Jump to content

kristof65

Rottweiler Grav Tank by Kristof65

Recommended Posts

Continuing on from my sculpting thread here, I've begun assembly and painting of my Rottweiler tank. 

IMG_2320.thumb.JPG.31d9b35cc191d8cc8f67c9cb98b7ca6e.JPG

 

Started sanding and first coat of primer. Ran out of black primer, so stalled myself out. 
IMG_2328.thumb.JPG.257e0df06d2f779c86ec4fdb916a3459.JPG

I'm thinking this might be a practice piece for a ReaperCon entry of the same tank. 

  • Like 12

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sanded, primed, sanded, primed, sanded again, and now it's ready for my paint job.  Whatever that is going to be. 

IMG_2332.thumb.JPG.aeb054c43cc0621f94a15fdf3999d727.JPG

  • Like 11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Wonderful vehicle!

Thanks!

 

8 hours ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

That's awesome!

Hoping to get a 3d printer this year.  Roughly what would that have cost, in plastic, to print?

 

 It's printed in Hatchbox Grey PLA which costs about $22-26 for a Kilogram spool on Amazon (depends on stock levels).

 

The tank itself weighs a little over 200 grams, but in terms of plastic used, it was probably closer to 250 grams, thanks to support material, aborted prints, options not shown here, etc. Essentially, I can print 4 tanks from a single spool.

 

So about $6-7. And about 30 hours total time on the printer for all the parts.

 

There are cheaper filaments available, but I've found I have more print problems with those, which means I'd likely only able to get three tanks from a spool, which means it would still work out to about $6-7.

 

Started my paint job.  I'm using Siri's tutorial on rust. I'll then use the salt chipping method over the rusted areas, and spray my base coat.  So it's going to not only look weird for a bit here, most of what I'm doing right now will be covered up.IMG_20180211_163240.thumb.jpg.bbe9245638d89f16d6884594fe320204.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, and I'm looking forward to seeing your weathering...I've got some mechs I'm working on but I'm not planning on weathering these ones too much...but there are more to come.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far it looks like a glorious mess:

IMG_20180212_201039.thumb.jpg.0bd68dd387e2411cf32fb96fd72023d4.jpg

Overall, the application of Siri's rust method looks horrible on this model (it looks far better on the Iron Golem and Skid Loader you can see in the background).  The good news is that there are some localized spots that look really good - so that's where the salt will go for the next step.

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the salt applied:

IMG_20180215_123807.thumb.jpg.b835b09405770a14177718e34696975d.jpg

IMG_20180215_123801.thumb.jpg.719f6a26026a7a4e09a9d07760f05dce.jpg

 

And started the base coat.

IMG_20180215_124054.thumb.jpg.8b693cffdafd00affdbb44d8150a9eed.jpg

 

Once the base coat is dry, I'll have to go carefully pick all that salt off. If it works, then I'll have chipped paint with rusted spots underneath.

  • Like 9

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Frustrated. And as a result, I've put this aside for a bit, even though I know I should just soldier on. 

IMG_2341.thumb.JPG.a9053b4d08a269a70454ff3232316461.JPG

The problem is that I didn't get the results I expected from the salt chipping method. 
IMG_2337.thumb.JPG.f665d7bb7dca1fa0644c29e2b2b56e16.JPGIMG_2338.thumb.JPG.01475a50f1b32e99ba0dd9d794988f04.JPGIMG_2339.thumb.JPG.6797172541160f110d4bbd4a230dd2c7.JPGIMG_2340.thumb.JPG.0e8cc417cf59ca28deca74cc757587ac.JPG

 

It worked, but I miscalculated.  Scale wise, it's probably "accurate".  But visually, you can barely tell. 

When I did this on my Tycho AFV, I felt I put too much salt down in too few areas of concentration and I didn't really like the results there.  So this time, I sprinkled it more lightly, but it turned out to be too lightly. 

The other mistake I made here is that I didn't really think about where I wanted the rust to appear.  I concentrated mostly on what I would consider "wear areas" without really thinking about it.  I did this because I was thinking it would save me some effort if I didn't paint the rust undercoat on the whole model. 

What I learned.  
- paint the whole darn thing like a rust bucket. 
- use more salt.  

I'm glad I decided up front that this was going to be a practice model for an RCon entry. 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For rust I use chipping medium.

 

Paint normal metal color.

Use chipping medium

Paint Rust all over.

Use a WET toothbrush and scrape off where you want the original colour to shine through.

Very easy and controllable

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to ask: why are you doing rust on the tank to begin with? From my limited military experience, if you let your vehicle get rusty you are in a world of excrement with your C.O..

AND would a Grav Tank be made out of metal? I would bet a SciFi tank would be armored in some ultra ceramic material.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, malefactus said:

I have to ask: why are you doing rust on the tank to begin with? From my limited military experience, if you let your vehicle get rusty you are in a world of excrement with your C.O..

AND would a Grav Tank be made out of metal? I would bet a SciFi tank would be armored in some ultra ceramic material.

Rust happens.  Especially under field conditions.  I'm a Navy Veteran, and one of the things I learned is that ships are basically in the process of being repainted almost all the time. But even so, there are areas that can get corroded and rusty pretty quickly.  I imagined that tanks in the field are similar. And what little I could find on the subject showed the same:

http://www.misterjustin.com/2012/05/inspiration-weathering-tanks.html

 

As for why a grav tank might get rusty?  You're right that they're probably made of some fancy ultralight ultra hard composite material, but how do you convey that visually to the average viewer AND make it look used?   Rust and corrosion are the simplest ways to say "this thing is not a shiny museum piece, but a tank in the field of battle." 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...if it moves, salute it; if it doesn't paint it. Gotcha.

There are ways of making a military vehicle look "lived in" that don't entail rust.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Orlando_the_Technicoloured
      What is evil, yet cute? a KICKSTARTER that's what.

      Since SoC's delivery is in full throttle, it's time to announce the SIBLINGS OF CHAOS. Coming from the dark places of the galaxy, and serving Gods of terrible designs, they march for the total ruination of everything!     from the same team that brought us Siblings of Conflict, Impact! Miniatures and Marchen return with more goodies for us (after delivery of the Siblings is complete
    • By kristof65
      So these are the two terrain pieces I finished up last night. The core of both these models are from Terrain4Print's Ulvheim modular terrain system and printed in PLA at 0.2mm on my Prusa.
       
      This was a quick "gazebo" made exclusively of pieces I printed:
       
      This is a hybrid piece. The foundation and walls are still Ulvheim pieces, epoxied together, and Magic Sculpt used to blend the seams between the pieces on the outside. The roof was made by me using card board and card stock, while the strips for the upper floor are just plastic card.




       
      The reason I went with the handcrafted roof is because while the T2P roofs are nice, the number of pieces available limit the roof options. By hand building my roofs, I can get as complex as I want.
       
      I'm really enjoying this hybrid approach of 3d printing and hand crafting.
       
      My next building is a larger church.
    • By ratsmitglied
      So I have a commission to print a bunch of 37mm Type 55 Chinese AA guns in 15mm scale. Most parts are in resin to get the requisite detail.
       
      After 6 hours printing time we have all the gun barrels and most of the cruciform bases complete (unfortunately one failed), the gun mounts and remaining cruciform bases are currently on the printer.
       
      I'll add photos of all the parts as they're completed (I won't be assembling them though as I don't trust the postal service!)
       
      Questions welcome ;-)
       

    • By GrandPrince
      So after painting a bunch of fantasy adventurers, I decided I needed a bit of a change of pace.  Enter my finds of some IMEF infantrymen and a mech from something I'm not familiar with (all Reaper minis).. and combine that with my extensive experience with military model kits.  What you get is this project to paint the IMEF guys in colors inspired by the Japanese Special Naval Landing Forces; one is finished and the others are in progress.
       
      The mech is being painted up in camo inspired by Japanese army tank camo colors to make it kind of a matching set.  In the last pic you can also see my Victorian adventuress from the Raj, if you want to call it that.
       




    • By lazarp
      So I painted this one for a friend to use as his goliath fighter in our dnd campaign.
      It was a quick and easy paint, since he asked me to keep it simple. I like how it turned out considering the printing quallity
      Also, the blade of his original sword broke of, so I replaced it with a warhammer empire greatsword blade 
       

  • Who's Online   33 Members, 2 Anonymous, 239 Guests (See full list)

×