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Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

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I didnt get a chance to start assembling anything last night. Did wake up at 5am this morning briefly and put together a minitaur and a griffin. The griffin is fantastic and the loctite gel worked like a charm.  

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5 hours ago, Cyradis said:


Miniac tested a lot of primers, although not on Bones. Would need to check what won.


He didn't do brush-on or airbrush priming in the relatively recent video, it was just about spray priming in humid weather. (I know this because if you look far enough down in the comments you'll see one from me. :poke:


3 hours ago, 3vil3lvis said:

Miniac is great if you're feeling like you haven't been yelled at enough, otherwise I would checkout Blandco's testing as he is funny and actually tested bones material. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaqOulF6tm0


I like Miniac's channel quite a bit, though the intro and outro can be a bit grating after you hear them enough times. But it's a branding thing, so whatever.


The Blandco video doesn't test Stynylrez and he used thinned liner, which didn't work especially well.

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11 hours ago, ced1106 said:

Okay, getting somewhere with these translucents... :wacko:


1. Paint with Tamiya Clear. This provides an initial "primer" coat and makes the plastic clearer. As I understand it, the paint fills in the minute cracks in the plastic, preventing the cracks from diffusing light.


2. Paint a *thin* layer of Army Painter Green Ink only on the front of the miniature. You don't have to thin the ink with water, just paint only enough to thinly coat the miniature. One coat of clear Tamiya isn't as good a primer as regular primer. This addition layer of ink makes it easier for subsequent layers of ink to adhere. Unlike washing, you only want this layer of ink to acquaint you with the details. You can easily make mistakes with this step (like I did) by trying to make the details more visible. This risks pooling, as well as uneven distribution of the ink. By painting only the front of the miniature, you reduce the risk of seeing through the miniature paint on its back, which may make it hard to see the front of the miniature properly. (Note that in ghost artwork, even though you think you should see through the ghost, you never see the back of it when you see the front!) Mold lines are a pain, so us lazy painters can define the "front" of a miniature as the side that mold lines will interfere with the least! (eg. side view of the Shadow Hound from an earlier KS.)


3. Once you have enough thin layers, you can now focus on making the details more visible. Unlike conventional painting, you can't repaint areas without losing translucency. So paint thin layers like I should have. :huh:


Details are still hard to see from a distance, but at least they're more visible than unpainted. 





I think those would really really pop if you touched up just the very high points with thinned pure white to pop the very top highlights.  Well done.

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1 minute ago, lowlylowlycook said:

Lucky wave 13!

In before I could comment.

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On 4/23/2019 at 1:46 PM, Fnordlover said:

Does he have a peg leg, or is it just me?

He does - which made me think of Peter Stuyvesant, the governor of New Amsterdam.


The Auld Grump

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In general, with translucent minis, I do a matte varnish coat, then use inks washes and paints if needed. Never thought to just to one side. I'm relatively satisfied with the results, though. 


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4 hours ago, ironman1231 said:

So there's a chance my order will ship today (in wave 14). I'm in Austin. Anyone else in Texas get their order in one day after shipping? I'm hoping if it ships I'll have Saturday to play with it. 

Yeah Im in Pflugerville and got mine essentially overnight

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