Making larger bases

[Enchantra]

I've been trying out some new techniques with bases.  Instead of working with the itty bitty base that already comes with the mini, I've been gluing the mini directly to a wooden disc that one can find at most hobby/craft stores that looks like a checker but is completely smooth.  I use E600 adhesive to bond the mini to the wood disc and allow it to cure then I paint it as normal.  The base that results is larger, makes it so the mini is harder to tip over, and it gives more painting area, and area to do detail work with.

[Brooding Paladin]

Good idea, Enchantra.  Maybe when I paint better I'll go for something that gives me a little more "real estate" so I can base it really well.  For now I use the square plastic WH bases for a little more stability and basing real estate.

[Kheprera]

Of course, I'm spoilied in owning a router, but I buy strips of wood (pine or oak), cut them down into squares, and use a pencil to trace around the base of the mini. Then, using my router, I'll route out a small indentation where the mini will sit, glue it in there, and then base that.

 

Still don't have any pics, though.

 

I have this thing for power tools.  :D

[Lars Porsenna]

Hiya,

 

If you're going that route, rather than using wooden circles, try using washers instead. Some of my Reaper figures are mounted on washers (until I started mounting them in cut-out round slotta-bases...less work!). The same advantages apply here: dirt cheap, bigger surface. PLus they're more durable, and can be easily transported; just line a toolbox with magnetic sheets and stick the figures on!

 

Damon.

[Enchantra]

Well, I don't own power tools and I do not currently have washers and really do not like the idea of mounting things on metal.  But this is what I do:

 

After the adhesive has dried, I take something called "snowtex" and apply this to the wooden disk and make sure that I use a bit of it on the actual mini's base to so that when I am done the entire base is covered and as it dries, the base of the mini and the wooden base look as if they are one and the same.  

 

Before the snowtex dries I usually imbed silica gel pellets into it here and there for rocks.  when everything is dry I usually paint the textured surface some variety of forest green with viridian drybrushing, and then use browns and greys to paint the silica gel pellet rocks.

 

The snowtex can also be used for crystal effects on the bases if it is painted pearl white and glitter paint is applied to it.  Snow can be made in much the same way.  

 

Just a note here, Snowtex seems to be a seasonal item at the craftstore I work at, so you might want to buy it during the holidays in large amounts so you have enough for the year.

[Gobbo]

After the adhesive has dried, I take something called "snowtex" and apply this to the wooden disk and make sure that I use a bit of it on the actual mini's base to so that when I am done the entire base is covered and as it dries, the base of the mini and the wooden base look as if they are one and the same. †

I use Light Interior Spackle.  It is cheap and once it dries and you paint and flock, it is nice and smooth or as rough as you want it to be.  Make sure you get the Light version though, the regular spackle craks and is too heavy when it dries.  While is is wet, it has the consistancy of frosting.

[Kheprera]

I use Light Interior Spackle. †It is cheap and once it dries and you paint and flock, it is nice and smooth or as rough as you want it to be. †Make sure you get the Light version though, the regular spackle craks and is too heavy when it dries. †While is is wet, it has the consistancy of frosting.

Just remember it isn't frosting and should not be eaten. :p

[Froggy the Great]

Wow.

I, um, paint the sculpted bases that come on the model, and don't worry too much about it.  I operate under the idea that people really just want to look at the model, and the base is there to keep the model upright.  Thus, so long as the base looks intentional, you're good to go.

 

But then, I'm part of the heretical minority.  Carry on.

[Steven Page]

here's a tip for REALLY big bases, as in for a dragon:

 

Figure out the size you need,(T'raukzel needed a 6 x 4 inch segment) and deduct 1/2 inch from the lenght. Use 4 x 1/4 basswood, and make sure the grain runs longways. Cut it to

5-1/2 inches, then woodglue a 4 x 1/4 x 1/4 piece on each end. After this dries, drill and peg the end pieces. This will add a great deal of strenght to the base, and at least in my case, prevented warping when I applied scenery to the wood.

I hope this helps someone.

[Kheprera]

I was pondering using some sort of crystal diode when I get Deathsleet.

 

Still trying to figure that one out, though.

[Enchantra]

Above bases for Dragons were mentioned.

 

Well recently I mounted a dragon mini onto a piece of cut wood.  At the Michaels where I work down in the wood area, we have small wood plaques roughly around $0.80 I believe.  These make excellent bases for Dragons.  I use E600 and cement the dragon to the base.  Allowing that to cure for several hours to overnight, I then apply my snowtex and silica gel pellets as I normally would.  The result is a large stury base that supports the full weight of the Dragon.

[Gobbo]

I see the use of silica gel pellets, I have no idea what these are.  does anyone have a pic of a base with these so I can see if I need them?

[Enchantra]

Well, I don't have a digital camera or web cam so I will describe to you what silica gell pellets are Gobbo.

 

Have you ever opened up a brand new box of stereo equipment and seen that little packet at the bottom that sometimes has a skull and crossbones on it or some kind of writing that states to the effect of, "Silica gel, do not eat," Or, "Dessicant, poison?"  Inside this itty packet is silica gell.  Cut the packet open and pour the contents into a small dish.  You will see that these pellets are spheroid, ovoid, or oblate spheroid in shape.  They make kickin' rocks when glued to a base and painted up.

[Gobbo]

Hmmm, interesting, and here I have been throwing them away all this time!  :(

[Cedar]

For the one and only dragon I've ever done and for the Slaan Mage Priest (both GW minis) I mounted the itty bitty plastic bases on thin plywood (1/8 inch I think) bases cut to size with a utility knife and shaped a bit with a file. †I fasten the plastic base to the plywood with a 2-part epoxy with a 24 hr setting time. †

 

It works for me and provides a very stable base. †I think I am prolly in the same camp as Frosch, though. †I focus my meagre skills on the mini, not the base.