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Department of Acquisitions and Enablement, the Second

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2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

Aquired 4 new tires on my car...   

 

This may be the last 'big spend' on it, though, as it's now 20 years old. 

I would have liked to replace it, but the current Berlingo Electric only gets 170Km on a full recharge, and that's just not good enough. 

(Nearest FLGS is probably in Trondheim, which is just over 200Km away. So yeah, 170 just won't cut it. )

Tesla is not acceptable as I'm not a prat, the VW options are not even considered as I'm betting they faked something on it, and the Nissan Leaf just isn't big enough. 

 

Do they offer the Kia brand by you?  The all electric version is supposed to get around 200 mile run range on a charge and the two models they make in electric are a small suv and a station wagon like thing.  I keep looking at theit hybrid and getting disappointed by the salespeople (i want to be coddled through a buying process and given want I want,  not hard sold into a car I didn't like because they have too many)

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My pledge for the Kensei Katai Kisckstarter.

Went in for add ons and stuff from the earlier range at discount.

 

So, Samurai, Undead Samurai, Katai Characters and Conquistadores.

 

 

Taisho Buke

Kunoichi

Onryo KM038

Undead Samurai Banner III
 

Shinobi KB024

Katai Pirate

Field Master

Coracero Sergeant
Coraceros

San Yan Chong
Fan Shu
Xiahou
Long Gang
Zhang Fei
 

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Quite impossible, I'm afraid. 

I'm a dork, a Nerd, a BOFH, and sometimes a Troll, but never ever a prat. 

 

Besides, I've always, absolutely always owned French cars. And by a magnificent stroke of luck, they've all been Citroëns, too. 

The first, a 1975 GS Pallas was originally my mother's and when I got my next car she got it back, and it ran for a few years more.

The second was the 1984 CX. Best 'cruiser' I've ever driven. It took the miles effortlessly, and whenever I needed it, the 2.0L engine had both power(110HP) and torque. Unfortunately, it also had an oil leak I was unaware of. And I trusted the oil gauge too much.

The third was the BX Estate. Also a great cruiser, but this one had STORAGE space. Unfortunately, it didn't have a '+3 Defense against 6WD dump trucks' spell cast on it, so when one backed over it...   I stopped using my private car at work...

My 4th was a 1998 Berlingo. A silly little 1.4i engine, and nearly enough inside space to swing a cat.  Killed by a woman who didn't know to set her SUV in Park or apply the handbrake on a slightly sloping parking lot. 

And my 5th and current car is the 1999 Berlingo. Still only a 1.4i (the 1.6TD is rather too expensive on the secondhand market), but at least the newer car got me a sliding rear door(the 1998 was a 3door) and a sun roof that covers the entire roof!   

It's even the same colour as the previous one, KJA 'Inferno Red'... 

 

So if anyonme need help with an older Citroën, wether it be engine, hydraulics or whatever, you all know who NOT to ask... 

 

Just got a text... 

My set of Contrast Paints won't arrive until monday. and that day I'm not home. 

I'll be spending the day at the dentists office, or close it it. 

Broke a chip off of an implant. 

(I have 11 Titanium anchors in total, so yeah, I have bridgework that would impress Isambard Brunel )

 

2 hours ago, Kangaroorex said:

Do they offer the Kia brand by you?  The all electric version is supposed to get around 200 mile run range on a charge and the two models they make in electric are a small suv and a station wagon like thing.  I keep looking at theit hybrid and getting disappointed by the salespeople (i want to be coddled through a buying process and given want I want,  not hard sold into a car I didn't like because they have too many)

 

Yeah, they sell the KIA here. 

Looks a bit tight around the hips, really. Too small for me.

(I can fit 5 adults in comfort, with both shoulder and headroom, and I expect that on any new car )

 

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I love used bookstores. Especially the ones that don't necessarily check what they've got for online prices. There aren't many stores like that any more.

Perhaps the most demented miniatures game you can play with your clothes on. Still with all the counters, uncut. For pocket change.

IMG_20190704_120039824.jpg.6300e1e16251693b449cbdfb815d3e18.jpg I also found this other thing, but I'm a little afraid to try it. It's times like this that I begin to dimly realize that I was never all that weird to begin with... and that society, pop culture, and merchandising is STARTING TO CATCH UP WITH ME....

IMG_20190704_120119901.jpg.2dc3deca486651a4b322edf24f0a0b14.jpg

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Kudo3D is having a sale with up to40% off on Resin, 3D printers and accessories. 

(I have the Bean model)

I just ordered a bottle of Clear resin and a 'Resin container'(a clear-bottomed tray that sits above the LCD)

With two containers it means I won't have to clean out the container in use when I switch from one resin to another, and back again if I decide to print a piece in a different material.  

(I have a little Green tinted clear from when I got the printer, a bottle of Clear Flexible resin, and Gray 'Engineering' strong resin)

Every time I clean the container I lose some of the stuff, and it's not cheap... 

 

Reminds me to get an extra C14-to-Schuko extension lead for my UPS so that I can hook my 3D printers up to the UPS. 

(Not much is worse than having a 20Hour print ruined by a blink on the grid. Happened once, and that's enough for me.)

 

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2 hours ago, Dr.Bedlam said:


IMG_20190704_120119901.jpg.2dc3deca486651a4b322edf24f0a0b14.jpg

 

One of my D&D players brought some of these to the table one night. Since I'm not into Jalapenos I passed.

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2 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

Kudo3D is having a sale with up to40% off on Resin, 3D printers and accessories. 

(I have the Bean model)

Are you saying I should be looking into ordering a resin 3d printer?

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15 minutes ago, Talae said:

Are you saying I should be looking into ordering a resin 3d printer?

 

If you've been considering getting a 3D printer, then yeah, you can look into it.

 

Resin printers, prints by slicing parts into think 2D pictures that's a cross-section of the part.

the resin container is placed above a LCD. You fill this with Resin. If possible, you fill with enough for the printr. If not you'll have to add more during the printjob. 

The Build platform is lowered to the bottom of the container.

Then the printer lifts it to the height of 1 layer, and the first picture is loaded onto the LCD letting UV light pass from a lamp underneath and into the thin resin layer between the container and the build platform.  

When the resin has been cured, the printer lifts the build platform, usually several mm , to rip the build loose from the bottom of the container, then lowers it again, to a height of 1 layer above the last, and a new picture is loaded onto the screen.

After the print is finished, you detatch the print platform, scrape off any free resin, and turn it upside down so that resin in hollows can be poured out(good SW can hollow items and make holes on the underside of items to help drain resin)

Then you dunk the platform with the item in IPA for a little while,  shake off the IPA and use a scraper to remove the finished prints.

 

A 'post curing lamp' (UV Lamp) can be used to continue the curing afterwards. Or you can leave the items in the windowsill for a few hours on a sunny day.

 

It's a slow process, but the number of objects it's printing at the same time doesn't add to the print time, only the height of the tallest item matters. 

Also, because of the 'breakaway and UV light, the bottom of the container slowly wears out. (usually takes a couple hundred prints. Maybe up to 1000 objects if you're good at placing them at different points on the platform to spread the wear evenly. ) And yes, replacing the teflon film on the bottom is kind of a pain. 

 

FDM(filament) printers also slice parts into layers, but then they 'draw' each layer using a hot printhead(hot-end), one line after another. 

 

The big issue with FDM printers is that the layered structure creates an inherent weakness in anything you print. 

That same weakness doesn't exist in Resin printers

 

That said, I own two FDM printrers... 

A WanHao i3, and a DreamMaker Overlord Pro.

(The Overlord is currently awaiting new motor drivers)

 

The most useful resins are probably the 'Strong' types and the transparent types. 

The flex stuff can be rather difficult, I've heard.(Haven't tried to print any of that, yet)

There's even resins that are created for metal casting, similar to how you use wax in 'lost wax' type casting. 

Quite popular with hobby jewellers I've been told.

 

Please note that the Bean has a smaller print volume than most Filament-type printers, and also, to get good results, you also need a costly SW package($190) 

It comes with a built-in 'Slicer' but it's not very good, at least when it comes to adding support structures. And on minis, those structures can easily destroy important details. 

 

 

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@Gadgetman!If you have Hyundai sold near you, a friend of mine has the Sonata Hybrid which he loves. I understand it is also sold as an all-electric [nit here though]. It will hold 5 adults comfortably and he is 6'8" tall!

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6 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

 

If you've been considering getting a 3D printer, then yeah, you can look into it.

 

Resin printers, prints by slicing parts into think 2D pictures that's a cross-section of the part.

the resin container is placed above a LCD. You fill this with Resin. If possible, you fill with enough for the printr. If not you'll have to add more during the printjob. 

The Build platform is lowered to the bottom of the container.

Then the printer lifts it to the height of 1 layer, and the first picture is loaded onto the LCD letting UV light pass from a lamp underneath and into the thin resin layer between the container and the build platform.  

When the resin has been cured, the printer lifts the build platform, usually several mm , to rip the build loose from the bottom of the container, then lowers it again, to a height of 1 layer above the last, and a new picture is loaded onto the screen.

After the print is finished, you detatch the print platform, scrape off any free resin, and turn it upside down so that resin in hollows can be poured out(good SW can hollow items and make holes on the underside of items to help drain resin)

Then you dunk the platform with the item in IPA for a little while,  shake off the IPA and use a scraper to remove the finished prints.

 

A 'post curing lamp' (UV Lamp) can be used to continue the curing afterwards. Or you can leave the items in the windowsill for a few hours on a sunny day.

 

It's a slow process, but the number of objects it's printing at the same time doesn't add to the print time, only the height of the tallest item matters. 

Also, because of the 'breakaway and UV light, the bottom of the container slowly wears out. (usually takes a couple hundred prints. Maybe up to 1000 objects if you're good at placing them at different points on the platform to spread the wear evenly. ) And yes, replacing the teflon film on the bottom is kind of a pain. 

 

FDM(filament) printers also slice parts into layers, but then they 'draw' each layer using a hot printhead(hot-end), one line after another. 

 

The big issue with FDM printers is that the layered structure creates an inherent weakness in anything you print. 

That same weakness doesn't exist in Resin printers

 

That said, I own two FDM printrers... 

A WanHao i3, and a DreamMaker Overlord Pro.

(The Overlord is currently awaiting new motor drivers)

 

The most useful resins are probably the 'Strong' types and the transparent types. 

The flex stuff can be rather difficult, I've heard.(Haven't tried to print any of that, yet)

There's even resins that are created for metal casting, similar to how you use wax in 'lost wax' type casting. 

Quite popular with hobby jewellers I've been told.

 

Please note that the Bean has a smaller print volume than most Filament-type printers, and also, to get good results, you also need a costly SW package($190) 

It comes with a built-in 'Slicer' but it's not very good, at least when it comes to adding support structures. And on minis, those structures can easily destroy important details. 

 

 

Thanks for such a thorough response. 

 

In general I hear that resin is better for minis and filament is better for terrain. Terrain is the most tempting part... although minis definitely have their appeal (obviously).

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3 hours ago, Talae said:

 

In general I hear that resin is better for minis and filament is better for terrain. Terrain is the most tempting part... although minis definitely have their appeal (obviously).

 

That generalisation is based on only one fact, though; the price of resin is much more expensive than filament.

 

If you study the 'little things' such as resolution, you may notice that Resin printers have a good Z-axis resolution. Often down to 10um. That would mean 100 layers per millimeter on the print. 

That should make for a really smooth print, right?

Notice that X and Y resolution is 50um...  (At least on the Bean it's that. Some have better, some have worse)

This is 'fixed'. Without swapping out the LCD there's nothing that can be done to change that. 

 

On a filament printer, the X and Y resolution is... different. 

Sure, it may print with a 0.4mm nozzle, which should give a 0.4mm wide track. 

But the positioning of the printhead can be controlled far more closely than that. So on an object with a gently sloping wall, the filament printer can adjust the placement of the tracks by microns, but the Resin printer is forced to 'stairstepping' 

 

Replace the stock 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.2mm nozzle and things starts to happen... 

(Mostly clogs and ruined prints, but... )

 

With a well-tuned modern filament printer the quality issues really becomes a moot question. It's just that most never bother to REALLY tune them. 

(I know that my Filament printers are nowhere near perfectly tuned. The one that runs right now is only used to make brackets, tool holders and such these days. Nothing that requires perfection. )

 

There's a lot more in-dept dicussions about this over on the Fat Dragon forums, though.

(I haven't been on there for ages. Probably time to visit again. )

 

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I ordered this sometime last year, and while the game has yet to actually ship, the final boss "miniature" (and I use the term loosely) has done so, and arrived on my doorstep earlier this week.  (It's the Cthulhu model from a CMON KS.  I honestly don't know how to paint something like this. . . )

 

image.thumb.png.5708045cb7f842be11d0a58a465e8b95.png

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That's an awesome beastie, @warlordgarou!

 

I went on a bit of a mousling splurge this month...

 

DSCN9958.thumb.JPG.439e62a7f33cfc964b98890ce1adf104.JPG

 

01434 Reaper Artist Conference; Space Mouslings

03535 Halloween Mouslings

03543 Santa Mousling and Helper

03557 Valentines Mousling

03576 Lara Kraft, Mousling Adventuress

03577 Asiago Jones, Mouseling Adventurer

77080 Wall of Fire (not shown)

77080 Rhino Avatar

44006 Garghuk, Ogre Chieftain

Also in the box was an extra Tara the Silent, the free mini from May ^_^

 

I also picked up some paints

 

DSCN9959.thumb.JPG.722307aa3121ab8874cf6e9ec0ca6211.JPG

 

It's mostly Instar, my replacement Bones 4 paints and some of the new GW Contrast paints. Instar were phasing out their colourshift paints in favour of selling the individual shift pigments ::(: so I managed to get some of the last of the old stock along with the new shiny stuff. 

Edited by Kuroneko
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