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By Dilvish the Deliverer
So I've been printing the Fat Dragon Games dungeon tile that I received back durimg one of the Bones KSs. Finally got to paimting them all.
Figured that I should start a topic to record what I end up doimg with them. Here is the second batch that I painted drying. I primed them with my air brush and black Stylnrez, followed by succesibe layers of medium and light gray craft paints. I used a 1 inch trim brush for tje drybrushing.
I've been lurking and posting around these forums for nigh a while now and i thought i'd share a project that i've been working on for quite some time.
It's a tabletop roleplaying Game that i've been working on for about 20 years now as a personal hobby. After much convincing, I've decided to create a 4th Edition and make it available to the world at large.
The Quickstart guide is a free starter pack for the System, including how to make a character, equip them and conduct simple adventures. I'm looking at releasing a Kickstarter next year to release the full core system, but for now i'm just looking for feedback and interest.
Check it out, hey, it's free. I'd be very appreciative for any feedback, comments or constructive critique you could provide!
Deadlands Lost Colony is a roleplaying game setting for the Deadlands universe and uses the Savage Worlds Adventure Edition game system. It takes place in 2097, thirteen years after the Last War in Deadlands Hell on Earth. Hellstromme Industries created a “Tunnel” between Earth and a distant star system later called Faraway. Millions of colonists settled on asteroid mining stations and the only inhabitable planet, Banshee, before the Tunnel collapsed and left them stranded. Now the humans must fend for themselves against a rogue military, ruthless pirates, angry anouks, the rise of an evil alien presence, and worst of all, the arrival of the Reckoners—made flesh on Earth and exiled to Banshee!
So these are a selection of the quick & dirty prints/paint jobs I did on my modular Raider Planetary Exploration Vehicles I designed.
It wasn't my original intention for this to be school bus yellow, but since it ended up that way, I've decided I'm going to create some decals to make it look similar to the school bus my
Good day everyone, I've been working on a diorama display for some time now and I thought some of you may like the see my progress. I used AutoCad for my sketches and Inventor to build the 3D model. Then I used Blender to texture the model and Slicer to generate de code for my Prusa printer. The following pictures are the steps I went through so far. It’s my first big project. It's taking long but it's a learning experience. Let me know what you think about it so far.
The first image is a screenshot of the final model in Inventor.
Some sketches in AutoCad software.
Floor part in Invetor software.
Generating the code of the floor in Prusa Slicer software.
I got a printing error while printing the floor. The plastic filament and I had to stop the print.
On the next picture, we can see how the parts are on the inside. There is some supports but most of the part is empty to save on printing time and material.
I decided to print the remining floor tiles individually to salvage what I had already been printing. I then glued each tile on the base.
I had another printing error on the column, and I had the print another one.
The column was printed at the highest level of quality my Prusa i3 MK3S can print, which is at a 0.05mm of precision.
The arch was also printed at 0.05mm.
The level of detail is amazing. Even the ring was printed flawlessly without support.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly after I completed texturing it in Blender.
Here’s a screenshot of the wall assembly in Slicer. I generated the code with supports to make sure the door arch would be print perfectly.
It looks perfect like this, so I didn’t see a problem coming.
Some parts of mu model were not right, there were some gaps. The software filled these gaps with support material, so when I see the issue, I decided not to stop the printing session. The support material is showing in drak green the the simulation.
After, when I generated the code without support, I could clearly see the gaps. I think this happened because there were errors, holes I didn’t correct or masking I didn’t remove, on the model I imported from Blender. I will need to investigate farther.
See the result after I removed all the support. Removing the support takes forever by the way. I’ll try to avoid supports if possible, in the future.
Here’s a picture of the wall. It took 40 hours to print only and probably another 40 hours to build, texture and clean the model. I still need to fill the gaps the Greenstuff.
Here are all the parts I printed for this project.
And, all the parts together. I haven’t glue anything yet. There is still some sanding and cleaning to do. I will paint each part separately.
I patched the gaps with liquid Green Stuff.
Closeup of the first layer of liquid Green Stuff.
I converted a 02712 Eye Best from Reaper Miniatures. This is the pewter version of model that was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I added eye stalks from the 03440 Creature Components II, also from Reaper.
The Eye Best will be pinned on the wall and the door. All the adventurers I'll be displaying on the diorama are from Reaper Miniatures Dungeon Dwellers brand. From left to right; 07012 Caerindra Thistlemoor, 07004 Stitch Thimbletoe, 07002 Baran Blacktree and 07008 Luwin Phost.
The models can be moved from a recess to another to allow different layouts.
More to come soon!
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