Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This feels like a dumb newbie question but: is there any issues or gotchas with mixing materials when modifying or converting minis and making bases? (Other than a light plastic mini falling over thanks to its big metal weapon I guess.) Obviously I'd need a primer that works on all of them, and it seems like CA glue ought to keep them all together, anything else?

Link to post
Share on other sites

You've pretty much got it.  I don't prime the Bones bits, but if a bit of primer gets on the Bones it's not the end of the world.  Spray primer is the only thing that I would avoid, since it can cause tackiness with Bones.  Green stuff and other putties should work more or less as usual, if you're a Sculpey person I would not bake the Bones with it.  

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

If CA works well for you, great. I kind of hate it and have switched mostly to either epoxy for most figures or a plastic weld compound like MEK for styrene to styrene bonds. One exception is that CA works great for PVC to PVC bonds as in Bones figures. Bonding can be a real gotcha, depending on exactly what sort of plastic "resin" figures are cast in.

 

Resin dust can be toxic, so use appropriate precautions when sanding or grinding resin figures.

 

Most resin figures have very low ductility and very limited elastic limits, so if you put pressure on them incorrectly they will snap. This shows up particularly in drilling and cleaning figures. It can also be a problem if you use resin in a gaming figure, as the resin can shatter if dropped.

 

Metals require more pinning to maintain strength after bonding than plastics.

Edited by Doug Sundseth
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

I glue metal, Bones and resin together with whatever super glue I have to hand (Gorilla, Loctite). Works perfectly. I prime with gesso or Vallejo brush-on.

 

If there are only a small amount of Bones bits on the resulting Frankenmodel, then I prime those spots with brush-on with two coats, to seal, then spray prime the rest. The brush-on or gesso will protect the Bones from the spray; you just have to spray light coats so nothing gets wet again.

 

In general, I do prime my Bones with actual primer or gesso. I know some people seem resistant to this, but I have had issues with previous coats rubbing off during dry brushing or handling, in cases where I had painted directly or used an ink or similar before continuing.

 

Perhaps because I paint for other people - who sometimes pay me for it - I feel compelled to ensure whatever I make will last. Primer is part of that equation for me.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've combined plastic, metal, and resin together with no problems. Adding in Bones bits shouldn't be an issue other than priming as I hear it's fiddly with spray primers and undercoat sprays... spray paint, basically. Someone did an experiment and determined which sprays could be used but I don't know if it's on the forum or through Reaper's website in their Help section - or whatever it's called.

 

CA seems to work on everything I put my hands on. If in doubt, drill two holes - one on the base model or bit and the other on the thing you're attaching, cut a paper clip so that it fits in between the holes, add CA, and cheer... I'm saying pin it, basically.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd probably prime with Vallejo airbrush primers, and I haven't had trouble with that stuff on Bones.

 

FWIW I have tried Army Painter spray primers with good results, and I haven't heard of troubles with that brand specifically, although I wouldn't trust a random hardware store spray can and I'll probably stick with the airbrush stuff.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Evilhalfling
      So when I unpacked this Big Boi in 2017  I thought he would look really cool without wings.  but I'm it will be a lot of careful work to carve off the joins and resculpt him,  I just don't think I'm ready.  In February I did the scales for my verocthulu conversion, and thought "I could have done that better."
      So this is better.  
       
      This Dragon will be the colors or earth.   Burnt Umber base, and a hide scattered with Burnt Sienna, Tusk Ivory, and Leather Brown with ochre and NNM gold colors on the belly. 
      perhaps some cool gray or blue washes in the shadows.   The scales will be individually shaded, and the hide below staying the color of brown liner, or umber in the well lit areas. 
       
      So far its been about 4 hrs of work in sculpting, cleaning, gluing and mold line removal.
      it took 45 min just to cover him in brown liner.  He is a really big dragon, and I have no idea how long this is going to take. 
       
      but im getting a little obesessed - I don't want to schedule a meeting or go grocery shopping, I want to add more paint... 
      this feels like how I ended up with a dragon named Insomnia - who was painted almost entirely between 10pm and 7 am.   I kept waking up with new color ideas. 
      Or the DDS2 dragon who I spent 2-4 hours a day painting for a solid week, and another hour a night for the week after.  
       
      The last picture is my inspiration for the scale colors - the eyes will be much simpler than this. 
       



       


    • By Metalchaos
      Good day everyone, I will share here my progression on a project I wish to do for a long time. I already know all the parts I'll be using for this diorama. Starting with the carefree 03082 Ingrid sculpted by Derek Schubert (I'm converting her as a svirfneblin prospector), accompanied by her faithful familiar the 14453 hunting cat sculpted by Sandra Garrity. They are taken as prey by a 03602 stone lurker sculpted by Kevin Williams. I will also add a 02018 bat from the familiar pack 1 hanging somewhere on the rock wall. I already worked on Ingrid. I removed the base and give her a pickaxe. I made her tool with a paperclip and a piece of scrap metal. This all-project idea started with the gemstone she’s holding in her left hand.
       

       

       

       

    • By dks
      Nearly two years after I started a thread for showing off the figures of my Pathfinder Society characters, I present the second figure.
      (For that thread about the first character, click here: link.)
       
      This is Sister Ayano, a kitsune archer (level 8 now: paladin 5 of Shelyn / zen-archer monk 3).
      I did some extensive conversion to the elf archer Caerwynn, from the Warlord line.
       
      Here is the finished Ayano:

       
      You can see the Work-in-Progress thread for her here: link.
       
      You may have noticed the concept art for two kitsune figures in the "Eastern Legends" stretch-goal from the recent Bones III Kickstarter.  I'll be sculpting those two.  So if you like the way Ayano the kitsune looks and you wish Reaper made others figures like her ... well, you're in luck (sort of).
       
      Enjoy,
      Derek
    • By Metalchaos
      Here's another one!

      The Chimeric Aberration is something I was inspired to build after reading about Chimeric Creature in D&D Monster Manual 2. In the book, they give the example of a Chimeric ankheg which has the head and front legs of and ankheg with a goat and a white dragon head.

      I'm calling my monster a Chimeric Aberration, because it doesn't have the traits of a goat and a chromatic dragon which are normally present on a Chimeric Creature. Instead, my chaotic hybrid will be the result of a mad wizard experiment that went terribly wrong. It will have the main features of a Giant Hound, a Deadborn Vulture head will stretch out from the right side of the monster and an Hulking Insect head will sit on the left side.

      My plan is to use a 02817 Moor Hound for the main body. Then, I will use both heads from 03069, Hooked Hulk witch are included in 03440 Creature Components pack 2 along with 14456 Mastema’s tail included in 03334 Creature Components. I will also use 03641 Gunslinger’s wings to add another characteristic of the Vulture. I’ve considered larger wings like those of 02065 Greycloud the Pegasus and maybe 02729 Mephisto’s wings would have been even more appropriate but I don‘t have them at hand. I may swap some of its paw for claw and/or palmed foot as well.

      For the colors, I thought of painting the main body green like a Cù-Sìth from the Scottish folklore. The additional head will have traditional vulture and insect colors. Voilà, It should be charming.
       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone, here are some pictures of a 02126, Arachno-Assassin sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. I had this damaged mini for a long time and I decided to replace its upper left hand falchion for a sword from the 02455, Weapons pack IV. It was a very fun and easy model to paint. I intend to use it as a "boss" in a major encounter, so I painted it in red to increase the focus on it and point out how dangerous it is. The bluish bladed sword will be magical, maybe even cursed. 
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   26 Members, 3 Anonymous, 41 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...