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Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

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I will sacrifice a few mini's that need fixing with my Heat Gun. It has a low and high setting, so I'll use low (I will also try it on my T-shirts when I airbrush, easier then breaking out the iron if it works, and will certainly make hats easier). If anyone needs one, wait for your local harbor freight to have one go on sale, can usually snag one for 8-12 bucks.

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5 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

The problem with heat guns is three-fold:

  • They can be quite hot. If you're not careful, you can go right past the glass transition point to the melting point. This is bad. Hot water gets to the local boiling point then stays there. This is conveniently below the melting point for PVC but above the glass transition point for at least the first formulation.
  • They do not heat things evenly. One side of a figure can (almost certainly will) heat much faster than the others. This can be an advantage if managed well, but it's non-trivial. Hot water heats very evenly.
  • The air from a heat gun is very hot indeed and can burn you quite badly. Water transfers heat better than air, which has its own problems, but if you're a bit careful (I like to use chopsticks to remove figures from the water), it's not an issue. With a heat gun, holding the figure in the air stream is trickier, though you can probably use oven mitts or something.

On cooling, I'd recommend not shock cooling, but rather cooling as slowly as you can without wanting to curse the figure for its intransigence. Slow cooling can anneal the plastic and reduce the internal stresses that will tend to move things back to where they were before reshaping.

 

Which is why I use a hair dryer or craft heating gun, not a construction site level item.  And I agree on slow cooling.  I use the cold water on larger pieces mostly.

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Just got an email from UPS saying the truck will be earlier than expected! Should have the box in hand by 3.

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26 minutes ago, Talae said:

Google says this is a beer size in other places in the world. Is there another reference? 

Here it used to be is an actual beer...*googles, finds out they still make it*

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schooner_Lager

 

Named for the rather famous (at least we like to think so) Bluenose. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluenose

 

I believe Schooner was the first beer I ever drank, and is likely responsible for why I still don't like beer.....

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13 minutes ago, Talae said:

My guess is that they found some of the models that they ran out of (or the replenishment has arrived and they are working from two different lists.

Could also be people who failed to lock in their orders in the pledge manager, or had address issues, but got them resolved. 

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1 hour ago, Crowley said:

The biggest issue I've come across so far is the pack for the tortoise. Its warped, and doesn't fit on the shell.

 

I'm hoping boiling will work, but... 

IMG_20190416_202202.jpg

 

I have had good results with similar issues in other PVC models, both bones, board game pvc and restic, by immersing both parts in near-boiling water  for several minutes and then placing and holding them together before dunking in cold water to set. Removes almost all cracks and warpage as that parts will reshape themselves to one another.

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5 minutes ago, kristof65 said:

Could also be people who failed to lock in their orders in the pledge manager, or had address issues, but got them resolved. 

True. Very true.

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Academic, really, for me, as I have all 3 "List of Doom" models (and 2 of the Frost giant set), along with a late lock-in on wave 6 (2/15/18). I was hoping that by the time they got to me, the restock would have occured, but that is looking less and less likely. ::(::down:

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1 minute ago, Skallabjorn said:

Academic, really, for me, as I have all 3 "List of Doom" models (and 2 of the Frost giant set), along with a late lock-in on wave 6 (2/15/18). I was hoping that by the time they got to me, the restock would have occured, but that is looking less and less likely. ::(::down:

Matt said yesterday the ship with the container hit port...so it's entirely possible it'll happen before that.

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2 hours ago, Jason Zavoda said:

 

Howe many minis are made from the breakable stuff?

I did not think about tracking this information. My rulers of hell and hill giants seem more flexible than the frost raiders and the trolls. I'll track the next set of add ons as I inspect them.

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33 minutes ago, Doug Sundseth said:

The problem with heat guns is three-fold:

  • They can be quite hot. If you're not careful, you can go right past the glass transition point to the melting point. This is bad. Hot water gets to the local boiling point then stays there. This is conveniently below the melting point for PVC but above the glass transition point for at least the first formulation.
  • They do not heat things evenly. One side of a figure can (almost certainly will) heat much faster than the others. This can be an advantage if managed well, but it's non-trivial. Hot water heats very evenly.
  • The air from a heat gun is very hot indeed and can burn you quite badly. Water transfers heat better than air, which has its own problems, but if you're a bit careful (I like to use chopsticks to remove figures from the water), it's not an issue. With a heat gun, holding the figure in the air stream is trickier, though you can probably use oven mitts or something.

On cooling, I'd recommend not shock cooling, but rather cooling as slowly as you can without wanting to curse the figure for its intransigence. Slow cooling can anneal the plastic and reduce the internal stresses that will tend to move things back to where they were before reshaping.

 

A good 30s boiling the hut's legs, reshaping, then sitting in cold tap water did the trick well so far on the hut. No further indications of tipping or bending. Not sure what the threshold his between quenching and slow cooling on these, but the cold tap seems okay too. 

 

For any of the figures that I can't manipulate together other ways, I'll be using this method. It was pretty easy. The PVC doesn't hold heat really, so taking it out of the boiling water and shaking it off was sufficient before handling and reshaping. I didn't put the whole hut in the water, just held the hut with my hands and dunked the legs. Hut itself never got hot - only issue was steam hitting hands from the sides. Woohoo for cruddy thermal conductivity. 

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Dear Reaper: All those minis where there is a glue connection point where an arm meets the shoulder, AND a connection point where a staff or long weapon touches the figure elsewhere?

 

I love it, you guys are awesome!

 

...the wizard whose head has a connection point and a separate one for the beard is hilarious. ::D:

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I got my box yesterday and everything looks okay.  The only injury was a broken tusk to Mumlak (sp?) which was amazing considering it looked like UPS had used my box for kicking practice.  I may fix it and paint it up to look like a crack in his tusk.  Not sure yet.

Edited by Shadowphaze
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Anyone think we will see below 10K orders by end of day Friday?

 

12,780 right now.

Edited by Skallabjorn
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