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Couvs

77051: Orc Stalker: Second ever paint job

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Good job, an excellent start to your journey!

 

I'm pretty new at this myself and I can honestly say that eyes really are pretty difficult.  Yours look pretty good for a first attempt.  I can tell you that what I do is fill the eye in with white, then get a brush with a really good point on it and just lightly dab a dot of black in the center for the pupil.  I haven't even attempted to do irises yet.  :p  Even that still frequently takes several attempts, so don't fret.  The best thing you can do is to simply continuing practicing.  All in all this looks really good.

 

One of the thins you may learn in the future is that metallic paints in general can have difficulties getting good coverage (because they are somewhat see-through).  So a lot of the time what works is to give them an undercoat before applying the metallic.  You'll find that the color of the undercoat will then affect the color of the metallic somewhat and you can have fun experimenting with different colored undercoats.

 

So, keep up the good work and keep posting!

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Overall this is a pretty good go at it for your second figure.  You can clean up around the eyes with just a little bit of green paint on your brush and cover the white that is outside the area of the eyes.  You can do the same with some brown where the metallic paints got on the leather portions of the armor.  Just make sure you don't have too much paint loaded on your brush.  I probably spend more time cleaning up stray strokes than anything else on a figure.  You'll find that most people struggle with eyes to varying degrees, so you're not alone.  As with most other things it comes with practice.

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1 hour ago, Gargs said:

Good job, an excellent start to your journey!

 

I'm pretty new at this myself and I can honestly say that eyes really are pretty difficult.  Yours look pretty good for a first attempt.  I can tell you that what I do is fill the eye in with white, then get a brush with a really good point on it and just lightly dab a dot of black in the center for the pupil.  I haven't even attempted to do irises yet.  :p  Even that still frequently takes several attempts, so don't fret.  The best thing you can do is to simply continuing practicing.  All in all this looks really good.

 

One of the thins you may learn in the future is that metallic paints in general can have difficulties getting good coverage (because they are somewhat see-through).  So a lot of the time what works is to give them an undercoat before applying the metallic.  You'll find that the color of the undercoat will then affect the color of the metallic somewhat and you can have fun experimenting with different colored undercoats.

 

So, keep up the good work and keep posting!

 

Thanks!  I was trying to attempt what was in the directions, using a diluted black to darken the eye socket and then get a thin stripe of partly diluted white and then finally the dot for the eye.  I was having a bit of trouble getting t he right amount of white loaded on so it kept filling up the whole eye socket.  I'm gonna see if I can find a local store that has the 77042 Orc Marauder in stock and give it a run. 

 

So for the undercoat for the  metallic I could've painted over the blades with either a white or stone grey first and then done the steel?  I'll keep that in mind for next time!

 

24 minutes ago, Sergeant_Crunch said:

Overall this is a pretty good go at it for your second figure.  You can clean up around the eyes with just a little bit of green paint on your brush and cover the white that is outside the area of the eyes.  You can do the same with some brown where the metallic paints got on the leather portions of the armor.  Just make sure you don't have too much paint loaded on your brush.  I probably spend more time cleaning up stray strokes than anything else on a figure.  You'll find that most people struggle with eyes to varying degrees, so you're not alone.  As with most other things it comes with practice.

 

at a later time I'll see about touching up the areas where I got some stray honed steel on the leather.  are there brushes with a finer point than the #0 round?

I also noticed after posting the pictures that I forgot to dry brush the smaller chain mail areas around the sides of his midsection. that's another technique that's going to take me a bit of practice; a lot of the time when I've been wiping the paint onto the paper towel and then gone to dry brush even after several strokes I wasn't seeing any difference on the surface.  other times I didn't get enough off the brush (I think i got a bit of the steel paint into the links of the chain in spots).

 

looking forward to getting more practice in.  I still have 77148 Mangu Timur left to do from the kit and I've also got a 77388 Gnoll Warrior that I'm still trying to decide what colours I want to use... my first though twas to mix a little black with harvest brown for his main body and maybe a little darker shade for the hair along his spine. I'd like to see what I can accomplish with the paints that came with the kit before I go on a shopping binge for more colours :D

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50 minutes ago, Couvs said:

So for the undercoat for the  metallic I could've painted over the blades with either a white or stone grey first and then done the steel?  I'll keep that in mind for next time!

 

 

at a later time I'll see about touching up the areas where I got some stray honed steel on the leather.  are there brushes with a finer point than the #0 round?

 

 

Yup, white or stone grey would work well with steel.  I usually don't need as much of an undercoat with steels simply because I tend to prime with black.  White may not give as much coverage, but the stone should work well.

 

As for the point of the brush, there are smaller brushes than a #0, but the real issue tends to be the quality of the brush and how well it comes to a point.  Eventually you may want to invest in better brushes, but you really don't need to yet if you are still trying to see if this is a hobby you'll enjoy for the long run.  (The more expensive brushes can cost $15-$20 a pop, but they are worth it in the end).

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8 minutes ago, Gargs said:

 

Yup, white or stone grey would work well with steel.  I usually don't need as much of an undercoat with steels simply because I tend to prime with black.  White may not give as much coverage, but the stone should work well.

 

As for the point of the brush, there are smaller brushes than a #0, but the real issue tends to be the quality of the brush and how well it comes to a point.  Eventually you may want to invest in better brushes, but you really don't need to yet if you are still trying to see if this is a hobby you'll enjoy for the long run.  (The more expensive brushes can cost $15-$20 a pop, but they are worth it in the end).

 

Good to know, thanks again.  I do think I might end up continuing to do this if I can.  For now I"m just using the #0 round and the #2 flat that came with the kit.  Still being very new to this, I'm not sure how they compare to the $15-20 brushes you're talking about. 

 

One thing that did seem to be making it more difficult was I seemed to have a trailing bristle or hair coming off the very tip of the round brush.  not sure if I somehow screwed up the brush or what, I thought I was being careful, not leaving brushes sitting brush down in the water container etc.  I'm always setting the handles down flat somewhere out of the way when not in immediate use while painting and putitng them back in the package they came in to store them in the kit box.

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The brushes that come with the kits are not terrible by any means but they won't last as long.  I do have issues from time to time with them keeping their points tho.  A couple things to try:  1) after getting some paint on your brush, lightly brush it along your palette or a paper towel.  That will help shape it back to a point.  2) Get some brush soap/cleaner and use that every couple of sessions.   It will also help out quite a bit.

 

I will say the kits are great value, and even if the brushes are not great, they are still worth holding onto for those jobs you don't want to abuse a good brush with.

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He looks great - well done!

 

A small tip I could offer for the eyes is to paint in a black or dark brown line along the top edge of the white of each eye ball, underneath the eyebrow (basically where the eyelashes would be) then paint the pupil(s) so that it's top quarter/half is actually in this "eyelash" line. This can help to prevent any "staring" & give a more natural look. ::):

 

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Great start! I found YouTube videos about eyes helpful. I think Dr. Faust's video in particular was the one that helped me the most. 

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