completed Reaper Bones 4: Enthusiasm and Commentary Thread

[Skallabjorn]

29 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

I dont think bones grey is a terrible name

 

They could have gone with a tan or light brown.

 

Spoiler

Then it would have been "Bönes Büff"

 

Spoiler is due to really awful wordplay.

Edited April 25, 2019 by Skallabjorn

[Zink]

4 hours ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

Has anyone been using Brown Liner on their Bones Black models? Were the results the same as on regular Bones?

 

I've primed one mini with Blue Liner and one with Brown Liner. They seemed to work as well as on the white bones. I've also used the Reaper black and white primers and Vallejo game colour black primer. All worked fine and I've had issues with Vallejo game color primer and paints not sticking to unprimed Bones. They seem to stick to Bones Black. Overall I'm liking it better than original Bones. I haven't tried painting any of the softer minis from the core set yet. The expansions had all the stuff I needed right away.

[ced1106]

1 hour ago, animesensei said:

Does Stynylrez adhere better than liner?  Or is liner still the best option for priming?

 

I haven't noticed any difference for *adherence*. However, at least my brown liner sinks into the recesses, like an ink prewash over white primer. S is more like a conventional primer, in that it coats the miniature uniformly. I actually use S black in place of black, so will use it as an undercoat for primer. If you have multiple brush-on primers (eg. black, brown, white, flesh), you can brush prime different sections of a miniature as undercoats for your base coats. 

[Jason Zavoda]

finished my inventory of pieces. I haven't put them together and tomorrow I will debag everything and start checking for damages. My King of the Jungle came in a rtetail box so those breakable looking tusks were fine. I ended missing only two odd pieces from the core set (one minitaur I would have liked) minitaur #69 and small world hero #117. The core set is fabulous. Some fantastic sculpts, big and large pieces all that will be handy to have. The small world heroes are the only ones I have no use for. The coffins will go well with the one I have from Heroquest. Great selection and I got some extras of ape attack and snake cultists as well as the monsters. I was very pleased with the detail on the artist renditions since I didn't know whsat to expect. The core set is a big set of minis. Thje pig pulling the wagon is great.

 

I liked the nfan favorites and darkreach expansions. Some amazing minis there. I liked the portal. Nice that it is open wide enough for minis to pass through. I can have something reaching through the portal. The chaos toads are bigger than I thought theyd be. The dwarves were great, the mamoth was smaller than i thought, it was nice that the dog was a seperate fig from the bard and I want more cat people. The darkreach was spectacular for me because im working on thed1-3 drow series for greyhawk.

[CorallineAlgae]

45 minutes ago, Bane Of Humanity said:

I dont think bones grey is a terrible name

 

Bones Dark might've been a good name. They could have gone with pretty much any dark shade with that one. Even if they went with different dark colors for fantasy and scifi Bones Dark would have made sense.

[ced1106]

Okay, getting somewhere with these translucents... 

 

1. Paint with Tamiya Clear. This provides an initial "primer" coat and makes the plastic clearer. As I understand it, the paint fills in the minute cracks in the plastic, preventing the cracks from diffusing light.

 

2. Paint a *thin* layer of Army Painter Green Ink only on the front of the miniature. You don't have to thin the ink with water, just paint only enough to thinly coat the miniature. One coat of clear Tamiya isn't as good a primer as regular primer. This addition layer of ink makes it easier for subsequent layers of ink to adhere. Unlike washing, you only want this layer of ink to acquaint you with the details. You can easily make mistakes with this step (like I did) by trying to make the details more visible. This risks pooling, as well as uneven distribution of the ink. By painting only the front of the miniature, you reduce the risk of seeing through the miniature paint on its back, which may make it hard to see the front of the miniature properly. (Note that in ghost artwork, even though you think you should see through the ghost, you never see the back of it when you see the front!) Mold lines are a pain, so us lazy painters can define the "front" of a miniature as the side that mold lines will interfere with the least! (eg. side view of the Shadow Hound from an earlier KS.)

 

3. Once you have enough thin layers, you can now focus on making the details more visible. Unlike conventional painting, you can't repaint areas without losing translucency. So paint thin layers like I should have. 

 

Details are still hard to see from a distance, but at least they're more visible than unpainted. 

 

Edited April 25, 2019 by ced1106

[StarFyre]

4 hours ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

Once you have at least one layer down on a Bones figure, you can paint the same way you normally would on metal or resin. Reaper liners work well for that (with the possible exception of Sepia), and I've found that Badger Stynylrez primers work well too.

But that's why I do a thin layer of white primer on it ...

 

I get idea is that you don't have to prime it but I'm guessing a lot of base coats ppl use are thicker than a thin layer of primer. 

 

Sanjay

[Zink]

59 minutes ago, ced1106 said:

Okay, getting somewhere with these translucents... 

 

1. Paint with Tamiya Clear. This provides an initial "primer" coat and makes the plastic clearer. As I understand it, the paint fills in the minute cracks in the plastic, preventing the cracks from diffusing light.

 

2. Paint a *thin* layer of Army Painter Green Ink only on the front of the miniature. You don't have to thin the ink with water, just paint only enough to thinly coat the miniature. One coat of clear Tamiya isn't as good a primer as regular primer. This addition layer of ink makes it easier for subsequent layers of ink to adhere. Unlike washing, you only want this layer of ink to acquaint you with the details. You can easily make mistakes with this step (like I did) by trying to make the details more visible. This risks pooling, as well as uneven distribution of the ink. By painting only the front of the miniature, you reduce the risk of seeing through the miniature paint on its back, which may make it hard to see the front of the miniature properly. (Note that in ghost artwork, even though you think you should see through the ghost, you never see the back of it when you see the front!) Mold lines are a pain, so us lazy painters can define the "front" of a miniature as the side that mold lines will interfere with the least! (eg. side view of the Shadow Hound from an earlier KS.)

 

3. Once you have enough thin layers, you can now focus on making the details more visible. Unlike conventional painting, you can't repaint areas without losing translucency. So paint thin layers like I should have. 

 

Details are still hard to see from a distance, but at least they're more visible than unpainted. 

 

 

I haven't painted many of the translucents but what I primed with was matte medium. It let my washes "stick" but didn't change the colour. Yours look pretty good!

[Corsair]

"Os Noir" sounds classy and is umlaut free! Nyah!

[Glitterwolf]

8 hours ago, Cyradis said:

 

Yes. All new Bones figures are going gray unless otherwise stated. 

 

Bones is gray. Bones Black is gray. Some mushrooms are purple. 

 

WHY they called it Bones Black when it is "the new gray" is beyond me. 

 

 

Fifty Shades of Bones.

 

 

7 hours ago, Pezler the Polychromatic said:

Bönes Bläck: Bläck To Hëll!

 

Where can I buy this album?

Is it the new Nuclear Krill one?

 

5 hours ago, ced1106 said:

Okay, getting somewhere with these translucents... 

 

1. Paint with Tamiya Clear. This provides an initial "primer" coat and makes the plastic clearer. As I understand it, the paint fills in the minute cracks in the plastic, preventing the cracks from diffusing light.

 

2. Paint a *thin* layer of Army Painter Green Ink only on the front of the miniature. You don't have to thin the ink with water, just paint only enough to thinly coat the miniature. One coat of clear Tamiya isn't as good a primer as regular primer. This addition layer of ink makes it easier for subsequent layers of ink to adhere. Unlike washing, you only want this layer of ink to acquaint you with the details. You can easily make mistakes with this step (like I did) by trying to make the details more visible. This risks pooling, as well as uneven distribution of the ink. By painting only the front of the miniature, you reduce the risk of seeing through the miniature paint on its back, which may make it hard to see the front of the miniature properly. (Note that in ghost artwork, even though you think you should see through the ghost, you never see the back of it when you see the front!) Mold lines are a pain, so us lazy painters can define the "front" of a miniature as the side that mold lines will interfere with the least! (eg. side view of the Shadow Hound from an earlier KS.)

 

3. Once you have enough thin layers, you can now focus on making the details more visible. Unlike conventional painting, you can't repaint areas without losing translucency. So paint thin layers like I should have. 

 

Details are still hard to see from a distance, but at least they're more visible than unpainted. 

 

 

That looks great!

[Cyradis]

7 hours ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

Unclear. That would take the kind of testing that @Wren did with the Brown Liner, and I don't know of anyone who has done that. Works well for me, though, and it's cheaper in the kind of volume you need for a Bones Kickstarter project.

 

 

I would definitely buy Bones* Dark Whyte.

 

* I'm offended that I can't use an alt code to get o-macron. Offended, I say! 

 

Miniac tested a lot of primers, although not on Bones. Would need to check what won.

[Darsc Zacal]

1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

Fifty Shades of Bones.

.

1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:

Where can I buy this album?

Is it the new Nuclear Krill one?

.

Nuclear Krill never forgave Spinal Tap, which wasn’t even a real band by the way, for stealing their concept of the black album.

[3vil3lvis]

1 hour ago, Cyradis said:

 

Miniac tested a lot of primers, although not on Bones. Would need to check what won.

Miniac is great if you're feeling like you haven't been yelled at enough, otherwise I would checkout Blandco's testing as he is funny and actually tested bones material. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaqOulF6tm0

[paintybeard]

12 hours ago, Doug Sundseth said:

 

Exactly.

 

Death Metal.

 

• "There's something about this that's so black, it's like how much more black could this be? And the answer is none. None more black." -- Nigel Tufnel

 

"That," he said, "that... is really bad for the eyes."

It was a ship of classic, simple design, like a flattened salmon, twenty yards long, very clean, very sleek. There was just one remarkable thing about it.

"It's so... black!" said Ford Prefect. "You can hardly make out its shape... light just seems to fall into it!"

The blackness of it was so extreme that it was almost impossible to tell how close you were standing to it.

"Your eyes just slide off it..." said Ford in wonder.

 

Douglas Adams "Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy"

3 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

 

Fifty Shades of Bones.

 

 

... But definitely no Bones Beige.

[ironman1231]

So there's a chance my order will ship today (in wave 14). I'm in Austin. Anyone else in Texas get their order in one day after shipping? I'm hoping if it ships I'll have Saturday to play with it.