Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
TaleSpinner

Boxer Rebellion: Box-Turtle Folk, WIP

Recommended Posts

13 minutes ago, kristof65 said:

At first I was just going to say "Do what Nike says, and just do it."

But then I got to thinking that a dragon helmet might be too much. 

And I'm being wishy washy now.

I guess at this point, I'd have to say "I'm not sure, but I'll tell you if you do and it looks wrong"

Not terribly helpful, I know..

 

Yeah, that is my fear.  I don't want it to end up being too busy either.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the simple helmet you went with for the first guy. Now that I see him with that, I do think that a fancier dragon helmet would have been too much. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m having great fun following this thread. These guys (girls?) look amazing!

 

Aren’t you going to add the rings at the end of the handles and the fancy pommels on the sabers ?

Edited by Shpam
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, haven't checked in for several weeks, so much progress!  A dragon shaped helmet sounds very cool... 

 

Really though, I'll be happy enough no matter what, as long as they actually use their weapons on their enemies, not just to cut the rope that causes the chandelier to fall and entangle Rocksteady and Bebop.  :)

 

Kang

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

*** Peeks around the corner***

 

*** Am I safe? No interesting reptiles or amphibians here????***

 

*** [email protected]! ***

 

*** Ok, wallet, this might hurt you more than me!***

Edited by Glitterwolf
  • Like 3
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Too bad the bronze you got isn't cooperating so well for making the armatures.  Have you tried annealing them to soften the bronze so it is easier to work?  I know it works for copper...

 

Kang

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Kang said:

Too bad the bronze you got isn't cooperating so well for making the armatures.  Have you tried annealing them to soften the bronze so it is easier to work?  I know it works for copper...

 

Kang

 

Yep, I have to anneal it.  It is the only way I can drill them at all and then it is still pretty hard.  The only problem is if I work harden an area to pose it, then sculpt, then later realize that I need a hole or to bend it, I can't re-anneal without burning the putty.

  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I said before, I want to do the next 6 of these in pewter, because the bronze was so hard to work with. I spent the better part of my weekend preparing the mold.. Friday night, I cast and prepared a wax tree of new shells and heads:

 

IMG_E3659.JPG.b63fddf337a63980562ab6e9e776c8cf.JPG

 

 

I recently ran out of my old investment, so I got a new one that has a better formula that nearly eliminates the air-borne silica particles which is not something one wants to breathe in.  The down side is that this formula requires about 4 hours longer burnout than the old one.  So I mixed the investment on Saturday night after church and let it harden overnight.  Sunday morning, I began the burnout.  Note that I don't actually need to be in attendance for the whole 13 hour process, but I don't like leaving a 1350 deg F oven running without checking on it regularly either.  By the end of the day it was getting late, I was tired and wanted to get to bed.  I did the pour and everything went well.  The downside was that my flask was a bit too hot yet and the pewter wasn't solidifying.  So I let it sit while I helped my wife.  Later, I came down and quenched it, without checking it first.  The metal was still molten in parts of it (how hot did I have it anyway?!).  When I quenched it it ran into the water, ruining the whole mold.  Yesterday, I power-washed it, but nothing was salvageable:

 

:grr:   :down:

 

IMG_E3668.JPG.aee8f94645cba70a3e40bd9280ad35cf.JPG

 

I really need to get these going if I am going to make my December deadline.  Unfortunately, I don't have time to do another casting until mid October, but I need to start these way before then.  Fortunately, I still have three bronze ones left.  I don't want to use them, but they are better than not getting done at all, so last night I annealed and pickled the shells and heads.  These three will give me something to start on until I can cast the other three in October.  Hopefully, the new diamond drill bits I bought at ReaperCon will cut better then my old bits did.

 

IMG_E3669.JPG.7cd94c693422effb0d9ea0dcffe185f5.JPG

  • Like 4
  • Sad 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Vacaroja
      Tiny turtles are adorable! Colors inspired by the northern red-bellied turtle.
       

       

    • By silentoutsidr
      Hi Everyone,

      This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
      I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.

      First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.

      2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.

      3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.

      4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.

      5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.

      6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.

      Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?






    • By Rigel
      I haven't seen a lot of posts with this mini (02997, Serris, female fighter-thief), and that is a shame, because she is MAGNIFICENT. Dynamic and bold, with amazing fantasy hair and the build of a wrasslin' goddess. She's a big girl, too--even hunched over, fully 32mm from toe to top. Great value for $4.99. 


       
      Fighter-thief" is an odd designation, because she looks like a barbarian, in the Red Sonja line (or maybe one of Merida's conquering ancestors). Then again, Conan did a lot of thieving and reaving as well as slaying. She definitely has a Cimmerian torso. Lats for days. 
      Tried to give her a sunburnt-looking partial tan, she being a redhead and all.

      Let's pit her against some monstrous opponents! My character in "Tomb of Annihilation" was a Tortle barbarian with a macahuitl named Mossback. (He venerated the ancestors, especially Great Ancestor Kawa-Bunga,) So the Spikeshells were a natural fit. I love their alligator-snapping-turtle gestalt. The word 'ornery' was MADE for snapping turtles. (and also the American badger, but I digress)
       

       
      And some more shots of the swamp tortles. They were mostly contrast paints, Snakebite Leather and Gore-Grunta Fur. The green of the algae in their shell cracks is AP Disgusting Slime.

    • By Zanderina
      Hello all! I'm working on the blacksting wyvern from bones 4, as you can see from the title. Getting ready to start base coating some color in and noticed an area I'm not sure if it is supposed to be anatomically correct or not filled In from when made. No it does not sit on anything either that they would plug into.
      Any thoughts would be appreciated! 
       
      Happy painting and  stay safe! 
      -Z

    • By Darcstaar
      Well, while I let Devona dry, I’ll switch gears to a mini off the shelf of waiting...
       
      I started Kagunk, Ofre Chieftain a year or two ago.  
       

       
      The plan is for an ice ogre, with blue-gray skin.
  • Who's Online   19 Members, 2 Anonymous, 33 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...