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Ral Partha Shadowrun Feathered Serpent 10-861 (all metal)

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So the first thing I had to solve was a potentially serious issue with assembly.  This kit wasn't really designed to be lead, so that part on the right of the picture is a very heavy solid piece and i

So back in October 2017, the night before my first trip to Reapercon, I happened to be on eBay.ca and randomly stumbled across a Ral Partha Shadowrun Feathered Serpent listed by a seller located in Ca

So the next step was to drybrush some pro paint shield brown to help bring it back up a bit, and then over this I did a light drybrush of coat d'arms festering brown:     After loo

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So I finished up the base:




And then moved on to the head and neck first.  So I chose coat d'arms Bogey Green for this because it's an intermediate green and I know itcovers well.  I darkened it with reaper brown liner.




Then I decided to do the mouth.  Normally for "monster mouth" I use old pro paint pink and then give it a wash or two of coat d'arms flesh shade.  This works pretty good on small mouths, but I learned doing my reaper Faceless Horror recently that it's less effective on big mouths... and our feathered friend here has a big mouth.  So I mixed pro paint pink with pro paint rust until I figured it looked right, and painted it on:




The tongue in this next pic looks like that same colour, but is actually a different colour.  I didn't add enough red to it, so I'll fix that on the next coat.  I also figured it was time to sort out the more vibrant colours and how the colour pattern will go on.  The pattern was actually really easy, it just goes green/blue/yellow/red everywhere there's a transition.  So I picked coat d'arms high elf blue and blood red for those midtones, darkened 'em with brown liner, and tried them out.  Then I mixed  coat d'arms barbarian leather and sun yellow to try and make a dark yellow for the basecoat.  This sort of worked, but I think using old pro paint hawkwood would be the better (and simpler) choice.  Also I did this the stupid way, and should have put the yellow on first instead of after the blue and red.  I'll have to go over it with some white to fix that, but it's no big deal and at least now I have a colour plan.




Speaking of doing things the stupid way, back on page one I showed how I cut off the joining nub with an x-acto blade... and in the same post I mentioned cutting the brad nail with a hacksaw.  It never occured to me to use the hacksaw to cut off the nub, which would have been a lot easier.  Well, now you know what to do if you don't have a hacksaw.


Also, if this progress seems slower than usual for me, it is.  I'm deliberately dragging this out because I'm waiting on greenstuff.  I have three different batches inbound from different sources, so whichever one shows up first. 

Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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So it's been some weeks, but I finally have some greenstuff.  As I mentioned in the previous post, I got some from several different places in the hopes one of them might arrive sooner than the rest... only to have all of them show up within a day of each other.  So it took longer than expected, but the good news is I got some very special putty to use on this very special dragon. 


Like many people here, I have long struggled with greenstuff epoxy putty.  It just... never seemed to work out.  In the beginning I just mixed it together as it came, later I discovered that you should cut out the middle section where the blue and yellow parts join since that cures quickly.  But still it never seemed to work out right. 


So at Reapercon I met Bob Ridolfi and Julie Guthrie (who are fantastic people, btw, absolutely the best) and took the opportunity to ask them some questions, being's how they'd be the ones to know all about putty.  And as it turned out, my problem all along was the putty I was buying wasn't very fresh.  In fact, it was very much not fresh.  They told me to check back at the end of the con and they've give me some samples of good putty so I'd be able to tell the difference.  I didn't take this home in my carry-on on the grounds that squares of weird-looking stuff might cause security delays - perhaps excessively paranoid of me, but better safe than stranded.  So @Guindyloo took it home with her and mailed it to me with some other stuff.  So now that it's here, I can use Bob and Julie's personal stash on this beastie and find out what good greenstuff should be like!


First I had to attach the wings. 




I removed the tabs from these because they were preventing a snug fit, replacing them with some pins I made from small paperclips.  You can see my drill guide markings here in red, two pins per wing:




Time to putty!  Turns out the good stuff is very smooth and soft, not much trouble at all (thanks, Julie and Bob! )  So I filled in the gaps and smoothed it out a bit:




making sure to get it into the underside crevice here:




and here





Time to make it look like something!  The existing detail looked a bit like broccoli base, so I decided to do that.  So anyone wondering how to make a broccoli base, this is how you do it.  The existing detail is not quite broccoli, but it's easier to go full broccoli with my noob skills than attempt a perfect match.  Primer and paint will fill some of it in anyway so when it's finished it should be a decently close blended match. 


Here is my poking tool:




And with it i start poking the GS:




And then poke it some more.  Done yet?  NO!  MORE POKING!




A lot more!  But eventually, if you poke it long enough, it gets to looking right.  Pretty easy!




Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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Once the putty dried it was time to prime the wings:




That done, I decided to coat the works with some slightly-thinned Reaper brown liner.  This is because I intend to use a dark green (coat d'arms dark elf green) and dark blue (reaper pro paint breonne navy) that I strongly suspect will be rather translucent.  The brown liner will keep me from having to do 50 coats to get an even base.




Then I painted in some of the dark elf green:




And then I roughed in the underwing pattern of blue, yellow, and red.  The yellow is old pro paint hawkwood, which I chose for its good coverage, and the red is old pro paint aged red brick which I chose for the same reason:




Then did the same for the top:




That done, I wanted to see if I could come up with something to help make the pattern look less like some go-ganger spraypainted this serpent as part of their inititation.  My first thought was to stagger the pattern on each individual feather, which you will see in the next picture.  This wasn't going to work because it just looked weirdly pixelly.  Instead I'm just going to chevron the colours along the lines of the feathers - this will work, I've already done it on one wing, but for some reason I forgot to take a picture.  So for now, here's the ugly bit I decided was definitely a bad idea:





Edited by buglips*the*goblin
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Nice find!  I collected RP SR figs for a long time and never even saw this model for sale. 


Are you going for a blended rainbow effect on the wings? If so, consider the order you put the colors down. Try green ->blue ->red -> (orange) ->yellow.   Right now the yellow between the blue and red kind of makes it look like a native blanket, not feathers. 



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1 hour ago, Inarah said:

Nice find!  I collected RP SR figs for a long time and never even saw this model for sale.


Are you going for a blended rainbow effect on the wings? If so, consider the order you put the colors down. Try green ->blue ->red -> (orange) ->yellow.   Right now the yellow between the blue and red kind of makes it look like a native blanket, not feathers.




The reference art shows green/blue/yellow/red.  As a rule, when I paint a licensed figure I try to stay close to the artwork (if I can find it).  This is mostly so I don't get griefed by Drizzt or other character fans, but in this instance since I'm logging a rare example I thought it best to stick close to prototype as this WIP may linger on the internet quite a while.

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Yes, I have the box.  You can see in that picture that the front relief on the wing is green, followed by blue, (green), yellow, (orange), red.  The parts in parentheses are zones where yellow interacts with adjacent colours, so those can be ignored until blending.  This leaves green/blue/yellow/red as the base pattern, and since I work dark-to-light I am now blocking those in. 

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4 hours ago, 72moonglum said:

Did this one ever get finished Master Buglips?




1 hour ago, Kangaroorex said:

I hope so!  I would love to see the finished product!



It is no longer in mint condition on account of the fire that destroyed my house back in July. 

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