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Pingo

Requesting refresher-primer on assembling, gluing resin

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Just checking.  I am soon to assemble my first small-scale multipart resin miniatures, the sort with a number of possibly fiddly bits (Eyeballing them quickly, it looks like things like arms were fairly well-designed, with integral pin/pegs and corresponding shoulder holes already provided).

 

I have assembled great slabs o' resin  before, but this is the first delicate resin I've had to glue.  On the whole I favor epoxy as glue, but would cyanoacrylate glue be a better choice for little minis?  Any tips?

 

The figures are more or less Egyptian-style cat people ("The Republic of Khaliman") from a French skirmish game called "Alkemy", if that makes a difference.  Lots of thin little tails and arms.

Edited by Pingo
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Sounds fun!

 

Ffirst off of course, pre-fit all the pieces after cleaning flash lines.  And depending on the complexity of the model, maybe decide on an order in which you attach the parts too.I'd recommend CA glue, though gel or free-flowing is largely up to you for small pieces.  If your glue bottle's tip has seen better days (ahem...mine's had about 1/4" or .3cm cut off already) and doesn't have a fine hole, you may want to use a toothpick to control how the glue is applied.  Dip the stick/applicator in the glue, wipe off excess, and only apply exactly what you need.  And do be careful of overfill--that haze is hard to remove.

 

Cheers!

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I think it may depend on your epoxy.  Around here, the only epoxies I have been able to find have nozzles that are way too large to really work well for tiny areas, so I have used CA for mine (I use Gorilla brand glue, but not sure it really matters).  One thing you can do too is to add a tiny bit of green stuff into the join as well to really get a good bond.  I would tell you to make sure you really scrub the parts down and to rough up the parts that are connecting with each other a bit, but I assume you already know that.  :)

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12 hours ago, BLZeebub said:

Sounds fun!

 

Ffirst off of course, pre-fit all the pieces after cleaning flash lines.  And depending on the complexity of the model, maybe decide on an order in which you attach the parts too.SECONDLY, WASH WITH A GREASE REMOVING SOAP TO REMOVE MOLD RELEASE. I'd recommend CA glue, though gel or free-flowing is largely up to you for small pieces.  If your glue bottle's tip has seen better days (ahem...mine's had about 1/4" or .3cm cut off already) and doesn't have a fine hole, you may want to use a toothpick to control how the glue is applied.  Dip the stick/applicator in the glue, wipe off excess, and only apply exactly what you need.  And do be careful of overfill--that haze is hard to remove.

 

Cheers!

FTFY. Although Pingo probably knows to wash the mini. With Resin, I wash before I glue and again before painting.  Helps to remove any wayward resin dust from the cleanup and mold release that may prevent the glue from sticking. :poke:

Edited by Bloodhowl
'cause me spel gud.
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Just checked the pictures of the minis(Augh! this is going to be costly... Too many nice sculpts... ), and it looks like tails will be the biggest issue all over. (not that the weapons won't be at risk, but they have straight edges to help you align the bits when gluing them back together) 

It'll be difficult to paint tails separately from the bodies and glue them in afterwards without ending up with uneven paint or gaps, so they may need to be mounted before painting. you will need a wide holder for them, maybe a weighted film canister or one of those holders with the metal loop those Germans make. Something that is wider than the minis, so that if the holder is knocked over, there's no danger of the mini itself hitting the table. 

 

When working with 'very fiddly bits' I use a pair of tweezers I've modded by threading on narrow 'heat shrink' tubing that I've shrunk down to stick fast.(most heat shrink tubing have heat activated glue on the inside) Makes for a less damaging grip. 

(I actually have two such pairs, one straight and one with bent tips)

 

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Resin is so soft and easy to pin that I recommend pinning everything.  Even if it comes with premolded "pins" I would still go ahead and replace them with some small 0.5-0.75 mm wire. 

 

If you want to paint the tails and such separately you could pre-fill the gap.  I'm assuming you know how to do this so just consider it a reminder.

 

I personally use CA glue because it is convenient, but in principle you could use epoxy.  Just mix it on some foil and apply with a toothpick. 

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I'm in a bit of the same situation with my minotaur. It's mostly resin with some white metal fiddly bits. My plan was to coarse-sand off the primer on the contact surfaces and use 5-minute epoxy and pins in some parts, CA in others; largely depending on how self-stable the gluing position is or if I would have to hold the joint in place by hand. Applying constant, stable pressure by hand for 5 minutes is not impossible, but it is unpleasant.

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On 3/12/2017 at 8:40 AM, Gadgetman! said:

Just checked the pictures of the minis(Augh! this is going to be costly... Too many nice sculpts... ),

 

On 3/12/2017 at 10:31 AM, tiniest rhombus said:

Nothing to add, just those cat people are :wub:

 

Good golly. :blink:   I had assumed these were out of print.  I got 'em at rock-bottom clearance prices a few years back because yay, cat people, along with the news that the game had gone out of business, or something like that.

 

I guess it's had a new lease on life, so yay for that (Although I hope to goodness they redo the little thumb-sized rulebooks.  They were a visual atrocity, with their fussy, busy typeface laid right on top of fussy, busy greyscale illustrations.).

 

Their current prices seem fair for the figures (they really are exquisite), but wowsers, way more than I paid.

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