Jump to content

Sign in to follow this  
Laoke

77514 - Iron Golem

Recommended Posts

  Hi, long time no type!

 

  I've been waiting for the Bones III figures to arrive specifically for this figure, because I wanted to try an old technique I used to use - Tamiya Clear paints over a metallic base.  This is pretty much a speed technique for armored figures.  It took me about an hour (not including time to let coats dry) to:

 

  • Prime the figure using Reaper Blue Liner
  • Base coat with Vallejo Model Air Steel
  • Wash with Reaper Steel Wash
  • Drybrush with Vallejo Model Air Silver
  • Finish with Tamiya Clear Smoke over the top (this is effectively a tinted gloss sealant)
  • Dot the sensor holes with Reaper Pure White & add two coats of Reaper Clear Red over the top
  • The base is Reaper Concrete glazed up with Reaper Stone Wash used for definition.  It's delibrately very clean - I could scuff it up and make it look a lot more worn, but I like the clean lines for this figure.

 

 

iron_golem_front.jpg.3cd03550796827fbd3b12d1ddd697447.jpgiron_golem_back.jpg.8790ed3c562913094dfe8ba4b6eeaeef.jpg

  • Like 17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Lord_Bryon said:

very cool...  How big is it?

 

  Hill giant sized.

 

iron_golem_scale.jpg.d7426a919bcd4a670a0fa79584c91b1d.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  It's an interesting technique, one that works really well for lacquered armour effects.  It's amazingly fast on metal figures, as you can just apply the Tamiya Clear Smoke directly over the metal, no priming at all, and it'll define & protect the figure in one hit.  Plastic... not as fast, as you have to prep the figure first so it's metallic looking, but still it's a fairly cheap & cheerful way to handle this sort of figure.

 

  What doesn't come across in the photos is how glossy it is - it comes across as oiled steel, that sort of machined look.  But you are working with a paint that's sticky and a pain in the elf to use - thinning it down more than I did on this figure would probably be a good idea.  You'd lose a little intensity in the tint, but you'd gain a lot of consistency in the texture:  you can see a point on the sternum plate where the paint "clumped" on me.

 

  If I was doing a proper job on this figure rather than just a pure "how fast can I get a decent result" example, I'd go back over and pick out the detail work with metallic - the bolts & springs especially.  But considering it's a 1 hour figure, I'm happy with the result.

 

  The next thing I'm going to try with this approach is the visors of the Blackstar Marauder figures - I'm going to undercoat them gold, then apply Tamiya Clear Yellow across them.  Should look grand : )

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Brianuk
      Bit of a kitbash here. The chap with the spear is from Alternative Armies. The others are a mix of Warlord orc heads (previously Wargames Factory) with two frostgrave arms and bodies,  one Oathmark goblin, and one Oathmark dwarf heavy infantryman.
       
      Have managed to get a really quick palette going for speed painting orcs. I prime them by brush with Vallejo dark grey primer, then use Scale 75 black metal for the armour, Vallejo hammered copper for decoration and metal details, dark red for cloth and dark brown for leather. The skin is Vallejo Model Colour Heavy Warm Grey. Then the whole model gets a black ink wash and I pick out teeth etc in light grey. These models took about 90 minutes altogether, ex drying time. 





    • By Crowley
      As I said on my Saproling's topic, I had today off, so...  I decided that in addition to the saprolings, I'd knock out some tabletop quality ghouls. They were already assembled and primed, so the first thing was to paint the undead flesh. I used Vampire Shadow for their sickly skin. It didn't quite match the ghoul I'd painted before, but it was close enough. I sadly didn't always take good notes...

      After that I decided that as these were primarily going to be gaming ghouls, and not for a unified force for Kings of War, they'd each get their own clothing color: Red, Green, Blue, Tan, and Dark Brown. I used Rusty Red, Muddy Olive, Rich Indigo, Desert Stone, and Ruddy Flesh. The eyes were all painted with Walnut Brown, as were the spikes sticking out of them. 


      Then I washed them all with a mix of 4 parts sepia wash and 1 part black wash. 

      A little bit of highlighting with the base clothing color, then it was time to paint the bases black, and then flock them! Oh, and a bit of watered down rusty red around the mouth.

       
      Oh, and aged pewter on the spikes and the cleaver. 
       

      Looking good for such quick work.  
    • By bluecrowlaura
      Here's a little quick-paint mimic that I finished up this week. I love this mini, and I want to paint another later, when I have more time.
       
      We've been completely snowed in here in Seattle, and you'd think that would mean I'd get more done, right? No. With the husband working from home and the entire schedule in shambles, I've had a hard time managing any painting at all. But the Jan/Feb Challenge deadline is approaching, and I have to get a couple more done...!
       


    • By Brianuk
      Nearly done with these I think. I haven't had to do a big batch paint for a while but will do that to get all the orcs and goblins done from the Zombicide Green horde kickstarter. I started off with Army Painter spray paints, necrotic flesh with a light pass of greenskin, or vice versa. Then immediately did a wash of green and purple ink mixed together. This batch has dark red clothes with khaki leather. Will change that on the other batches. What I need to decide (c and c welcome) is whether to do another wash on top or much highlighting. 
      Bases will be an attempt to match/reference the board so flagstones, grass, broken wood. And blood. 
       
      Also, why do I keep humming "I want it (that way)"? 





    • By Glitterwolf
      I also painted this Plant Dragon to include in my Welcome to the Jungle diorama/terrain piece for my Lost World Project.
      Again, I thought it would be nice to show it off separately before it becomes part of the terrain.
       
       



  • Who's Online   35 Members, 0 Anonymous, 247 Guests (See full list)

×