Jump to content

TaleSpinner

Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

Recommended Posts

Well the casting worked.  I learned a lot about working with high-temp metals.  Here is the tree after I quenched the mold:

 

IMG_E2865.JPG.a886a553872b678dc9ac97a2923bb9c3.JPG

 

 

After that I cut them off and cleaned each with water and a toothbrush.  I should note that I had one flaw in this casting, the leg wires were a bit too thin where they meet the body and only one of the models filled completely (the center one in the following photo).  That said, all the shell filled perfectly as did the arm wires.  Only 2 bubbles happened and they are easily removed.  You will note that I lost two feet, this was due to me making an error in cutting them off, launching them into the corners of my basement. Oops.

 

IMG_E2866.JPG.64e4a4fad7a36c362c9a6c107b3fd338.JPG

 

 

For those legs not connected, that isn't a problem, I can always just remove the pin, drill a hole in them and attach them with wire.  If I ever make more, I'll be sure to add a bit of extra wax to that part of them.

 

You'll note some reddish stains, that is firescale (I believe) and is to be expected when casting a copper-based alloy.  It should remove easily in a sulfuric acid pickle (which I'll do later this week).  I played with the castings and I am not convinced that I like this bronze.  It is very hard, harder than the tin based bronze I've played with.  I can bend the arms and such, but forging the feet spikes is proving difficult as this bronze doesn't want to deform as I had expected.  If I do this again, I may use pewter, just because the hardness of this bronze out weighs the gains I get in its ductility.  Live an learn right; at least I now feel ready to try a silver casting.

 

Andy

  • Like 19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 8:46 AM, Kang said:

Thanks for setting me straight GHarris, I kind of figured the c-clamps might be too good to be true.  ::D:  As a self-taught amateur in foundry work for the past 4+ years, one thing I've learned is to always take note of the voice of hard-earned experience. 

 

I have built a couple of melting furnaces and other foundry tools for the hobby foundry in my backyard, but I haven't done any lost wax casting or spin casting, and I've definitely never cast anything this tiny and detailed, so your insight is appreciated.   My experience with making larger castings in aluminum and bronze in greensand molds has taught me that there are good and bad places to take a DIY Approach - ie. assuming there is no big hurry, DO save money by building your own melting furnace and welding up your own crucible tongs... But if you want your gear to work well and work safely and last a long time, DON'T line said homemade furnace with homemade refractory or try to make your own crucibles...

 

Not ready to eat my hat quite yet though - I only said a spin casting setup could be built just as well for a fraction of the cost of buying one.  Your numbers (although fairly old) have already shaved 5-7K off Talespinner's pricing without even considering any sort of DIY...  I'll concede that building a setup like this from scratch that works as well as a purchased one would not be practical for most people. 

 

Kang

 

No hat eating necessary! Well unless you are on a high fiber diet....get it? High fiber? Er right, moving on then!

 

The other thing I'd want to do with a vulcanizer is have the ability to slowly add clamping pressure as the mold is heating up as well as have the ability to "burp" the mold to try to get trapped air out. Basically you add and relieve pressure a few times as the mold is heating up to try to get any bubbles out. I will admit that I don't know if it actually does anything but I learned it from FAR better moldmakers than myself and I had good results. Why mess with what seemed to be working?

 

A melting furnace may be a bit more DIY friendly, basically it is just a big pot that gets, well, hot. As long as you can control the temperature, be safe, and have it mounted at an ergonomic height (save the strain on your back!) you really don't have to get all that fancy. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fiber-based Dad jokes are definitely one of my Things, so no worries there - I totally get it and fully approve.   

 

Once the rubber in the vulcanizer heats up and starts to move under all that heat and pressure, it must relieve some of said pressure. So I can see why periodically tightening it down during the process makes sense...  I wonder how the guy in that video I posted above deals with that - I bet he grabs some oven mitts every few minutes so he can crank each of those C-clamps a quick quarter turn or so tighter.  ::D: 

 

Kang

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, the basilisk is done, back to these guys.  

 

Using a length of silver coated copper wire (can't remember the gauge), I forged a sword blank on my jeweler's anvil last night.  This consisted of making a point in the wire, flattening it with a hammer, truing-up the sides and straightening it, re-flattening, twisting the hilt and forging the twists together, then grinding it on some sand paper.  I also shored up the hilt with some Apoxie:GS as it was getting pretty work-hardened by the end of the forging and I was worried that there might be a crack forming where the hilt meets the unforged copper wire.

 

I will add Apoxie:GS to this then to form the sword and sculpt the details.  Then I will make a mold of it so I can cast as many copies as I need.

 

IMG_E3061.JPG.8903d11f9e710699ca994f7407247d18.JPGIMG_E3063.JPG.91ed8a21d21e171328b6c453f71893f0.JPGIMG_E3062.JPG.c6526a918a92f48fb9c5edc44270cf66.JPG

 

 

This sword will be modeled after a Han Dynasty Sword:

 

Han-dynasty-swords-Handmade-Chinese-Anci

JK093_4_l.jpg

JK093_2_l.jpg

 

I will probably make the cross guard into a play on the turtle shell or the hexagon shapes in their shells.

  • Like 18

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I added Apoxie:Gs mix to the blade and when hard, filed the planes of the blade into it.

 

Then I wrapped the hilt with GS and made the disk pommel.

 

IMG_E3071.JPG.2fe2a01d37c827300ca45087a79e4d20.JPG

 

 

Finally, I sculpted the guard.  I decided to vary a bit from the historical Han guard, and instead match the scutes on the back of the turtle shell.  This is a theme you will likely see throughout the line. Here is the finished blade

 

IMG_E3072.JPG.185fa394091e38755598cb325adca803.JPG IMG_E3078.JPG.0ffecd543932a7cd5f2323e7ca2e3d7c.JPG

 

 

Next, I started the butterfly sword.  I first rough shaped it on my anvil from copper wire:

 

IMG_E3075.JPG.02d43b0c068bac4f72b08c2d99b30fce.JPG

 

 

Then I finished the shape with my diamond files:

 

IMG_E3077.JPG.c4c694f03e8a0a09fb96737702df9890.JPG

 

 

I have already thickened the blade with Apoxie:GS, and will be filing that to shape today.

 

 

This project has officially drawn blood.  I was drilling out one of the body armatures last night, when the shell slipped out of my grip.  The drill bit plunged though the center of my thumb nail and went 5 to 7 mm into my thumb. Thankfully, it went in at an angle so it missed the bone.  I'm just hoping that I don't have any beeswax or bronze under the nail.

 

I have to say that the bronze I used is really hard stuff.  It isn't nearly as ductile as I was hoping.  I might try annealing it to see if that softens it a bit.  As it is, I can see why the ancients were able to make sharp weapons from the stuff.

 

I'm considering trying a casting with straight copper, but I'm not sure that I can get it hot enough to pour in my melt furnace. Copper melts at 1984 deg F, and my furnace goes to 2000 deg F.  Really you should have the metal 100 degrees over melt to pour. 

  • Like 11
  • Sad 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Annealing the bronze will be easier than making good castings in straight copper, from all I've seen and read.  Copper loves to oxidize, especially when molten...

 

The swords look great!  Easy for me to say when it's not my blood, I know, but IMO it was worth all that pain.  Happy healing!

 

Kang

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These are so cool! What a neat concept. Although I'd have to respectfully disagree with you on the capability of turtles to be expressive, but these are looking really great so far and I can't wait to see the sculpts you end up with out of the new process.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have one more weapon to make.  This will be a type of 2 handed curved Chinese sword, similar in nature to Middle-Eastern curved swords, but with a longer handle for powerful blows. I'm not sure if this will make the first three turtles, as I was going to go with a staff on one, but I can fit three weapons on a mold, so I wanted to get a third ready before I mold the others.

 

References:


 

Spoiler

 

s-l300.jpg 31w9zPvCH2L.jpg

Dadao-2-handed-sword-from-china-literal-

 

 

 

 

I forged and ground the blade last night, then thickened it with Apoxie:GS:

 

IMG_E3079.JPG.9a6a70fb0fded067fa5cbcf732cfe025.JPGIMG_E3080.JPG.b6ed17b1993505e01aa0a0a3250d47d2.JPG

 

 

Today, I will make the handle. I will make is more like what the guy in the references is holding, as it will fill better during casting that the ring or thin, backward spike on the guard of the other one. I also appreciate that it is too curved and shaped a bit too much like a shamshir.  That is purposeful.  Once molded, I will be able to make it into a shamshir someday as well.  I can also make it look like what the guy is holding above with a small amount of forge work and grinding after casting, or even alter the wax before casting..

  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finished the sword hilt.  I'll likely sand it a bit yet, but it is good for a basic design for casting.  I'll likely add embellishments to it at some point after casting or not.  The point is I can reproduce it as much as I need.

 

IMG_E3081.JPG.54b8372e3aab7c93e9a69dd045919eaf.JPG

 

 

Then I went on to rough in the shape of the turtle head.  I'll add the scale and beak details later tonight.

 

IMG_E3084.JPG.07d39c26a9a63ff7e32de126528f103d.JPGIMG_E3083.JPG.facfd9994e89d0dcfdc834113ede76fc.JPGIMG_E3082.JPG.0b22dc3c6ae656861e29bb6864fff565.JPG

 

 

  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Rainbow Sculptor said:

Looking really great, that curves sword is BOSS! Love it. I hope you're thing is feeling better, when people ask so you say that you don't a Ninja turtle and lost? I would.

 

Thanks.

 

My nail looks like hell, but feels fine.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I realized that I forgot to post the finished butterfly sword:

 

IMG_E3085.JPG.de31f7e6711b163bed5623eae12c7839.JPG

 

 

I'll be adding the D guard after the hand is sculpted in place. In case you don't know what a butterfly sword is:

 

Spoiler

Cold-Steel-Butterfly-Sword-Set-Satin-BHQ

 

They are paired swords that fit under your robes in one sheath. Often used by ancient Chinese monks.

 

 

I put all three swords on an injection sprue and then prepared the mold:

 

IMG_E3086.JPG.bccd9bcf82f79b9f21d6ee70318dca9b.JPG

 

IMG_E3088.JPG.cad154dcacd1144526a2db819edeaf1c.JPG

 

 

 

The mold came out great.  The center sword separated, but I was expecting that. It is still in line though, so cutting a flow channel is easy.

 

IMG_E3089.JPG.cb9d38f4bd4df6c3d236ea2f57df262f.JPG

 

 

Here is a wax cast in the mold:

 

IMG_E3090.JPG.c603d164a206c734a323eeb70a380f2c.JPG

 

 

I made a lot of copies last night. Injecting wax is fun, and quite satisfying.

 

IMG_E3091.JPG.88ba8da285865a8a57eb65083cb25b4f.JPG

 

 

I also worked on the turtle head, but can't for the life of me get the camera to focus on it.  Sorry.  I should have that done today and will be molding it tonight.

  • Like 19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got the turtle head done and molded last night. It looks like a snake with a beak because it has no eyelids.  That will allow me to better add expression to each figure later.

 

 I'll cast up some copies, clean the waxes, and tree them tonight.  I'm hoping to cast them on Sunday.

 

IMG_E3094.JPG.c14e7bf4e2a614eeb87a44711f211aef.JPGIMG_E3095.JPG.cf8f61d8c1dd9f7e3ae14946ab982647.JPGIMG_3097.JPG.85905b48a434145a0f1db0bb47341c5f.JPG

  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By rubegon
      As commanded by the very, well, commanding @Glitterwolf, I’m going to paint this big boy.  I’ve been eyeing him on the corner of my desk for months now, and to be honest I’m a little afraid of him.  He’s probably going to look somewhere between terrible and mediocre by the time I’m done, but at least he won’t be grey anymore.
       
      I’m probably going to use the airbrush that I barely know how to operate quite a bit.
       
      I think we’re going to need a bigger brush ...
      I only have up to a size 2, which I guess would be like mowing the grass with nail clippers.  Should I get a size ... 4?
       
      All are very welcome to critique/comment/heckle/throw tomatoes/etc.  I need and will be very grateful for any advice and assistance I receive, but please don’t be too disappointed if it doesn’t do very much good.
       

    • By Rainbow Sculptor
      Hey everyone! It's been a long while since I could post on here, I've been really busy with work. I've started a new commission piece from a client I won't name just yet but whom has given me permission to share my sketches/WIPs/ and sculpting process with you guys! 
       
      The project is to sculpt several nereids/sirens/water nymph type characters. One full body and at least two others partially submerged. They should be gorgeous and make men want to leap to their deaths so I'm avoiding any monstrous type features. Although we want them to be mostly humanoid I will be adding in some little features to indicate their magical/watery/fey nature. 
       
      Here are my initial sketches where I'm exploring posing, body types, and the kind of shape language I will want to use in the sculpts. My drawing hand was failing me today so these are REALLY rough but I got my ideas down and I'll have enough to move to the next stage which will be creating a mannequin in ZBrush.  
       
      *Apologies for the more sexual images. These aren't intended to be offensive in any way merely educational on the topic of character design*
       


    • By Pegazus
      Yes, a 2020 ReaperCon WIP! And a massive undertaking at that. I'm trying very hard not to nerd out and put this whole project into, er, Project. There's just so many pieces to keep track of, that maybe I'll just use this first post to keep track of things.
       
      Some background stuff, starting with a quote from the "Paint a giant robot! Group WIP" where I wrote some of what's planned:
       
      You can read the rest of that post here: Paint a giant robot post and a second one to see where I'm going with this: PLA print post in same topic
       
      Biggest takeaway is that, while useful, my PLA printer can only do so much. I have a resin printer backed on Kickstarter, but considering it's now 3 years late, I don't think I should hold my breath on it ever showing up. Especially when I can get a new Elegoo Mars resin printer with more capability for relatively cheap (<$300). The PLA machine was bought with both hobby and household goals in mind, and it's served well. But the resolution just ain't there! More on that down the posts.
       
      I also had the chance to gain some experience on  paper plants at ReaperCon (Main post for that in the Terrain section post here: Vellum Paper Plants - Alien Jungle (WIP)
       
      Basically, I have the scrap booking machine to make my own alien plants:
       
      Which now leads me to this WIP. This is going to tie all those pieces together. The robot WIP will still be to get a good camo scheme, but that print job is not going to be used for the final diorama. Instead, that will be the resin printer's job. So, let's break down the WIP work that I can see so far, and will be edited later to add things and mark completions.
       
      Tasks to be completed:
       
      Figures Needed
      Wight (being pulled down backwards, caught by hidden lines) Gremlin Unit 01 (stole a supply crate and ran; actually just bait to get the larger CAV to follow) Gremlin Units 02 and 03 (trip line pair, successfully snagging Wight across the chest) Gremlin Units 04 and 05 (trip line pair, successful across another part of the chest) Gremlin Unit 06 (burner unit, cut Wight's left gun in two) Gremlin Units 07 and 08 (trap door unit, hiding entrance to jungle path with camo doors strapped to them) Gremlin Units 09 and 10 (trip line pair, successful across right thigh) Gremlin Units 11 and 12 (trip line pair, broken cable across chest, possibly falling over from sudden jolt) Gremlin Unit 13 (ECM unit, some large radar dish looking thing) Gremlin Units 14, 15 and 16 (cargo units, loaded up with stolen supplies and headed out) Gremlin Units 17, 18, 19, and 20 (gun units) Gremlin Units 21, 22, and 23 (missile units) Gremlin Unit 24 (large gun unit) Gremlin Unit 25 and 26 (junked units; scavenged for parts?) Gremlin Unit 27 (2nd style missile unit) Gremlin Unit 28 (personnel carrier unit)  
      Wight Conversion
      Right Leg: cut from pelvis; reposition Feet: cut off both feet and swap positions since the tread is only on one foot Base: cut away from right foot, possibly keeping full base around left foot Left arm (maybe): cut gun into two pieces, having one falling to the ground after being cut by a heat lance/chainsaw rope  
      Details to be included
      Camo doors at front leaving marks on the dirt path, but hiding the ambush from the main trail Pieces of old broken larger CAV units around Wight gun cut in two, maybe showing inner details. May have to 3D print an add-on piece Dust being kicked up by the stolen crate (going to try using dyed cotton) IN WORK One cable snapping dynamically, with several bends and twists (superglue on thread?) Multiple vehicle tracks around camp Campfire and tents for people A latrine Other camp details (laundry, chairs, sports equipment, bored carvings, etc)  
      Jungle Plants (V=Vellum cuts, B=bought, S=Sculpted, F=Found, P=Printed)
      Large lotus flower like plants, but dry land and maybe odd colors with a large conifer cone growing from the middle (V) Jester hat plant (balls on stems around a central point) (V) COMPLETED Spiky yucca like plant (V) Jagged leaf plant (V) Tentacle plant (V) Tripod trees (three spoke trunks) (V) Large palm fronds (S) Coral like trees (P) Horn tree (lots of horn shaped leaves from a central trunk) (P, V) Ball vine (like ivy but with odd leaf shapes) (V) Cabbage-like jungle plants with large wrinkled leaves (V) Fuzzy vines (thin wire coated with static grass) (S) Anything I can buy from N/HO scale train setups and painted alien-ish (B) Reaper figures that can be clipped and painted to be plants (B) Odd trees with strange leaf shapes (onion shaped) (V) IN WORK Random grass-like jungle plants (V) IN WORK Stem ends from mandarin oranges (seriously, pull one off and look at it, stem towards the ground) (F) Anything and everything else (VBSFP)  
      Base mounting system
      Design and print modular tiles with bristles on top (basically, Bristle Block toys) Allows mounting of all the above jungle plants Fill in around plants with thinned plaster via a syringe to create the ground surfaces
    • By cosxcam
      First real attempt at object source lighting.
       
      Model was zenithal primed and painted using glazes and inks

    • By zaran
      I took the shaded metallics class at Reapercon this year and decided to play around with the technique to get a nice and grimy look on the Maggotcrown Ogre Juggernaut from Bones 4, who I’m calling Zombie Shrek. I want to really play up the idea that this skeleton has been in murky swamp water for a long time. 
       
      I’ve blocked out the general metals I want to use and have started playing around with a few sections. Any feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated. 
       

  • Who's Online   26 Members, 2 Anonymous, 219 Guests (See full list)

×