Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I knew I should have put more points into the "find cool stuff in discount stores" skill.

 

I guess it's time to reroll.

 

 

 Lol...It's one of my favorite things to do, so I've gained a lot of XP over the years. :)

 

 Most of all I love the freedom that paying only a dollar gives me as far as experimenting and messing up goes. :)

 

Today, I picked up one of the mushroom houses to play with:

32798643931_1687a263f9.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a heads up to everybody that Dollar Tree has a new assortment of Fairy Garden stuff out again.  

 

They've mixed up the blisters a bit, so you can’t get the all-mushroom one any more.  And they have a new range of buildings.  They’re kind of small, but might work for halfling houses.

 

I included a nickel (it’s all I had) in the store photos to try and give a size reference.

 

 

 

947A5639-9BFE-4BAB-9E90-536349831184.jpeg

24FF9531-CBE2-4204-B72F-093D6F6AC9A8.jpeg

ADE2FFD4-A646-4976-8EA9-BDE7751931DF.jpeg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't even know about fairy gardens until my wife was looking for a stag figure for D&D. She came across one on an Etsy shop for a dollar. The seller even threw in three ladybugs which I haven't found a use for yet (I almost glued them into a dwarf's beard).20180228_183308.thumb.jpg.9432c65822fbf762b5ed86872a0c7b64.jpg

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice!  I really like the verdigris-and-bronze treatment on the mini-gazebo.  And those mushrooms are great!  I have a few giant mushrooms I've collected for Wonderland-themed games, but I could always use quite a few more, if I happen across something like this in one of the local dollar stores.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/28/2018 at 6:45 PM, Rat13 said:

I didn't even know about fairy gardens until my wife was looking for a stag figure for D&D. She came across one on an Etsy shop for a dollar. The seller even threw in three ladybugs which I haven't found a use for yet (I almost glued them into a dwarf's beard).20180228_183308.thumb.jpg.9432c65822fbf762b5ed86872a0c7b64.jpg

 

Oh deer.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By PhantomAquarist
      I did this one a while ago. My first attempt to recreate the painted version on the packaging. I'm just missing the foliage. This was super fun! :D




    • By boldfont
      I’ve struggled with a good marble in the past. There is room for improvement but it’s finally looking like marble. For anyone trying to learn this technique, start with green marble. It seems to be more forgiving. 

    • By Jordan Peacock
      I put in for a bag on the Black Friday sale, because ever since I was a kid, I had a certain fascination with the surprise element of grab bags ... and there's something especially fun about the assortment of random bits from SWM: "How can I make use of this oddball base / terrain bit?"

      Basically, the story behind the "Bag o' (Crud)" (that's not what it's actually called, but Wendy would be disappointed in me if I used that word in casual conversation) is that it's a bag of whatever assorted bits are on hand that aren't quite up to Secret Weapon Miniatures's usual production standards -- so there might be some bases with warping, or bubbles in the base near the edge, or breakage, etc.  I also notice a lot of variation in resin color, so maybe some are the result of testing out different resin types for casting.  Sometimes the bases show no discernible flaws at all, but that might simply be because he throws in a few random spare bits to fill out the bag if there's not enough "trash" around.

        In particular, I got some more "Shattered Ritual" bases of assorted sizes and styles.  (I got a big oval "Shattered Ritual" base, and actually bought one 120mm round-lipped "Shattered Ritual" base last Black Friday circa 2018.  I thought I could use the latter to base an Iron Kingdoms mini project, but never got around to it, as the campaign had already ended, and noises about possibly starting it up again got well snuffed out.)  I *love* this style, even though it's rarely a fit with the sorts of games I typically run. Basically, each base has an intricate collection of "magic circle" designs with a ruinous look, like some wizard's tower had circles-upon-circles interlinking with each other, and then SOMETHING WENT HORRIBLY WRONG. (And thus the "shattered" part.)

        The surface of the flooring is fairly smooth, but with lots of finely scribed detail that would be a pain to try to paint out by conventional means. However, I found a method that works for me:   1) Spray-paint it with white primer, right out of the bag. It seems as if there's just a tiny bit of residual mold release that collects in the "scribed" areas (or perhaps there's some other "surface tension" effect taking place), and the end result is that the paint tends to collect on the flat, top surfaces, but DOES NOT pool into the sharp scribed lines, so this actually *brings out* the detail more.   2) Once it has fully dried, I smear the surface, section by section, with Apple Barrel paints "Pewter" acrylic, then wipe it off, allowing the paint to "stain" the surface and especially the recessed areas. "Pewter" is a strange "dirty grey" color that has an ever-so-faintly yellow-green shift to it. It ends up turning the white-primered surface into what looks (to my eyes) something like aged porcelain, with a faintly grimy yellowish tint to the surface, and a dirty-grey "stain" that brings out the scribed lines. Sometimes in the course of wiping off the excess, I will catch some of the paint in the recesses, so I go back later (after it has dried) to do some touch-up work where needed.   3) I apply some brown wash to the exposed "ground" areas where cracks between the "magic circles" have given way. If some of this brown splashes onto the surface, I just wipe it away, and any resulting "stain" just adds to the grimy effect of the ruins.   4) Using a fine liner brush, I trace the thicker border lines around the circles with Golden Yellow (not a particularly BRIGHT yellow), and then go back with a very little bit (at a time) of watered-down Pumpkin Orange to tint random parts of the golden-yellow for a little color variety. (Burnt Sienna would probably work well, too.)   5) Also using a fine liner brush, I go in and do some spot tinting of some of the circles, symbols, and other shapes (but not all!) with various pastel or otherwise reduced-saturation paint colors (Barnyard Red, French Blue, Denim Blue, Pewter, Olive, etc.), slightly watering down if necessary, as I want a *hint* of color, not solid, garish spots. It's perfectly fine if the colors are "dirtied" a bit, or the coverage isn't complete, since a bit of *wear* would be appropriate.

        Here's "Fiametta" (Soda Pop Miniatures - "Relic Knights" - heroine from "Doctrine" faction) painted up and based on the rounded-lip "Shattered Ritual" base I got from the latest Bag o' Crud ... on top of the oval base I got in last year's Bag o' Crud ... on top of a Tablescapes "Forgotten City" tile set.  "Doctrine" is basically this faction centered around a "magical academy" in Relic Knights, so the "mook" forces are a bunch of magic-school kids (boring looking guys in school uniforms, and girls in really short skirts, all waving wands), with most of the heroes either being "teachers" or other "staff" at the school, plus a few special "graduates" ("mahou shoujo" types, mostly).  The faction color is yellow/gold, so I used it for the base rim, and also used it as a recurring element for the magic circles on the Shattered-Ritual bases.
       
    • By Jordan Peacock
      Recently, Modiphius released an STL model of the Corvega Coupe, so fans can 3D-print their own (provided they have access to a 3D printer, of course).  I am fortunate enough to have a friend (Chris Thesing) who actually has *two* 3D printers.  He printed off two runs of the model: one in lower resolution on his older PrintrBot Plus printer (using Solutech PLA filament), and another using his newer, higher-resolution resin printer.
       

      ^^^
      The PLA filament version of the model.  This model prints in two pieces -- one for the undercarriage and wheel hubs, and another for the upper body shell.  Alas, there are no tires, and no separate segments for the gull-wing doors, windows, hood, trunk, etc.  This was printed flat on the bed, and due to the low resolution this of course means a lot of striation on those gently curving surfaces.  (This is how it looked after an initial spritz of white spray primer, as the sheen of the bare plastic was problematic for taking photos of the detail, such as it is.)
       

      ^^^
      On the right is the resin-printed version of the same model.  First off, it's a much higher resolution, but also Chris tried printing it at a 45-degree angle (supported by temporary scaffolding) as he's seen several others do.  I'm not quite sure about the advantages of doing this, but I think it makes a difference, because the curved surfaces of the hood, roof, and trunk are very shallow curves.  Actually, I think if the car were put up straight on its bumper, there'd be the best result, because each of the slices across the car would have a minimum variation of width from one to the next, versus the big jumps in footprint area to each layer when the car is printed right-side-up.  That's just my notion, however; there might be factors I'm unaware of that are contributing to this.
       
      Anyway, on the left is the PLA car, but I've gone back with some sandpaper to try to smooth it out a bit.  The trouble is, I noticed that I'd utterly *destroyed* the shallow scribing detail of the gull-wing doors on the roof, and I was in danger of obliterating the Chryslus symbol on the hood and other such things, so I called it quits after a bit, and hoped I could make up for it by camouflaging the striation with "rust paint" effects.
       
       

       
      Here's a side-by-side of the two models now that each one is a little closer in terms of where I am in the process.  The green car on the left is the PLA model (you can still see the striation despite my sanding), whereas the resin one is the red one on the right.  I went in and painted the window areas and chrome detail in grey, and splashed some paint on the PLA undercarriage in preparation for making it look a bit rusted out.  At this point, I pretty much decided that the resin car is going to look pretty much intact, though a bit grungy, with the thought that it's a car that's been restored Post-War, or has somehow otherwise been kept in relatively good condition.  (I could after all use it as a "show car" for my "Chryslus Show Room" scenario.)
       
       
    • By lexomatic
      So I got a newsletter with super early (2020) kickstarter tease (image behind the spoiler).
       
       
  • Who's Online   31 Members, 2 Anonymous, 32 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...