for the tip, my paints are all Reaper or P3 at the moment.  I've been using primarily Reaper for the metallics so far.  On Kreoss here, only the weapon shaft had a P3 paint (Cold Steel) everything else was Reaper.  I think the issue though was with a) the undercoat perhaps and b) the thickness/amount of paint on the brush when shading.  That said, I will definitely look into Scale 75.  I've been buying Reaper and P3 simply due to ease of acquisition, but as I start painting more and more I will definitely want to continue to branch out and try other lines. 

 

That is a very great work! I just picked up the battlebox for Menoth and I am working on those and another project now but yours looks a whole lot better than mine!

 

Thanks!  I do have a bit of an advantage though as this was not my first model (or even first WMH model).  I can honestly say, that the majority of the good stuff you see here is thanks to the Reaper Bones LTPK #2.  For whatever reason, the instructions in that kit just really clicked with me and made it a heck of a lot easier for me to get the shading/highlighting down, especially the blending part of it. 

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