Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
WIP

How to clean mold lines from your REAPER BONES Miniatures

Recommended Posts

UPDATE! I stopped using IPA and use WATER now. (See why below in the comments section).

The video tutorial was removed because I don't want to be promoting any bad ideas. Use WATER for the win.   :)


(ORIGINAL POST) As much as I luv the REAPER BONES minis, (except when the bits are bent and misshapen in annoying ways out of the package (-_-) I was about to forsake them forever because of the issues with removing the mold lines...until I tried using 70% Rubbing Alcohol while filing them.  :D
According to the MSDS http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924413 "Isopropyl alcohol attacks some plastics, rubber, and coatings." Use at your own risk as it may damage your miniatures or cause health issues.
! Read Direction Label ! Use only in a well ventilated area and protective gloves are recommended. !

 

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm intrigued.  Is this a reaction between the plastic and alcohol, or would other fluids provide the same result?

 

I also wonder if @Wren has performed any similar tests.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I gave it a try and it does work much better than dry filing.  Wetting generally works, but I'd have to spend some time to see how much of a difference there is between IPA and plain water.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information and the video!  Is there any chance you could show the before and after using a wash of some kind? I have noticed in my bones prep that the washes really help identify the mold lines.  It would be helpful to see just how effective this method is and how smooth the finished product looks.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of files are you using? It's a bit hard to tell in the video, but they look like they might have a different abrasive texture than my regular metal hobby files.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like diamond files to me. I have a set I got from Harbor Freight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, they look identical to a set of diamond files that I picked up years ago.  Great for metal and they do remove mold lines from Bones.  The issue with Bones is that if you dry abrade the surface it leaves tiny little strings/hairs/whatever you want to call them where you file rather than a clean surface.  Wet abrading more or less resolves this issue.  I never thought to try IPA though.  If it works even better that's great.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I call the strings gribblies. ;->

Diamond file texture is a much better fit for Bones than crosshatch metal file type.

I'll have to try the alcohol method some time!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After reading the comments, I tried water instead of the 70% IPA. I didn't try water first, because I assumed it wouldn't do any good at all.

Was I ever wrong.

I'm not sure if one works better or not, if anything it seems maybe the water does, even if it's the same as the IPA, I'd rather be using water because there are no safety concerns like with the IPA. Also, in the IPA MSDS it states that it can "attack" some plastics...which may have a adverse affect on the BONES over time.

Sorry for the false alarm, but at least something was learned.   :)   ...use W A T E R

On 5/26/2017 at 10:45 AM, Cranky Dog said:

Cross-referencing the findings in the Bones rigidity improvement thread, we may have found a new tool to our paint kits.

"We know that Bones are not affected noticeably by exposure to water, which is an aggressive, strongly polar solvent."   :)

 

On 5/26/2017 at 10:58 AM, hdclearman said:

I'm intrigued.  Is this a reaction between the plastic and alcohol, or would other fluids provide the same result?

 

I also wonder if @Wren has performed any similar tests.

 

On 5/26/2017 at 11:22 AM, Auberon said:

I gave it a try and it does work much better than dry filing.  Wetting generally works, but I'd have to spend some time to see how much of a difference there is between IPA and plain water.

It seems to me that water may work better actually.

On 5/26/2017 at 11:38 AM, Baldur8762 said:

Thanks for the information and the video!  Is there any chance you could show the before and after using a wash of some kind? I have noticed in my bones prep that the washes really help identify the mold lines.  It would be helpful to see just how effective this method is and how smooth the finished product looks.

A wash is a great idea to help see mold lines. I won't be making anymore videos on this though. Too bad I didn't just try water first. The video would have shown that instead of the IPA.  :(

On 5/26/2017 at 0:19 PM, klarg1 said:

What kind of files are you using? It's a bit hard to tell in the video, but they look like they might have a different abrasive texture than my regular metal hobby files.

 

On 5/26/2017 at 0:39 PM, Loim said:

Looks like diamond files to me. I have a set I got from Harbor Freight. 

The ARMY PAINTER Diamond File Set TL5003 Miniature and Model Files. I've seen similar ones from other companies out there.

On 5/26/2017 at 0:54 PM, Auberon said:

Yeah, they look identical to a set of diamond files that I picked up years ago.  Great for metal and they do remove mold lines from Bones.  The issue with Bones is that if you dry abrade the surface it leaves tiny little strings/hairs/whatever you want to call them where you file rather than a clean surface.  Wet abrading more or less resolves this issue.  I never thought to try IPA though.  If it works even better that's great.

Water is better!

On 5/26/2017 at 1:27 PM, Wren said:

I call the strings gribblies. ;->

Diamond file texture is a much better fit for Bones than crosshatch metal file type.

I'll have to try the alcohol method some time!

I'm using water now since it seems to work at least as well and there are no safety concerns. DOWN WITH THE GRIBBLIES!

Edited by WIP
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, WIP said:

Sorry for the false alarm, but at least something was learned.   :)   ...use W A T E R

"We know that Bones are not affected noticeably by exposure to water, which is an aggressive, strongly polar solvent."   :)

 

It seems to me that water may work better actually.

 

Water is better!

 

I'm using water now since it seems to work at least as well and there are no safety concerns. DOWN WITH THE GRIBBLIES!

Next step (an easy one): Cold water/mini (stiff mini) vs. room temperature (firm mini) vs. warm (soft and bendable mini) vs. hot (floppy mini).

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this might be a dead issue at this point but I figure I'd throw in my discovery. Alpha Precision Abrasives makes very fine, disposable sanding files that I found to be utterly phenomenal cleaning the mold lines off of my most recent mini. I got the 240/320 Grit Professional Hobby Sanding Files from my local Hobby Lobby.  They have a very flexible foam structure inside them so the bend around corners and into crevices really easily. I am simply dipping them into some water then sanding down the lines and I have been astonished with how well it works!  I have not damaged ANY of the details and have made most of the lines virtually disappear.  On a few I needed to cut them down with an exacto knife a little before the sanding. This really worked well for me and since it is such a superfine grain of sanding paper, it does not damage the mini like metal files might.  If anyone else tries it, please let me know!  I know that I have found the only way I will be prepping my Bones minis from now on!

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Baldur8762 said:

. I got the 240/320 Grit Professional Hobby Sanding Files from my local Hobby Lobby.  They have a very flexible foam structure inside them so the bend around corners and into crevices really easily.

Thanks for the tip, ill try em on up coming resin projects

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/29/2017 at 6:16 PM, Baldur8762 said:

I know this might be a dead issue at this point but I figure I'd throw in my discovery. Alpha Precision Abrasives makes very fine, disposable sanding files that I found to be utterly phenomenal cleaning the mold lines off of my most recent mini. I got the 240/320 Grit Professional Hobby Sanding Files from my local Hobby Lobby.  They have a very flexible foam structure inside them so the bend around corners and into crevices really easily. I am simply dipping them into some water then sanding down the lines and I have been astonished with how well it works!  I have not damaged ANY of the details and have made most of the lines virtually disappear.  On a few I needed to cut them down with an exacto knife a little before the sanding. This really worked well for me and since it is such a superfine grain of sanding paper, it does not damage the mini like metal files might.  If anyone else tries it, please let me know!  I know that I have found the only way I will be prepping my Bones minis from now on!

  I'll pick some of these up next week to try. Thanks for the heads up. The ones with a hooked end look especially useful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...