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Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

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16 minutes ago, Disciple of Sakura said:

I am still surprised by the amount of work people do with cleaning their Bones. I have been a backer since Bones 2, painted everything I got in Bones 2, almost all of Bones 3, and I've never once washed a Bones miniature before painting it. The only time I've painted washed Bones figs is during Reaper's speedpaint contests, and that's when I'm most likely to have trouble with paint adhering to the figure due to water getting in the way (they never seem to be dry enough). I honestly don't find any issues with unpainted Bones going straight under the brush.

 

I admit that I often forget to wash my minis. My usual method for washing nowadays is just flinging stuff in a large bowl of soapy water, giving it some swirls, then letting it sit for a while. Come back when I'm in the mood and give it all a rinse. Set them out to dry, do other stuff, then come back and paint them. Minimal effort, no scrubbing, still seems to get the mold release off. I've been doing this for metal and Bones both; sometimes in the same bucket. Don't think I'd do it with resin + metal, and that would need more gentle swirling. Resin is more brittle so I don't want my laziness to break it. 

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1 hour ago, Jason Zavoda said:

 

Im just surprised reaper is able to send out replacements for anything before they are done with the shipping. They are doing half days and still clearing about as many orders per day as I remember from previous kickstarters.

 

Me too. They're even fixing the failed-fixes, when they can (they goofed up my replacement paints). I have to imagine that there is a person dedicated to being "the fixer". 

 

Just now, StarFyre said:

 

i always wash em.  prime em with army painter white (it works for bones). thin coat like normal.  then paint.  I find the thinner you paint with though, bones has issues without the primer.

 

For example, my "basecoats" are normally 5-6 layers.  more like 5-6 thicker glazes. very thin for a base coat.

 

doesnt seem to do well without primer on it.

 

sanjay

 

Bones is hydrophobic. That's why you can't put thinned paint directly on the surface. Don't use paint that's thinned with water on the surface. 

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Just now, Cyradis said:

 

Me too. They're even fixing the failed-fixes, when they can (they goofed up my replacement paints). I have to imagine that there is a person dedicated to being "the fixer". 

 

 

Bones is hydrophobic. That's why you can't put thinned paint directly on the surface. Don't use paint that's thinned with water on the surface. 

 

that explains it.  but thats how i paint. very thin layers. lots of layers, etc.  basically unless its a model i dont care about at all, i generally paint that way on everything. 

 

Sanjay

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4 minutes ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

Has anyone been using Brown Liner on their Bones Black models? Were the results the same as on regular Bones?

 

I haven't noticed a difference. I did both dreadmere villagers and core set villagers at the same time, did not notice any difference in how they painted up or how the brown liner went on. Seemed just as effective as normal

12 minutes ago, Cyradis said:

 

I admit that I often forget to wash my minis. My usual method for washing nowadays is just flinging stuff in a large bowl of soapy water, giving it some swirls, then letting it sit for a while. Come back when I'm in the mood and give it all a rinse. Set them out to dry, do other stuff, then come back and paint them. Minimal effort, no scrubbing, still seems to get the mold release off. I've been doing this for metal and Bones both; sometimes in the same bucket. Don't think I'd do it with resin + metal, and that would need more gentle swirling. Resin is more brittle so I don't want my laziness to break it. 

 

same. I just put them in a big bowl of water and give them cursory finger scrubs before rinsing them. Haven't had issues

Edited by Sirithiliel
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6 minutes ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

Has anyone been using Brown Liner on their Bones Black models? Were the results the same as on regular Bones?

 

Used Blue Liner on my BB owlbear. Worked great. 

 

Used a mix of Vallejo airbrush primer + brown liner, and a different round of airbrush primer + blue liner, on some BB stuff (practicing airbrush). Appears to have worked well. Haven't yet painted them since priming though. 

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22 minutes ago, Disciple of Sakura said:

:ph34r:I don't prime mine, either... I'll be curious how that turns out with these Bones Black minis, though. I'd expect it to impact the paint colours a bit.

I've only painted a handful of my mountain of bones mini's. I think their all from the original pre-kickstarter ones too. I do have a dragon and Khanjira partially done. I think I may start priming mine black, while it might not be necessary, I'm so used to painting metal minis (on which I use black primer) the white base throws me off. 

 

It might just be me but I also seems that metallics over white are less shiny.

 

 

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Got my Chronoscope today, but my frriend forgot to order my triceratops! Waaaagh! Anyhoo, most everything is good except one droid was broken at the legs and the sprue for my toolbots was malformed. I will let Reaper know tomorrow, but overall, I am happy!

40 minutes ago, Cyradis said:

 

Used Blue Liner on my BB owlbear. Worked great. 

 

Used a mix of Vallejo airbrush primer + brown liner, and a different round of airbrush primer + blue liner, on some BB stuff (practicing airbrush). Appears to have worked well. Haven't yet painted them since priming though. 

When I have used an airbrush to prime Bones, I will thin it with window cleaner and have had no problems with not sticking well.

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54 minutes ago, StarFyre said:

that explains it.  but thats how i paint. very thin layers. lots of layers, etc.  basically unless its a model i dont care about at all, i generally paint that way on everything. 

 

I usually start with a wash, then paint. With Bones, I have to paint a layer of paint before the wash. You could just slap an undercoat of black, white, or block color of paint before applying your layers.

 

Anyway, for the ghosts, I tried Tamiya clear then painting the *front* only with Army Painter's Green Tone Ink. The Tamiya Clear provides a non-hydrophobic surface for the ink. You can't slop-and-glop the ink, and have to be pretty careful, since you can't paint over your mistakes. I haven't tried other inks or Tamiya Clear Green. I'm pretty sure you can use green liner or green paint on top of the green ink, or directly on the Tamiya Clear. I still need to do more work on these miniatures, of course. 

 

Background is Galladoria Game's "Crown and Laurel Tavern". fyi, They have a Mimics KS coming in May.

 

Also, I have a pic of some terrain I cranked out. Craft paints then Secret Weapon Miniature's Stone Wash. Miniatures still need glazing and other touch-up.

 

 

IMG_3308.JPG

IMG_3307.JPG

Edited by ced1106
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55 minutes ago, CorallineAlgae said:

Gotta say, I never expected to see someone mention gris-gris on the forum. :lol:

I don't think I ever expected to mention gris-gris on the forum. ::P:

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On 4/23/2019 at 12:42 PM, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

He seems like the type to go around saying, "Harumph! Bully for you, good sir!"

No, a Dutch accent.

 

I know I have a voice in my head for that from somewhere, I think from a video in Art History on the Dutch Masters. The actor playing Rembrandt? :unsure:

Why are so many of the minis I like most in this in the Dreadmere set?

 

The one I told Grump Yeah, sure, it's all yours. <_<

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J ust pulled out the Frost Giants. They are going to be perfect for my G2 campaign. The wolf looks fine to me. The snarling expression will be for the players trying to sneak into the rift. Im pleased that everything is in ziplock bags.

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OK, this time I'm pretty sure they are done for the day. Still working Wave 12, 7126 orders left. Shipping is 68% completed. Drive On, Reaper, Drive On!

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