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Brush-On Primer and Sealer


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I’ve got some of both these products, but I’m not sure exactly how they’re supposed to be used.

 

I’ve tried the primer a few times, but compared to spray primer it’s very liquidy (not a surprise, since it’s a liquid). The issue is I don’t know if it is being properly applied or just running off into the cracks. It doesn’t turn the metal white, but I don’t even know if that is supposed to happen or not. Am I using it correctly?

 

As for the brush-on sealer, what is it for and what does it do? I’m assuming it goes on at the end, and if that means I don’t need to buy yet another aerosol product, that would be swell.

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2 minutes ago, Sophie was taken said:

I’ve got some of both these products, but I’m not sure exactly how they’re supposed to be used.

 

I’ve tried the primer a few times, but compared to spray primer it’s very liquidy (not a surprise, since it’s a liquid). The issue is I don’t know if it is being properly applied or just running off into the cracks. It doesn’t turn the metal white, but I don’t even know if that is supposed to happen or not. Am I using it correctly?

 

As for the brush-on sealer, what is it for and what does it do? I’m assuming it goes on at the end, and if that means I don’t need to buy yet another aerosol product, that would be swell.

Brush on primer- shake it up well and apply all over the figure with older or cheap brush. Apply liberally. 

 

Brush on sealer - is a semi-gloss varnish. Shake up and apply with older brush or cheap brush. It deals the paint to the mini so it doesn’t rub off with handling. A lot of us also spray testors dull cote (or similar) matte varnish over this to knock down the shine for better pics and add another layer of protection. 

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7 minutes ago, ub3r_n3rd said:

Brush on primer- shake it up well and apply all over the figure with older or cheap brush. Apply liberally. 

 

Brush on sealer - is a semi-gloss varnish. Shake up and apply with older brush or cheap brush. It deals the paint to the mini so it doesn’t rub off with handling. A lot of us also spray testors dull cote (or similar) matte varnish over this to knock down the shine for better pics and add another layer of protection. 

 

Brush on sealer:

  • Good for equalizing the specularity (shininess) of paints if you use both matt and gloss paints.
  • Also a good way to thin paint for glazes/filters.
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 The primer doesn't need to completely cover the metal with an opaque coat.  Like Ub3r said, shake it very, very well.  If you're uncertain you can use two coats, but it's just a bonding layer.  You're right that you don't want a ton of it settling in the crevices.  

 

Sealer works like Ub3r said.  You can also mix the sealer with your paints to help make smooth, translucent layers.  

 

Some people live in climates that are unfavorable for aerosols, myself I just prefer to not deal with the fumes. 

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 Also keep in mind that you can use careful application of the sealer as a "save point" - when you've just finished something on the mini that might get messed up or rubbed off when you paint around it, you can very carefully apply a thin layer of the sealer over just that part, and let it dry completely before you start painting again. Then, if you screw up and get paint on the part you'd finished, you can quickly dip your brush or a paper towel into a bit of water and wipe off the mistake without screwing up the work underneath it.

 

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On 10/9/2017 at 7:28 PM, LittleBluberry said:

 The primer doesn't need to completely cover the metal with an opaque coat.  Like Ub3r said, shake it very, very well.  If you're uncertain you can use two coats, but it's just a bonding layer.  You're right that you don't want a ton of it settling in the crevices.  

 

Sealer works like Ub3r said.  You can also mix the sealer with your paints to help make smooth, translucent layers.  

 

Some people live in climates that are unfavorable for aerosols, myself I just prefer to not deal with the fumes. 

 As LiittleBlueberry said its best if you apply 2 or 3 very thin coats.  I never use water on my brush when applying the primer as it seems to thin the chemical composition out and it doesnt allow an even coat. I prefer to mix a drop of lahmian medium or matte acrylic extender to help thin it out. I personally prefer brush on primer and have found differences in brands. 

Edited by Tjrez
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It's been mentioned, but I'm going to reiterate. Shake these products a lot, more than you need to with paint. Smack the bottom of the bottle to make sure the agitator bead is loose and then shake some more. Undiluted rush on primer shouldn't be thin to the point of runny.

With the sealer it's important to shake because the matting agent is heavier and concentrates at the bottom. So you need to shake the bottle consistently throughout its lifespan or you risk getting frosting effects on your figures when you get to the last third or so of the bottle.

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Everything is already covered, but as I recently tried the MSP brush-on primer (I had other brush-on primers in stockpile) I can report it is actually a tiny touch thicker than Reaper Pro Paint II primer and a bit thicker than that over original pro paint primer.  So if it's runny then shake it until it begs for mercy.

 

I actually had to thin mine a little after shaking to get it into some small areas.  So if it's properly shaken it may not turn the piece super-duper white, but it should be pretty white*.  Overall I'm impressed, which is good because my stockpile of Pro Paint II primer is dwindling.  I hoped the MSP would be nearly as good, and it turned out maybe even a bit better. 

 

*this is in one coat, in multiple coats it can go extremely white and is good if you want a bright white base for something (like fire) without using a lot of white paint. 

 

It is also remarkably free of brush-strokes and comes out pretty level even if it's used a bit sloppily.  5-star stuff.

 

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So one, very minor, silly sounding point to add:  Don't store the bottles upside down.  I mention this because someone I know actually did prefer to store his paints upside down, and the matting agent Wren mentioned all settled into the tip of the bottle.  The tip of the bottle is the one place that the agitator can't reach, therefore when he next used his sealer he ended up ruining his paint job.  

 

I assume this wisdom also applies to primer.  

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I love RMS Brush On Sealer. I use it for many applications outside of sealing. I used the Brush-On Primer for many years until I moved to Stynylrez. While not necessary, I often add a second hematite agitator bead to both of these, just to help with the shaking up of things. 

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