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Bones 3 savage avatars: Rhino


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7 hours ago, Thes Hunter said:

Even if not whimsical, a dark purple makes a nice shadow, and a blue grey makes a nice mid tone for 'grey' things. 

 

As I am sure you know, what color we see all depends on what colors are around it.

same-color-illusion.jpg

Colors A and B are exactly the same color. Don't believe me, load the image up in a photo editor, and copy and paste each square side by side. They are the same. 

 

I think she (Glamberry) was being sarcastic. (but perhaps I'm wrong. :unsure:

 

@Glamberry - btw, nice sparkly nail polish. 

 

Thank you - it's OPI pineapples have peels (I love nailpolish names xD)! Yes I wasn't serious about the mixing thing. Is purple the correct colour to write sarcasm in?

 

My Monday just started but I definitely need a coffee too!

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12 hours ago, Laoke said:

Could always do a White Elephant >.>

Do you have a suggestion for a good white paint? The Vallejo one and armypainter I have tried so far are...well let's say anything more than eyes is a pain to use these for. I'm always on the hunt for good shades/brands.

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13 hours ago, Glamberry said:

Do you have a suggestion for a good white paint? The Vallejo one and armypainter I have tried so far are...well let's say anything more than eyes is a pain to use these for. I'm always on the hunt for good shades/brands.

 

I suppose it's just my style, but I have tried to shy away from pure white, or pure ANY color, except for the super-special highlight points -- lights on a computer console, gems on a magical sword, a glowy spellcaster effect, some "necrotite green" for the glowing innards of a Cryx warjack, the heart of a flame, etc.  

 

Where something (not glowing) would be red, I'll use "brick" instead.  Where something is white, I'll use a light grey, or perhaps parchment or ivory.  If I'm going to have grey rocks, they're actually denim blue, and I'll probably wash them with some dingy brown, graphite grey, and a touch of ivy green.  If I'm going to have a white knight, he'll probably be granite grey at best, but I'll dry-brush with something closer to white.

 

The trouble is, most of the high-quality white paints I have are a little too watery for dry-brushing.  I tend to use them more for mixing rather than painting anything with them straight.  For dry-brushing, I more often use cheaper craft paints like I'd find at JoAnn Fabric -- such as DecoArt Americana.  They aren't "good" white paints by any measure I'd expect serious painters to use, and yet they seem to work best for my particular methods, where I am right now.

 

For whatever reason, lighter, whiter paints in those craft lines tend to be thicker, more opaque and solid, whereas bolder, more saturated colors tend to be runnier and more translucent (requiring a decent light underpaint in order to come out looking decent).  (The downside to using these cheaper paints, though, is that they tend to "go bad" after some indeterminate amount of time ... and I get them on clearance at the store, it's more likely that they're closer to "expiration.")  Lately I've been using Americana "Snowflake White" a lot, since it has an ever-so-slight bluish tint to it -- unless I'm going with Parchment or Ivory mixed with a bit of white.  I guess I'm just trying to veer away from the garish Games-Workshop-inspired paint jobs that inspired my attempts in the '90s, and instead steer toward things that tend to be more neutral in color, with only occasional "pops" of bolder and brighter color.

 

I'm still experimenting, though.  I don't really know what I'm doing.  I still couldn't blend a gradient decently if my life depended on it.

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I'd probably start with Linen White from the Reaper range:  it's an off-white shading to yellow, would look good with a yellow-brown shade.  But I'm notoriously color-blind so take my recommendation with a huge pinch of sodium chlorate.

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9 hours ago, Laoke said:

I'd probably start with Linen White from the Reaper range:  it's an off-white shading to yellow, would look good with a yellow-brown shade.  But I'm notoriously color-blind so take my recommendation with a huge pinch of sodium chlorate.

 

My favourite and least favourite paints are actually some I got from reaper. I loved all shades because they are opaque and truly matte (I don't like how some shades from other brands have a sheen when you really don't want them to). But I have two that have given me a little trouble with crackling. My nightshade purple and the sepia wash I got in the KS. I wish it wasn't so expensive to order from the states or I'd get more triads. I'll try to find more ivory shades to highlight :) 

18 hours ago, Jordan Peacock said:

 

I suppose it's just my style, but I have tried to shy away from pure white, or pure ANY color, except for the super-special highlight points -- lights on a computer console, gems on a magical sword, a glowy spellcaster effect, some "necrotite green" for the glowing innards of a Cryx warjack, the heart of a flame, etc.  

 

Where something (not glowing) would be red, I'll use "brick" instead.  Where something is white, I'll use a light grey, or perhaps parchment or ivory.  If I'm going to have grey rocks, they're actually denim blue, and I'll probably wash them with some dingy brown, graphite grey, and a touch of ivy green.  If I'm going to have a white knight, he'll probably be granite grey at best, but I'll dry-brush with something closer to white.

 

The trouble is, most of the high-quality white paints I have are a little too watery for dry-brushing.  I tend to use them more for mixing rather than painting anything with them straight.  For dry-brushing, I more often use cheaper craft paints like I'd find at JoAnn Fabric -- such as DecoArt Americana.  They aren't "good" white paints by any measure I'd expect serious painters to use, and yet they seem to work best for my particular methods, where I am right now.

 

For whatever reason, lighter, whiter paints in those craft lines tend to be thicker, more opaque and solid, whereas bolder, more saturated colors tend to be runnier and more translucent (requiring a decent light underpaint in order to come out looking decent).  (The downside to using these cheaper paints, though, is that they tend to "go bad" after some indeterminate amount of time ... and I get them on clearance at the store, it's more likely that they're closer to "expiration.")  Lately I've been using Americana "Snowflake White" a lot, since it has an ever-so-slight bluish tint to it -- unless I'm going with Parchment or Ivory mixed with a bit of white.  I guess I'm just trying to veer away from the garish Games-Workshop-inspired paint jobs that inspired my attempts in the '90s, and instead steer toward things that tend to be more neutral in color, with only occasional "pops" of bolder and brighter color.

 

I'm still experimenting, though.  I don't really know what I'm doing.  I still couldn't blend a gradient decently if my life depended on it.

It never crossed my mind to use "normal" acrylic paints but I think I will give it a try! I was thinking about using pastels and pencils before...I shall experiment!

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8 hours ago, viking_hank said:

nothing new to add just great job on the eye.

Thank you!

7 hours ago, Tolex Cat said:

I just want to say this looks great! Now I wish I'd gotten the Savage Avatars. I was kind of meh on them when I was ordering but I love seeing the rhino painted up!

I wish I would have gotten the second set. The giraffe looks super fun and the lion could have become a thundercat. I'm glad you enjoy the paint job!

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