Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Dalth

Minotaur PC for Talespinners campaign - Finished.

Recommended Posts

When you're learning new stuff the thing to keep in mind is that while there's a lot of information to digest, most of it can break down into discrete, smaller bits.  So it's always good to keep trying and practicing new things, but it doesn't mean you should try all of it at once!  For many parts of a mini there are several ways to approach them, so the key is to try different things as they come along when opportunity allows on each new miniature.  This will help keep you from being overwhelmed by things to try out and let you figure things out as you go.  When you find a new technique or helpful bit of advice, part of the learning is replicating the steps presented - but the extra level of learning is figuring out why those steps work.  That's where lots of practice comes in, because as you get better you'll combine things you learn into a working method.  You can think of this as your toolbox, where each new thing is another tool to have handy when you need it. 

 

All of it is, in principle, easy enough to learn with sufficient practice.  The key to painting is to paint!  Paint as much as you can as fearlessly as you can!

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, buglips*the*goblin said:

When you're learning new stuff the thing to keep in mind is that while there's a lot of information to digest, most of it can break down into discrete, smaller bits.  So it's always good to keep trying and practicing new things, but it doesn't mean you should try all of it at once!  For many parts of a mini there are several ways to approach them, so the key is to try different things as they come along when opportunity allows on each new miniature.  This will help keep you from being overwhelmed by things to try out and let you figure things out as you go.  When you find a new technique or helpful bit of advice, part of the learning is replicating the steps presented - but the extra level of learning is figuring out why those steps work.  That's where lots of practice comes in, because as you get better you'll combine things you learn into a working method.  You can think of this as your toolbox, where each new thing is another tool to have handy when you need it. 

 

All of it is, in principle, easy enough to learn with sufficient practice.  The key to painting is to paint!  Paint as much as you can as fearlessly as you can!

 

 

 

QFT. I would stick to playing with basecoats on your metals and working on blending and enjoying your painting. Going whole hog on TMM right now would have discouraged me. 

 

Also, too: the whole point of ReaperCon seems to be to be humbled and then learn from the experience. The last year for me has been working on Rhonda Bender's highlighting with texturing. I think this next year is going to be basing and weathering. We'll see what the new year brings.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, Pingo said:

Corporea is awesome. ^_^

 

Yes she is, but she was nearly ready to take a swing at me (or at least lecture me sternly :D ) at reapercon when I made a joke about vaccines causing autism.  

 

Quote

I often glaze a little something over my metallics.

 

That is very cool.  I think I may have to try something like that... Well maybe not quite like that, but I think I may have to try a little glaze over the gold scroll work.

 

37 minutes ago, buglips*the*goblin said:

but the extra level of learning is figuring out why those steps work.

 

Good advice :)  I've noticed that after having worked for a little bit with glazing I've found several things about it have clicked, like how you can use it to as someone else put it "sneak up on the color" for me I realized that the beauty of a glaze is you can stop when you get the color where you want it, rather than trying to make the color on your brush look different.  Like if I want a little bit of a shadow, I can simply use less coats to get a darker but not too dark look.

 

I'm not going to claim that I'm by any means an expert on how to use a glaze but I think I really understand how and why it works, because I can start to see how I can use it to get the effect in my head onto the mini.

Edited by Dalth
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Corporea is a medical professional who takes these things very seriously.  I have a friend who works in a pediatric ER who is just the same.

 

Sounds like you have a solid grounding to work from.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, Pingo said:

Corporea is a medical professional who takes these things very seriously. 

 

Yes, that's why I made the joke I did.  :B):

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's really good Dalth.  If you think your skills are bad you ain't seen nothing :) I am definitely feeling that finger painting level at my stage.  How about a base on it ? it would set it nicely?  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
52 minutes ago, londwch said:

How about a base on it ? it would set it nicely?  

Yeah will be making a base for it at the end.  It's actually a rather top heavy model because it's hunched over and the head and shoulders are even over the base, plus the arms... So it won't stand up on that base.

 

The guy I'm making it for has a base that I'll be using if he can find it.  Otherwise I'll cut out a 2" square of MDF and glue the model to it, use some putty to make it level with the base he's on and then flock/turf/ect...  

Edited by Dalth
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's Koren after tonight's work.  I'm really pretty happy with it, thanks in no small part due to the advice here.  :)  Other then basing him I'm not sure how much more I want to do.  But if anyone has any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.

 

5a20b071932ca_koren1.png.7dc4101be5d186bdbea82c8fdc9476e6.png5a20b077965dd_koren3.png.2984e7503c81c465e6bb6dfa9acde0be.png5a20b07ca496c_koren4.png.d11ed94f4d16974e678ffa83c9768757.png

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking that once I have him based I'll have to try and recreate that top picture in the above post and use it as my Avatar... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not the greatest pictures... I think I may need to invest in a inexpensive photo booth...

 

But here's the final product.  Although I may need to put another bit of black on the bottom.  The base is made out of MFD I cut, and then glued the plastic base to it.  Then used greenstuff to build up the MFD to match the level of the plastic base with it tapered towards the edges. 

 

5a26a90c70361_korenfinished2.png.b36ad8ea58c5c00a59a5341a340e94b6.png5a26a90f5ce5d_korenfinished.png.37505ca4409cf474a88601991e433341.png

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a solid effort and shows good brush control.   Colour selection is also good.  The primary things you'll want to look into as you move onto you next project are lining and getting more contrast.  Lining is pretty easy, it's mostly just putting a dark line where different materials meet.  So like between the gold and the red on his armor bits, or between the gold rings and his horns.  But not, say, between his fingers.  There are a few ways to go about lining, but to start with you'll want to do it at an early stage rather than nearer the end - this will give you some wiggle room in case you have to do touch-up.  Lining is a good way to add easy contrast and pop.  My preference is to line after completing the basecoat, that might work for you as well but you can do it at any stage you find works best for you.

 

For your colours, or more accurately each colour section, you're going to want to work in some shading and highlights.  This works well with lining and both serve the same purpose: to use the 3D details on the figure to make it pop.  With the brush control you show here, neither of these things should prove overly difficult it'll just take some practice. 

 

It's probably best to think of it as going in stages, so lining and shading/highlighting is the next step up.  You did a good job on Mr. Beef here, so the next stage is trying out some stuff that will work with skills you already have and help amplify them to give you more to work with.  On average it'll take you between 3-10 minis to get the hang of layering, mostly getting a feel for what the paint is going to do.  It'll click into place, though, and I'd bet you'll get an instinct for it in less time than it took me to. 

 

That'll give you all the core elements, and beyond that everything builds off those essentials.   

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, buglips*the*goblin said:

Lining is pretty easy, it's mostly just putting a dark line where different materials meet.  So like between the gold and the red on his armor bits, or between the gold rings and his horns.  But not, say, between his fingers.

 

I'll keep that in mind for my next one.  I hadn't considered it but I can see how that would make it pop.  I think doing it after the base coat makes sense too.  :)  But it did really do wonders for the muscle groups, where I darklined around them.  But it doesn't always show up well in the pictures I'm taking.

 

Quote

For your colours, or more accurately each colour section, you're going to want to work in some shading and highlights. 

 

You mean like more dark on the low points to light on the high points?  I did do that with Mr Beef some but it again doesn't show up as well in the picture.  But it is something I'll work more on on the next nice mini.

 

I think my next project may be a batch of 'nameless thugs' for a Starfinder campaign I'm running, so those will be done at basic tabletop quality, nothing worth showing off here.  

 

But thanks for the advice.  After Reapercon I decided I want to step up my painting to the next level(s) and get to at least Silver level painting.  So having advice on how to improve and what techniques I can use to keep making better looking models is very welcome.  Between advice here and a call from Talespinner letting me know what I could do to fix some stuff, this model is way better then what I could do if I hadn't posted it here and got good feedback.

Edited by Dalth
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pictures can be a pain so it might not show up very well, but more dark on the low points to light on the high points is the key.  At first you'll probably tend towards very little contrast because it feels weird to really push it.  But this is okay, because you'll want to get some practice in with the layering so you have smooth transitions.  So it's better to work up to it than to try too much contrast straight off, because if it doesn't come out smooth it'll just seem like you did it wrong and steer you back towards more muted tones.  Best way to go about it is maybe get it to a point you're comfortable with and then look for a way to squeeze a bit more out of it.  As you do this you should naturally begin to push the outer boundaries of your shades and highlights and get higher contrast without having to overthink it, and each new model will begin to pop a little bit more each time. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, buglips*the*goblin said:

Best way to go about it is maybe get it to a point you're comfortable with and then look for a way to squeeze a bit more out of it. 

 

That's kinda what I did with the cockpits on my CAV's...  The advice I got there was to make it both darker and lighter then I think I should.  I did that and I liked the effect.

 

For Koren, I had at one point done the muscles with a dark tan highlight.  Talespinner mentioned it was too stark, so I did a few glazes with the red/brown base color over it.  I felt it was a bit too muted but Rick was very happy with how it looked, and it's his character and model so if he's happy...  But I always wondered if I couldn't of done a better job of it.

 

So next one I work on, which is 60102: Trinia Sabor I'll make a point of more/better shading.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...