Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Nethear

Beginner paintjob The Others minis

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

 

First time posting and first time painter. Just started painting recently, and while I'm waiting for my Reaper and KD:M minis to get here, I'm practicing on my The Others: 7 Sins ones. I've only painted 5 minis up until now (3 Age of Sigmar starters and 2 The Others), and have noticed the following difficulties:

 

- proper placement of highlights

- proper amount and placement of edge/extreme highlights

- proper way of applying dry brush. 

 

Any tips are welcome. I'm using deerfoot (?) brushes for dry brushing, because regular ones were too flexible, and rhe other cheap ones I have are too rigid. 

 

Link to minis:

https://goo.gl/photos/Arkd9kVm9XYeNrEF9

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice first figures! 

 

We highlight and shade figures so that they give the illusion of being illuminated as if they were on a real scale. Take a look at photographs of people wearing say... blue jeans. You know that the material is just that denim (assuming no fancy coloring of jeans). However, the peaks look brighter because they catch the light, and creases are darker because they are shadowed. A miniature doesn't have enough light on it to show the effect without help. 

 

When painting the highlights, try to imagine where the light is coming from, and what part of the figure would be in the path of the light. Then see what would be shadowed or dulled. 

 

The degree of this effect takes practice, and you'll be practicing it as long as you are a painter. In general, I recommend layering for novices before fancier methods (although they have similarities to layering). I also recommend Citadel's Shade type of paint. 

 

Try some colors that are close to the base, like from blue go with a semi light blue for highlights. You can always get brighter after. Likewise for the shadows, go with a semi dark blue in creases. Get darker as needed. Nooks and crannies are done well with washes and the Citadel Shade paint - it falls right in. 

 

For dry brushing, use a nearly dry and crummy quality brush. Frayed is fine. Pick up a minimal amount of paint. Dab some off on a paper. Use the lightest touch across the surface you are drybrushing. It is a hasty and clunky method, but can give good effects. I like it for dirt and stuff like that.

 

Welcome to the forums!

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome!

Very nice, a little more highlights and shadows will certainly make them even better.

 

Keep posting your work, browse the forum,you'll find a lot of useful information here.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are a few tips on how I got a better understanding of:

 

Placement of highlights:

- Hold the mini under a bright lamp, the position of the lamp should be the same as the simulated light source of the mini. Take note of where the bright areas are or better yet take a photo.

- Find photos online of the same mini as painted by different painters to see where they placed the highlights.

 

Amount and placement of edge/extreme highlight:

- With the area of the mini basecoated or even with initial highlight, brush on water on the area while holding it under a bright lamp. Again take note of where the reflection of the lamp is on the surface.

- Find an artist whose style you like and try to emulate how they applied the extreme highlights.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The quick way to tell whether you have the right amount of paint on your brush for drybrushing is to run it across the back of your non-dominant hand (because the dominant hand is holding the paintbrush ^_^) when you think it's correctly loaded and see whether you're pulling out texture. You should know right away if you have too much paint.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 07/08/2017 at 3:13 PM, Doug Sundseth said:

The quick way to tell whether you have the right amount of paint on your brush for drybrushing is to run it across the back of your non-dominant hand (because the dominant hand is holding the paintbrush ^_^) when you think it's correctly loaded and see whether you're pulling out texture. You should know right away if you have too much paint.

Tried this on my Reaper wolf mini. Worked a charm. Very subtle highlights but not so much that it is hidden.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/IwITyeJ8azWDjD172

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very well done!

 

The biggest thing is that you painted between the lines!

 

The other techniques like shading and highlighting will just come with time and practice.

 

I can tell by how well you've kept your crisp lines and how you did the eyes that you will have no problem grasping it quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really like the blue and gold together on the Age of Sigmar guy.

 

For highlighting and layering I suggest checking out Dr Faust on YouTube.  He has many great videos about how to use base layers and highlight layers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By MoonglowMinis
      Hi gang.

      I always have trouble with finishing minis if they take too long.  Groups of minis are a frequent struggle for me.  What kind of advice do you have to avoid burnout?

      I try to mix things up to stave off the exhaustion and tedium.  I typically switch off between working on groups of minis, to just doing one at a time.  Small minis to big minis.  Detailed minis to simple minis.  I'll even avoid things that are the same color back-to-back.  Anything to help avoid getting sick of painting.

      But I have a harder time just getting through a group of minis.  I'll try breaking them into sub groups, or just focusing on painting everything of the same color like all of the wood, or all the leather.

      Maybe I'm just tired in general, but I'm definitely feeling worn down on my current set, which is a shame because I am excited to see them finished.

      What advice do you have?
       
      How do you avoid burnout?
       
      How do you get yourself to just keep painting?
    • By MoonglowMinis
      Looking for some advice on using inks in painting.
       
      So I've seen people using inks and spouting praise about their uses with mini painting.  Especially for glazing purposes.  I got a set of cheaper inks last christmas, but they really didn't play nice.  They were constantly rehydrating.  Even with a protective layer of spray varnish.  As soon as I painted over top of it, the color would bleed back up.

      Anyone know what I was doing wrong?  Or if I was using a kind of ink that wasn't compatible?  I bought a set of 10 colors from amazon - ZZKOKO caligraphy pen ink.
       
      I got an airbrush recently and have heard that white ink results in smoother zenithal than traditional white paint.  Any words of warning?
    • By Fnordlover
      Picture them in your head. Crazy, evil cultists. Secret meetings, twisted plots, midnight masses in service of the unthinkable. Got it? What color are their robes?
       
      I'm about to start painting a group of cultists and I'm having trouble deciding on a color. I don't want the color to be indicative of their allegiance, I want them to be able to stand in for any group of evil cultists.
       
      So I want to put it to the Forumites: What color says, "that's an evil cultist," without having it say, "That's a cultist of (blank)?" What color robes do you wear when you worship your dark Deity of choice? What color looks great, even if it covers 90% of the miniature?
    • By Rat13
      After some interesting plumbing adventures the family and I are out of the house for the next couple weeks while repairs are made. Knowing that I'd need something to do in the evenings I had to make a tough call. I could gather up my painting supplies or I could grab one box, a knife, glue, and clippers. I obviously chose the easier route. So during our little forced vacation I'll be assembling the Robotech RPG Tactics starter box and giving you my thoughts on it. Not that I think anyone particularly wants to hear my thoughts on it, but if I'm going to build all this I'm going to talk about it.
       
      Before we jump into it I do want to mention that if you've ever heard anyone talk about this set I'm probably going to say a lot of the same things. I do however think I bring at least one new idea that somewhat redeems this box or at least changes the way you think about it.
       
      Right off the bat I've got to say it does have a nice box. It's fairly solid and the art not only on the outside but on the inside is a nice little addition. 
       
      When I first bought the box it was my intention to build the three configurations of a Veritech and stop. I already have too many projects and this was to be the reward after completing everything else. You better take a look at them before I start ranting.

       
      It was during the build of these first three models that I couldn't help but notice problems, you know the very ones we'd all already been warned about. The instructions are not always clear, all you get for each model is a deconstructed picture that can leave you guessing. Then to make it just a little more fun some components that are shown as being multiple parts just aren't. There is nothing like searching a sprue for a piece needed to complete a part before you realize its already attached.
       
      Then of course when it comes to "fiddly" bits these may be the fiddliest I've ever seen. There are a ton of parts that are tiny to the point of the simple act of removing them from the sprue breaks them. Remember this because we'll definitely be coming back to it.
       
      Even the larger pieces have their problems though. Most of the bigger pieces are multi-piece parts for no real reason. Maybe they're there to lull you into a sense of false comfort right before you start in on the "fiddly" bits.
       
      Now we come to the sprues themselves. They're not exactly horrible minus the times when you break a "fiddly" bit trying to remove it but they're not great. 
       
      After only assembling three I really wondered how they'd stand up to use on the tabletop. Even for display pieces they feel fragile. The detail is there but the construction and contact points are just bad, again we'll get back to that. 
       
      Confidence was not high after the first three figures. Then came about our impromptu vacation so I pressed on with the assembly and next up were the other Macross defenders, you know the cannon fodder, the Defenders and the Tomahawks.

      This is where I hit my stride. Overall I assembled them quickly, with many of the same complaints, but by then I'd become familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the set. It's also where I had the revelation that completely changed my attitude.
       
      You see these aren't miniatures and they really aren't game pieces, they're models. Models complete with all of the "fiddly" bits and needless multi-piece assembly you could expect. Once I started to think of them as models it bacame easier to accept the flaws and oversights. I couldn't exactly forgive or forget them, but at least they made a kind of sense. They're made like a Gundam model where the real accomplishment isn't in building it, it's in the fact that during the assembly you never threw it against the wall.
       
      Armed with my new outlook I started work on the special Zentraedi models. Even with the new outlook there were issues. Here are some "fiddly" bits I broke while removing them from the sprue. See just how tiny some of them are?
       
       Oh and remember those contact points I mentioned?

      That's how a leg attaches, a leg, you know the thing that is meant to support the whole model.
       
      Eventually I did complete the three special models however. 
       
      After reading all that it would be easy to think I hate this box. It'd be even easier to think I wouldn't recommend it. Even with all the issues however that isn't the case. I think under the right circumstances, I can recommend this to everyone they just have to meet certain criteria.
       
      Firstly you need to be a fan, because you'll need that love of the source material to keep going. The box needs to be on discount (bought mine for about $50 and that seems fair). It also helps to know exactly what you're getting into; before buying I'd already heard plenty of horror stories (still ended up buying it and I'm glad I did). Finally you need to think differently about the figures themselves, honestly once I started thinking of them as models like Gundams or even highly detailed planes everything bacame easier. If you check all of those boxes this is probably right up your alley. Don't ask me about gameplay however I already know I'll never find someone to play with, I just wanted the models. 
    • By UnreliableNarrator
      Hey! So I've been putting paint to minis for about two months, and I've yet to finish one up satisfactorily. So I thought I'd come here and ask y'all for some C&C for a struggling newbie.
       
      The Tiefling is an NPC baddie for my DM, and I'm struggling trying to get more detail on his face. I tried adding highlights to his t-zone to make it less flat but getting detail in such a tiny space is driving me mad. I'm also not happy with the highlights on the tail. How do ppl do faces on minis without much detail to the sculpt? 


       
      I've been struggling with transitions and blending/glazing. On the mouseling the transitions are supposed to be glazing but it just comes out more of a wash with a heavy load of pigment where it settles. I've tried wet blending, but I don't know how to get that on smaller or more detailed/textured areas.


       
      I'm a lot happier with my skelly boys, and I'm going to try NMM on the swords. I'm wondering how to reduce the shininess on the varnish (the middle one). I'm using Vallejo matte varnish, but there are still reflections under light.

      Thanks so much if you've read down all the way here! I know I've got a long way to go, so I'm looking forward to any and all C&C.
       
       
       
       
       
       
      Edit: Cut this down to just the ones I'm not happy with, and need advice on.
  • Who's Online   12 Members, 0 Anonymous, 65 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...