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Khanjira (currently stripped to start over)


nakos
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So after many many months of not painting, I decided to get back into painting my second Khanjira. Pending an ok from @Reaperbryan, the plan is to call it Pre-Coffee with a nice fedora. This is also my first mini using a head visor and so many mold lines on this thing. I saw mold lines with the visor that I hadn't noticed or didn't think would be that bad, so many mold lines.

 

Since I wanted to try and make this look like ReaperBryan's Bryanzilla Kaiju, I started with Reaper's new green liner thinned slightly for a nice heavy green undertone. Something I noticed with the green liner that I hadn't noticed with earlier liners was this plasticizer smell, almost like the plastic spoiled. On Khanjira's head/neck piece, I tested out washing the green with Secret Weapon's sunshine (yellow) wash to see if I could duplicate an effect I stumbled on two years ago and it looks like it'll work. I tested it here because if it didn't work or it did I knew it was going to get covered up in the next few steps.

 

After the liner priming, I set out to pre-shade all of the cracks and stippling of the skin and plates. Here I used rich green (about 20-25 drops), 5 drops of coal black, 10 drops of flow improver, 5 of wash medium, and 10 of water. It went on almost like a thick wash, got into the depths but also helped color in and strengthen the liner color. After that, I used dragon green straight to layer the fleshy bits with the first basecoat. In the last two pics, you can see that the normally bright medium green only lightened up the fleshy bits slightly but I think effectively. I think I'm going to mix a bit of green and black liner (maybe 2:1 or 3:1) and line around the plates and other deep shadows before moving onto the next layer. And either after that second green layer or the third one, I'll wash it with SW's sunshine wash.

 

Edited to add that the last photo is actually the rich green/coal black undertone wash. And I figured out how to tag ReaperBryan. I just hope it works as an edit.

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Edited by nakos
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Ok, a 3:1 green liner to coal black (because I thought there was a black liner but guess not) didn't work out good enough. Blends too much with the rest of the skin and plates. And I'd most likely had to redo it again anyway. But was good was the rich green/coal black wash did help show where future lining and shadowing should be and at least this way the lining I did tonight will help strengthen that for the next green and future yellow wash. I'll have to ponder what black shade to use to line it later with. 

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After doing some work on the base with Dwarven Forge's earth stone brown, I thought what would it look like over Khanjira's plates. So I tested a small hidden spot and didn't like it at first so I dried the brush and scrubbed it. It had this effect of smearing the paint around and thinning it so that more of the undercoat showed through. Because DF's paint line is already thinned out and I've not had good results in further thinning, I went with trying to 'glaze' using a drybrush technique. I say 'glaze' and not drybrush because the brush was still too wet with paint to really drybrush but too dry to really be called layering. Not sure if there is a word for this technique or what so eh. But I'm really digging the result, to me, it looks kind of like an NMM bronze. Personally, I like the mottled uneven color but also realize that a lot of painters and judges like a more even color due to the scaling and that most if not all of that washes out.

 

So, what ink or wash recommendation would you recommend to even out the bronze color without further muting the green undertone and going too far brown? For some reason, a brown just seems counterintuitive to keeping the green and so I'm trying to figure out if a green or even red ink/wash would do better. Would the green strengthen the undertone too much back to green? Would a red strengthen it too much way from the green? Gah, knowing just enough color theory to make my brain spin in trying to figure this out.

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I believe the method you discovered is generally referred to as WET brushing  (more paint than dry brushing but not enough to be painting).  I am not sure which wash you should use but I don't think red would work over the brown.

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So some photo catch up time. Friday and Saturday, I applied surf aqua to the eyes and the third green layer, reptilian green. I blocked in the eyes now so that I can see how I like it. And as for the reptilian green, it doesn't look like the darker green layers are actually in the cracks and crevices anymore but under a visor, they're there plain as day. I'm going to wash the green bits with Reaper's or was it SW's green black wash to try and pull them out some more before moving onto the fourth green.

 

Over the weekend it seems that the wet brushing I did with DF's earth stone faded, a lot. So even though I hadn't had good results before, I thinned the earth stone to a glaze and it looks like I'll need at least three more, possibly five, layers to get the look I want. The photos are artificially darkening the earth stone, they are still very much transparent.

 

It seems too that I'm fast approaching assembly so that I can start blending the green stuff needed to hide the gaps. 

 

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Also, I'm already contemplating hat construction, fedora for the classic avatar look or flat cap for the current look? And do I want to do a 'breath' weapon, flames or laser beam?

Edited by nakos
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Work from last night: The base got a drybrush highlight with DF's cavern stone drybrush. I'm not sure if I'll do anything else to the before starting the inking and such for an algae feel.

I went ahead and blocked in the mouth since it'll get harder once assembled. I based it with DF's cavern drybrush. To darken and yellow the teeth I mixed SW's red rust and DF' lava yellow, about 2:1. The mouth roof and tongue got just the got SW's red rust and DF's lava orange, about 3:2. The mouth roof and tongue were washed with SW's cotton candy (pink) wash and the teeth lightly drybrush with DF's stone edge. 

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Glued together most of Khanjira. Tried greenstuff for the first time this weekend. I had to stop as I wasn't getting what I wanted to hide the seems despite the very awesome advice and tool loan from CVP. Tried using Reaper's glue but it was too thin so used locktite's gel ca but ran out. After the ca cured I ran Reaper's brush on primer over the greenstuff and ca. Noticed where the thin ca didn't work so went and got more of the gel ca. Will go back later to prime that and see where any other work needs doing. 

 

Spent some time on the base. Glued it to Reaper's new 6" round, set some pva for stones and stone flakes/sand, and a little grey basecoat. Some of the stone flakes/sand fell in between the ruin rocks so I painted them into place. Once the pva cures I'll go back and finish grey priming and blending it with the ruins. The goal is to eventually put some still water and bring it up level to  the rocks. 

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Edited by nakos
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 Late last night did some more priming of the ca. Decided to try some experiments on wash colors based on some feedback weekend before last. Tested SW's purple wash, a yellow artist ink, green black wash, and a thinned black ink. The horns got the purple wash(left)  and yellow ink(right). I'm leaning heavily towards the yellow ink, esp since I'll be using it on the green flesh. One arm got the green black wash(left) all over the other got the thinned black ink(right) just on the green flesh. 

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Earlier spent some time blending the stones and original base together. I went ahead and poured some Vallejo still water on the six-inch base and painted the entire base with it for that freshly soaked look. I hope that it cures ok since the bottle is five years old. 

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