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By Al Capwn
I don't have a blog, and I am not veteran or post enough content to justify making one - so while these musings may be better served in that format, I will leave it here for anyone who is interested to view and chime in. It just so happens that my best friend happens to work at Rustoleum as a colorist; so lately I have been picking his brain since he has an extensive knowledge about pigments, paint make up, and the chemical intricacies therein.
As I have delved further and further into the hobby, I have been looking more into the deep subjects of color theory and how paint is made/composed. After reading James Gurney's Color and Light, as well as Michael Wilcox's Blue & Yellow Don't Make Green, I was really intrigued about what exactly paint is and how exactly color interactions work. Now I am guilty as the next person in owning WAY too many paints - not to say anything about minis!
While color mixing may seem irrelevant to some, understanding how paints function can help even those of us who own a complete gamut of convenience mixed colors. This post is about exploring more of the technical and "scientific" aspects of paint and color theory to hopefully assist others in understanding the what and why of paint.
Rethinking Paint Colors - Subtractive Color:
Up until recently, I have always viewed the primary colors as Yellow, Red and Blue, and with those you can mix secondary colors; Green, Orange, and Purple. While this is technically true after a fashion, the difficulty lies with pigments themselves. Pigments do not actually *contain* color. Instead, they absorb most of the light spectrum *except* a specific wavelength of color. As Michael Wilcox states, "Of all the pigments available to the painter, none can be described as pure in hue. There is simply no such thing as a pure red, yellow or blue paint." That means chemically, there isn't a paint pigment out there that returns a pure Red - unlike in say digital art where a specifically purely calibrated hue can be made, paint is limited by the properties of the physical pigments themselves.
As Michael Wilcox theorizes with a colour bias wheel (bottom-right), primary pigments almost certainly lean towards secondaries. This follows the concept of the Munsell Wheel (bottom-left). You may have heard of a split-complimentary color palette, and this is the reason why. Artistically, these have been described as "Warm" and "Cool" versions of the primaries, but scientifically, they are colors that absorb or reflect more of a particular wavelength. There are Violet-Reds (Cool Reds, often called "Crimson") and Orange-Reds (or Warm Reds, that lean more towards Orange), Violet-Blues and Green-Blues, and Orange-Yellows and Green-Yellows.
One the concepts to understand when mixing paints is that you are not creating a color, but rather you are effectively destroying colors and what remains is what is returned to the eye. Referencing the above color bias wheel, if you were to mix a Violet-Blue and a Violet-Red together, both containing pigment(s) that return a great deal of Violet wavelength, the little remaining Blue/Orange and Red/Green wavelengths in each pigment would cancel each other out, leaving the Violet behind. This would yield a more saturated or more pure hue of Violet. Conversely, mixing a Green-Blue and a Orange-Red ("Warm" Red) would be a very desaturated Violet, with more of a gray tone.
Keep in mind that this doesn't make a color "bad"; desatured tones by including more complimentary colors is a very useful tool! In fact, for making shadows, using a great deal of complimentary colors to desaturate is a great technique. The problem is when these colors come about unexpectedly; after all, you can have a very "intense" Red and a very "intense" Blue, but mixing them may not produce a very intense Violet if they are "moving away" from each other.
Now that is all being said, it is time to forget it...sort of. RGB is based upon the concept of Additive Mixing, or how colored light interacts. With additive mixing, fully saturated Red/Green/Blue light will produce White light. However, in paint pigments, it should be pretty obvious that mixing pigment primaries of Red/Yellow (or Green)/Blue together will not yield White. This is due to Subtractive Mixing, where pigments effectively destroy each other ala Thunderdome in Mad Max, and only the survivors reflect light back.
A more modern approach to color theory and pigments is CMYK or Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and "Key" (or commonly known, Black). Adding these colors into the standard primaries gives us the "Yurmby" wheel. If you have looked at a color printer, for example, the colors used are NOT Blue/Red/Yellow, but rather Cyan/Magenta/Yellow. This is because due to the subtractive nature of pigment/ink mixing. These colors present a larger printable gamut (i.e. range) of color; for example, without White, it is difficult to produce a Pink tone with Red vs Magenta. A thin Magenta will read more Pink than a thin Red.
Printers do not use White ink and instead leverage the paper for white, effectively printers are printing in an underpainting style. However, we as artists DO use White pigments and this makes things a bit more complicated as we do work with Tints (White) and Shades (Black).
Like most science, the direct answer regarding an accurate color wheel is: it is complicated. For observable light, there is a bit more consistency and repeatability. However, when working with "tiny wavelength absorbing/reflecting mirrors" of pigments, things become a bit more complex. Additionally, there are other aspects that that go beyond the basics, such as the effect of specular and perception of color. It gets really heady when you start dipping into Kubelka-Monk Theory and K/S.
Most paint is made up of 3 parts:
Pigment - particles that absorb and reflect certain wavelengths of light.
Binder - The 'medium' or 'glue' which holds the pigment in suspension and forms a film. For acrylic paint, this is the actual acrylic part.
Solvent - The liquid that allows paint to be viscous; as it dries, it allows the binder and pigment to harden forming the film. For acrylic paint, the solvent is water.
Adjusting the ratios of these can have some interesting, and sometimes disastrous effects in terms of the stability of the paint. For example, introducing too much solvent, and the binder and pigment lattice structure can break apart. This can cause "coffee staining" or splotchy spots where the bonds pull apart, leaving areas without a film at all.
The pigments in paint are held in a suspension. Like hot chocolate mix, there are tiny particles that are suspended in a liquid. Given enough time or evaporation, the liquid will leave these granules behind. If you have ever mixed a packet of Swiss Miss cocoa, you know that the mix can settle at the bottom - and that attempting to add dry powder to a liquid is more difficult than adding a liquid to a dry powder. This is another reason why mixing your paints is important because it is easy for the heavier pigments to tend to settle out of the binder/solvent solution.
Speaking of solutions, that is the main difference between paints and inks. Inks, specifically alcohol inks that use dyes, are a solution. The staining dye actually becomes homogeneous with the liquid. Just like dissolving sugar or extracting coffee/tea, there isn't any particulates that separate out. However, most dyes are not lightfast - a property that will be discussed in more detail further. Acrylic inks that use pigments are not "true" inks insomuch as they are composed just like an acrylic paint. The difference being the smaller size of the pigments and the viscosity of the binder/solvent being much thinner.
Outside of the 3 main components for paint composition, there are also some optional additives that some manufacturer's include in their paint. These can be things such as:
Extenders/retarders, which delay the setup of the paint film, allowing for more mixing to occur before drying. Thinners, which dilute the pigment to binder ratio, usually increasing translucency and viscosity - commonly this is done with water for acrylic paints. Flow Aid, which reduces the surface tension of paint, allowing it to flow more easily and level - Reaper is known for adding a bit of flow aid into their formulation. Opacifiers, which increase the opacity of a paint - usually some type of calcium or bicarbonate. Matting agents, which reduces the glossiness of acrylic medium. Fillers, which are commonly used in student or inexpensive paints to reduce cost and add mass without adding more pigment.
You can add some of these additives yourself to your favorite brand of paint to adjust the handling qualities. The most commonly added is solvent/thinner in the form of water to "thin your paints" to reduce the viscosity and lower the overall density of the paint, building up multiple thinner layers of paint films in a "layering" fashion.
Hi everyone, here's another Dungeon Dwellers model. 07012, Caerindra Thistlemoor was sculpted by Bobby Jackson. I painted it with Reaper’s MSP acrylics, shaded with Citadel inks, used Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish and 3D printed the base. Her left eye is not as sharp as I'd like it to be, she seems to have a black eye, I will need to fix this.
And welcome to my weathering class.
No. Not WEATHER - WEATHERING. So more like this:
After having worked on some vehicles for quite some time and having recently finished some tanks in winter camouflage (check out ->here<-, ->here<- and ->here<-), I was asked to do a tutorial and explain some weathering techniques.
That said, I have to be honest and want to make clear that I LOVE to overdo it, so that things pop out on the table. If that's too much for you, you need to adjust on your vehicles and stuff accordingly.
As it is hard to give an overview over the topic of weathering and find THE solution to all the different approaches of aging a vehicle, house or other mechanical thing, I will use different vehicles and techniques and explain everything in order for every vehicle I work on - so maybe a technique that suits you won't be done in the first tutorial, but in a later work. So please be patient.
First off: If you want to see some people doing great stuff with different models and weathering techniques, check out these channels on Youtube:
->Plasmo - Plastic Models<- ->Andy's Hobby Headquarters<- ->Doctor Fausts Painting Clinic<- ->Laser Creation World<-
They may answer some questions you have and provide in-depth sight into the process of weathering a vehicle or building (which means: this tutorial is basically meaningless - haha)
Anyway: Let's get started!
Table of Contents:
Going the first mile (How to plan and to start) (Under construction)
Finally got around to take pictures of my Warhammer diorama.
I entered it into a local competition, and was lucky enough to win the Warhammer category. Thanks to everyone who wrote a comment in the WIP thread.
Link here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/81383-warhammer-diorama-pic-heavy/
..Sorry for the overload of pictures! -could'nt help myself..
Although on these pictures I can see many mistakes, I am quite happy with it.
Hope you enjoy it, and as always any comment, critiq or question is welcome.
So I'm branching out from typical miniatures and trying something new. My son has really been into Hotwheels lately, and it turns out that there's an entire Hotwheels Customization culture out there much like the minis we like to paint. I put two and two together and figured why not try it out? So, here's the WIP (some of it at least) of the Fairlady 2000 I'm currently working on. Besides, if it ends up horribly, Hotwheels are only .94 cents at Wally World
Unfortunately, I got the bright idea to WIP after I was pretty much done painting as much as I'm going to on the first go-round. However, here's the comparison between the Yellow "stock" Datsun and the Orangy one I've painted.
Also, the various components of the build that I've worked on.
Finally, the installing of new axles and Red Rider wheels found on the more "premium" versions of Hotwheels. I may use the donor truck as a future "distressed" diorama if I feel froggy enough. The floorboard is also painted a metal shade as you can kind of see it in the interior if you bother to try to see it. I just finished gluing the axles and wheels in about five minutes ago, so it'll have to sit for a bit to dry. If all goes well, I'll have completed my first custom Hotwheel. I'll be able to zoom across the table in a one of a kind upgrade. WHHHEEEEEEEEE!!!!
I'll post final pics after everything's dry and fitted. Thank you for checking it out!
P.S.: Thos pics are tiny! I'll post larger ones in the Show Off when it's done. I apologize for the oversight
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