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Corporea

02048: Jannus our Cleric through the years

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Then I moved on to the face.  I like to paint the face first, because I feel like the mini has some soul, and I hate painting eyes so as soon as I can get them done, the better.  This mini presents a challenge, since because of its age, the eyes are pretty small.  I cheat an bit and paint around them to make them larger.

 

jan3_zpsv5cdtgtg.jpg

 

What I've done is use terra nova tundra, golden skin, linen white and a bit of the mahogany brown.  I've learned to use similar colors in all areas of the mini to make the whole more harmonious.  So I'll use the smae highlight colors and many of the same colors to shade.  In this case, i want the mini to feel warm, so I'm going for a creamy white cloak and warm tones in the skin and hair.  The red will help with that.  All in all, the colors should be more yellow/brown than gray or blue.

 

White is one of those colors that will pick up shades from everything around it.  So you can shade it with just about anything, as long as you're careful.  I'll be using the golden skin to shade the white.

 

Linen white is a warm white, with a hint of yellow, so it will fit the highlight the hair, face and cloak.  leather white would look more gray, ghost white more green, etc.  I love buying up browns and grays and off-whites, because they'll completely change the tone of a mini based on color choices.  And they're fantastic to shade white!

 

jan4_zpsta8xxwxh.jpg

 

here's some early shading of the cloak, using the blonde hair, creamy ivory, linen white and eventually I'll get the pure white in there.  Pure white is fairly cold, so I'll want to not use much of it to keep the warmth.

 

Oh, and I guess I learned to stick my mini on a handle so I don't keep rubbing off my hard work by touching it with oily skin.  I like corks because they're light.  Hand fatigue can become a big deal with the larger heavier minis.

 

Next part is to put something vaguely like a symbol of St Cuthbert on his cloak.  Oh, and paint the red.  gotta do that, too.

 

Saint_Cuthbert_2_zps7xmurnjy.jpg

 

This was the original we used way back when.  However, I detest freehanding circles on an uneven surface.  they always end up funky.  So, I'll cheat.

 

hjan5_zpsng95jkv4.jpg

 

I've blocked in the design with mahogany brown.  I added a rim of red to the cape.  The reds I base in mahogany since reds tends to be fairly transparent colors.  It has to do with the non-toxic pigments we use.  The more opacifiers you add to red, the more it dulls the colors down and you end up with a less intense red.  So it will always be a trade-off for us as mini painters.  It just means more layers to get that bight shade I want.  I layered big top red down, leaving the mahogany in the crevices/corners, then added fire red.  I then use a bit of saffron sunset.  Sometimes with large areas I'll use lava orange as well, but this is a tiny mini and I skipped the step.  Then i'll glaze clear red over the orange to bring it back to red, but still have the shading visible underneath.  I love the clears for glazing.

 

edit: realized after I typed this I used the GOLDEN SKIN to shade the white.  silly me and my brain.  Good thing it's trapped in my skull or I'd forget it!

Edited by Corporea
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Puttering along.

 

jan6_zps7yj2kqud.jpg

 

I put this comparison because our minis have changed over time.  Admittedly, the KD figure is 32 mm, but a lot of the older reaper minis are not heroic scale, but much closer to the old school figures we had growing up.  Or at least me showing my age growing up...

 

jan7_zpsc1tcolhn.jpg

 

next, I'll tackle the armor.  I opted to go with gold, since again, it is warm, and should keep with the color scheme I want.  I base coated with the mahogany brown.  Metallics tend to also be fairly translucent, so using a basecoat will help.  I decided to choose TMM, since while it does not photo quite so well, looks more realistic and is better for a gaming piece.  I'll probably give this to our DM at some point for all his hard work over the years, but I'd like to bring the two minis to Reapercon this year to show the difference time and practice make in painting.

 

jan9_zpsgcrornmg.jpg

 

I think I'll change the pants to white.  But you can see the basecoated metallics.  I'm using the vallejo model air.  I love how bright they are.

 

And here's the two side-by-side thus far:

 

jan8_zpsallllqv8.jpg

 

The thing that most jumps out at me is the hair.  One would think that blonde means yellow, but not exactly.  this is blonde:

 

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it's the little things overall that make this painting journey fun!  Anyway, more soon.  I have a lot of touchups to do and more shading and puttering.  I'll have to base him, 'cause it wouldn't be my mini if it didn't have a fancy base!

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Yay, another fantastic Corporea WIP!!! :wub::bday::wub:

 

Thank you for explaining your reasoning behind your color choices; I find the way you do color inspiring, and I've attempted to incorporate some of your methods into my own style. ^_^

 

*takes ALL OF THE NOTES*

 

Huzzah!        

--OneBoot :D

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Yay, another fantastic Corporea WIP!!! :wub::bday::wub:

 

Thank you for explaining your reasoning behind your color choices; I find the way you do color inspiring, and I've attempted to incorporate some of your methods into my own style. ^_^

 

*takes ALL OF THE NOTES*

 

Huzzah!        

--OneBoot :D

I'll second that!

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This is great stuff Erin! I'm working on improving my whites/reds so this is very timely. What I'm getting is that I need to start using more layers and putting more thought into what colors I'm using ahead of time. I tend to start with one color and then start hunting around with something to work with it rather than have a game plan going in. I'll be stealing these recipes to play around and practice with.

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Awesome story, and I love the "beloved npc" aspect.  I also am glad to see others having held onto their first minis.  I look back at mine and even though I haven't gotten very far yet I can still see improvements.  

 

Also, I love the "based in red because of all the blood he had to wade through".  Of course, I am also primarily a GM, so there may be that.  :)

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I wish I could say there was a magic recipe for white.  the main problem is white is a reflective color.  technically, when thinking about light, white light (in the additive color model) is ALL the colors, while black would be the absence.  Fabric or areas that look "white" do so because they reflect nearly every wavelength.  Our brains interpret that as white.  but nothing is every truly white, because color doesn't exist in a vacuum, so we end up getting cast shadows on our white areas that help provide context for our brain.

 

This makes painting them problematic, because the more color we work into them, the less "white" they look.  that ever-dreaded "dirty" look.

 

I also love the way science and painting interact when it comes to the how and why we see what we see.

 

At any rate, I use a general rule to make at least 50% is not 75% of the surface area live in the white range.  But then, I can choose whatever I want to work as shadows.  Although I find reds often end up looking too pink.  I like using greens, blues, grays, browns, tans, flesh colors, etc.  Whatever might be nearby is a safe bet for white.

 

One of my favorite whites I painted was on this bust:

shennay7_zpsz6yo2vqr.jpg

 

...because I got to work in so many colors.  It was more of an artsy approach to white, and not something I could do on a small scale.

 

It helps to know what color range the off whites you're using have- so choosing a warm range of off whites versus and cool range.  I bought all of reaper's off whites.  they're like gold.  it's so much easier to use them, than to try to mix in the hint of color I want.

 

I'll take color and put them on a piece of watercolor paper to get a feel for what they really look like, since you can't always tell from the swatch or the bottle.  It's also fun to go to the house painting stores and look at the HUGE range of neutrals available.  Hold the cold ones up to next to the warm ones and see how varied our color range can be!

 

240px-Grays.svg_zpswv2m39es.png

 

I stole this image from the color temperature section of wikipedia.  each of these grays are mixed with 6% yellow or blue respectively.  See how they feel different?  So knowing ahead of time how you want the mini to feel or what its surroundings will be can help direct color choice.  Sunny day, dark dungeon, cold tundra... we have colors for that!

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Didn't get much done yesterday on account of trying to raise my smithing skill in Skyrim...

 

jan10_zpsw9xnhjpn.jpg

 

I forgot to mention, since this mini is an elf, I opted to resculpt the ears and add some more hair to make him look like the human cleric he is in the game.  In the old mini I just painted the ears with the hair color to "hide" them.  I like the modern approach better.  So, while the "perfect" mini may exist out there for a character, it's perfectly ok to get something close and fiddle with it to make it fit.  I enjoy that!

 

Mad kudos to reaper and dark sword's find your mini search engines- it does help me narrow my search down!!

 

At any rate, I did smooth out the skin a bit and repaint the basecoat on the boots and pants.  I like the color balance here better.  This will be my musing post on contrast.  While there are a lot of ways to get contrast, one of the simplest is light-dark. I studied art in school, so the concept of Chiaroscuro was something I loved learning about.  Caravaggio was a master of this, using extreme light next to dark to heighten the contrast.

 

david_with_the_head_of_goliath.jpg

 

So one reason why I feel the pants in this mini look better white, is because they are framed by the dark interior of the cape.  Plus they echo the cape color in another area, helping to tie the whole together.  I changed the boot color to terra nova tundra to echo the shadows in the face as well.  This is why I use a lot of the same colors in different parts of the mini.  It pulls everything together.

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slow progress.  I put Jannus on a base and smoothed a few areas out.  Nearing the end!  Now just have to do more than basecoat the base and we're all set for something awful like Return to Tomb of Horrors!

3dbf0dc6-e304-4c60-bc5c-220d380ada70_zpsjan12_zps4sblypmc.jpg

 

Jannus had a thing for squashing undead. The skelly is a bones model, cut into a few pieces.  I love bones for basing.  it makes it sooo much easier!  I debated replacing the wand with a mace as well, but I'm getting lazy...

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I love this so much. I have a large soft spot for Garrity sculpts, though they seem to hate me. The first two minis I ever painted were Garrity. Plus it's always a joy to watch you paint anything. 

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