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Hi!! my name is Katerina and I'm new to painting miniatures, I begun
with a miniature from NonSenseminiatures, the Barbarian, I buyed the
54mm because it's bigger and maybe easier to paint.
I asked some help to NonSense and he already made a base coat for me, I
would like to get some help for painting because I see too much
information and don't know were begin.
I already make painting but totally different
Also he gave for me a discount code Katerina10%, because he will sell my
It has been years since I posted here but it has also been a while since I painted anything.
This is a step-by-step tutorial for painting the Daggertooth King Lizard made by AntiMatter Games for ShadowSea. The way this model is painted is in steps that require the paint to completely dry before going to the next step. It is a lot of washes and glazes that build up on top of each other and not wet blending.
Step 1 was to prime entirely in white. Then in Step 2 the underside was painted with a mixture of Liquitex Muted Gray and Matte Medium, about 50/50, then thinned with a touch of water. By touch, I mean dipping the tip of the brush into water after putting the color on the brush. The ink mix needs to be thin enough to flow but not so thick it collects in thick pools.
Step 3 was to paint the top side with thinned Yellow Oxide from Golden Fluid Acrylics, mixed with Buttermilk (Americana Brand). More water was added to glaze this color onto the edges of the Muted Gray underbelly.
Step 4 was a shading step, where the underside was given a wash of Black Ink + Phthalo Blue ink (20/80), mixed with Matte Medium (50/50 of mixed color to medium). Black can overpower the color, so only a small amount is needed. The top side was given a wash of Burnt Sienna ink + Matte Medium (50/50). The inside of the mouth was given a wash of brick red paint mixed with black paint and a bit of matter medium. The underside was done first and allowed to dry. When painting the top side, the model was flipped upside down so that the ink did not run down onto the underside.
Sep 5 is something a little different. This is a glaze of thinned white paint to reduce the “intensity” of shadows and even things out. More layers were applied to the tops of muscles and areas that are highlight zones and to also make the belly lighter overall. The white paint was basic craft paint from Americana brand.
Step 6 was a glaze step. Glazes of Burnt Sienna ink, thinned with about 50% water, were painted on the upper body and head and Burnt Umber ink was applied to the top of the back. The claws and spikes were given a wash of Burnt Umber ink + black Ink + Matter Medium (50/50 with color).
Step 7 was to give paint some stripes. This was pretty simple, using black paint + Turquoise ink, thinned with water so it was translucent (maybe 60/40 water/color).
Step 8 was the basic highlight stage. Thinned Buttermilk color was painted on the top edge of scales to simulate light reflection while thinned white was used to highlight the legs and underside. This was done with a very small brush, unlike all of the previous steps. The spikes on the back were painted with more Burnt Sienna ink mixed with Buttermilk to blend them, then thinned Buttermilk for the edge highlights. Some final highlights were with thinned white on the top of the spikes.
Step 9. Final Highlights and Base. The claws were painted like the spikes in Step 8 while the teeth were glazed with white to build up brightness, then painted in the edges with pure white. Small details, like eyeballs were done here also, using bright yellow and orange for the eyeball and back pupil with a small white dot for the reflection. The base had rocks painted in gray paint and the ground a light tan. This was allowed to dry, then a wash of a mix of Raw Sienna + Turquoise ink + Matte Medium was applied. The ground was washed with Raw Sienna ink + Matte Medium. Highlights were made with the tan paint on a bristly brush (an old drybrush brush with bristles pointing all around). The paint was put on the tips of the bristles and stippled around to add some random patterns. A bit of thinned white was used to add some edges to the rocks. Then the while model was given a coat of Dullcote, which ended up being a bit glossy, but that’s how it goes sometimes.
So, I ordered the THF-03 Dynastron (which is pretty much MP-36 Megatron by Takara), and the joints in the arms were a bit loose.
So, I bought some nail polish to tighten those suckers up.
What I didn't know, was that Nail Polish removed paint from figures.
Even though I was using clear nail polish, the figure's paint that wasn't removed was stained.
This is a photo of the damage done. On the bright side, I did tighten the joints.
Could someone help me find out what type of paint was used, and what shade of silver?
By Treadhead Rad
I wanted to share a new campaign that I've just started:
Featuring a snap-fit modular design, MAV3RICK is a 3D printable kit that can be configured into a number of different vehicle variants:
Take a look, I'd love to know what you think.
Thanks for looking!
Not really sure where to put this question but this seems as good as any place.
Is reaper done making metal minis? I own well over 100 legendary and warlord mini's as all as most of the old dragons all in pewter and much prefer pewter to the bones line. I'm mostly interested in the beautiful new dragons that reapers been turning out, and will be with the next bones 4
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