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Help with separating paints


Nunae
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Hey there,

I've a problem with a few of my paints. I'm using Vallejo game colors and I'm happy with them, but some bottles just keep separating, even though they're all stored the same way. Greens seem to have the most problems.

I'm already shaking them quite well, but I don't seem able to get those colors out of the bottle the way I want to.

At this point I'd really appreciate some pointers.

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Well, I did get them all at once for Christmas (my father got a bit overly excited with me wanting to paint minis, since it's the only hobby I have he understands). 

They all came in one big box, and I don't think they ever froze. 

What's puzzling me is the fact that the more green a color has, the more problems it has.

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Some Vallejo paints are a bit more prone to separation than others. I haven't tried any of their game colors but the model and panzer aces colors are harder to mix than my other paint brands. I always add a 6 or 8mm round Hematite bead (Amazon) to my Vallejo paints to help mix them when shaking. It gets much easier once the bottle isn't as full as they are when they are new. I doubt there's anything wrong with your paint. It's a very common issue. I also bought a used vortex mixer to make mixing easier, but a bead and some shaking also does the trick. 

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I have a number of Vallejo paints. It is perfectly normal for them to separate, and some colors will do it more than others.  While hematite beads are popular on this forum I actually use tin round split shot 3/0.  It has a higher density than hematite for improved agitator action.

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55 minutes ago, Auberon said:

I have a number of Vallejo paints. It is perfectly normal for them to separate, and some colors will do it more than others.  While hematite beads are popular on this forum I actually use tin round split shot 3/0.  It has a higher density than hematite for improved agitator action.

Here's to split shot!

I use size 4 though....

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37 minutes ago, knarthex said:
1 hour ago, Auberon said:

I have a number of Vallejo paints. It is perfectly normal for them to separate, and some colors will do it more than others.  While hematite beads are popular on this forum I actually use tin round split shot 3/0.  It has a higher density than hematite for improved agitator action.

Here's to split shot!

I use size 4 though....

 

The shot needs to be small enough to fit in through the bottle neck (obviously) but large enough that it does not wedge into the tip and clog it.  If it meets that criteria it should work fine. 

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Thanks for the tipps!

Since English isn't my first language I gotta ask though: the round split shot is ... fishing supply? 

And the Hematite beads are gemstones? I only found jewelry with those, in what context are they sold individually?

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28 minutes ago, Nunae said:

Thanks for the tipps!

Since English isn't my first language I gotta ask though: the round split shot is ... fishing supply? 

And the Hematite beads are gemstones? I only found jewelry with those, in what context are they sold individually?

 

Yes.  Round split shot is a kind of small metal sphere with a slit in it used as weights on fishing lines.  Once it was all lead, now apparently other metals are used.

 

Hematite is a semiprecious stone.  Hematite beads can be found at the sorts of places that sell beads and supplies to make one's own jewelry.

 

The principle here is to have an agitator bead of a nonreactive material, one that will not chemically interact with any of the paint ingredients, to help mix the paint from the inside when the bottle is shaken.

 

To be honest, I am not confident that split shot or any other metal is fully reliable in wet paint.  Hematite works because it is a fully oxidized iron.  I prefer glass agitators when I use them.

 

One problem is that agitator beads can get stuck in bottle tips.

 

And to be honest again, I feel that agitators are not as good or as fast or thorough as opening the paint bottle and giving it a good stir with a bamboo skewer before use.

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Tin is pretty corrosion resistant in water.  In fact, one of its major uses is in plating, such as to protect steel from rusting.  The classic "tin can" is a steel can which has been coated in tin, and if it can survive the horror that is Campbell's condensed tomato soup I give it pretty good odds with most paint.  I'll have to defer to knarthex for long term use, but I have had no issues over a couple of years.  That said, you can destroy tin with concentrated acids and bases but I hope hobby paints don't qualify.

 

I do not recommend glass beads for Vallejo.  I have tried them and they are not very effective in the paints that really settle out.

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Reaper used pewter skulls as you said, Gadgetman.  They stopped using them because it was cheaper to use whatever beads they're using now.  

 

I rarely need any extra agitation in my old MSPs with pewter skulls in them.  I use the fishing weights they sell as "lead free" which look like pewter, but don't say that anywhere on the package.  I know from years of use they don't oxidize in water or water-based acrylic paint.  

 

Since I noticed I was getting pain in my hand from shaking paints, I turn to a Dremel-powered spinner when I need to agitate a lot of paint.  I didn't think spinning would work all that well, but it works with my collection of Reaper paints.

 

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