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Just reporting in -- I traveled to Seattle and back with these over the last week for NorWesCon, including switching planes at Minneapolis, and they worked like a charm.  TSA had no qualms, and a couple of agents ooh-ed and ahh-ed over the minis.

 

One thing I've learned is that for the few minis that are using standard Reaper bases, I need to double up on the washers.  One 5/16" washer fits neatly inside, but there's a gap between the washer and the magnetic surface, which makes the bond weaker and more prone to coming loose.  Stacking two washers on top of one another lets the bottom one poke out slightly so that there is direct contact between the metal and the magnetic sheet.

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3 minutes ago, Painting Dog said:

Has anybody tried putting a couple of those tiny rare earth magnets on the bottom of a slot base, instead of a single sheet of the self-adhesive stuff?

 

I haven't, yet.  You'd want to experiment with some cheap miniatures, because you want enough grab to immobilize it transport, but not so much that you rip the figure loose from the base (or the ankles!) in getting them out of the box.  

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9 minutes ago, Painting Dog said:

Has anybody tried putting a couple of those tiny rare earth magnets on the bottom of a slot base, instead of a single sheet of the self-adhesive stuff?

 

I have, but it was a little tricky positioning the magnets for gluing.  The problem was because the magnets were tiny, and didn't quite sit flush with the bottom of the base.  I wanted to try to correct that with a bit of green-stuff, but didn't get around to it. 

 

The second problem I had was I didn't have any appropriate tools for handling the magnet.  Everything I has was metal, so the magnet would stick to the tool instead of letting the glue hold it. 

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6 hours ago, Clearman said:

 

I have, but it was a little tricky positioning the magnets for gluing.  The problem was because the magnets were tiny, and didn't quite sit flush with the bottom of the base.  I wanted to try to correct that with a bit of green-stuff, but didn't get around to it.

 

I use magnets to secure my 1/300 scale wargaming stuff for transport and storage.

 

2018-02-19-magnetizing.jpg

 

The way I do it is by laying out the magnets on a silicone baking sheet over a piece of steel — in this case, a ruler. The magnets are strong enough to grip through the rubber sheet. Then I add a dab of 5-minute epoxy to the top of the magnet, and one to the bottom of the model, and put the model over the magnet.

 

I prefer to use epoxy rather than cyanoacrylate because it encapsulates the whole thing, and there's less chance of it coming away because the nickel plating has come loose, which can happen especially with cheap magnets. Also, it's gap-filling, which means that it doesn't matter if the magnet is thinner than the gap it sits in; the glue will fill the space.

 

This method guarantees that the magnet is perfectly flush with the bottom of the model's wheels or tracks or whatever.

 

If you want to use magnets to secure things like turrets or guns or hands or equipment or whatever, the thing to do is to emplace one magnet in the socket first, and let the glue cure. Then add a separator to the area and pop another magnet to the one already embedded. I usually use cling-film; grease or vaseline also works, but will have to be thoroughly cleaned away before painting. With that second magnet held in place by the first, just glue the second component over the top, held in place however you like — blu-tak or plasticine work well. This ensures that you have perfect registration between the two magnets, and it also guarantees that you don't accidentally get the polarities wrong.

Edited by MojoBob
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I regularly do some of the things people have mentioned having trouble with, so I thought I'd chime in. I travel by air to at least two and occasionally three or more conventions a year.

If I can, my preferred method of travel is to wrap figures in bubble wrap and put them in hard sided pencil cases at the bottom of my carryon backpack. Painted Bones I'll just fit into the gaps around the bubble wrap since they only need to be immobilized to travel safely. Once or twice I've had it scan as something odd and have to be checked. (There was one occasion where the wrapped figures plus a couple of loose unpainted metal figures  and some other things in my backpack gathered together in such a way as to appear like an arrowhead on the scanner.) On that occasion they unpacked the bag enough to scan and see not an arrowhead. I've had them open up the plastic container to look, and I think maybe once I was asked to unroll the bubblewrap on a figure, but the majority of the time no one even looks in my backpack.

If there are resin figures, fragile basework, or too many/too large of figures for that solution, my second best preferred method is the clear plexiglass fronted Tablewar case. I fly out of a city only served by small regional jets, so the smallest size of this case is what fits easily under a seat or in the overhead compartment. I think it's possible the next size up would also fit in the overhead, but I'd measure and check with the airline before I bought one. The TSA agents look in the case and can plainly see this was something that took some effort to do. I've had my case (inside and out) swabbed, but it was done with care.

Prior to that I had a wooden case with no transparent elements. It was less obvious what the contents were, so more likely to be opened inappropriately. I didn't end up having any problems personally, but I do have friends who've had things opened in such a way that minis fell out. There's no 100% solution unfortunately.

I also at least once traveled with a briefcase that had divider sections, and I placed the minis wrapped in bubblewrap with those. I think that may have been the time I was asked to unwrap a figure.

Every solution I've used I've regularly been swabbed for drugs or explosives or whatever they're swabbing for, but I've been getting my stuff swabbed when I fly since before 9/11, so there's just something about me that says rampant drug use I guess! ;->

I only put things I would not miss very much into my checked luggage. That is too much trust for me. I try to not even put unpainted resin or metal masters in there.

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So, this isn't about travel, really.  But having discovered the joy of magnetism, I maaaaaay have gone a little overboard.

 

overboard-01.thumb.jpg.392be4c646b755b3767883b09405b439.jpg

 

That's sixteen trays.  All fully magnetized.

 

overboard-02.thumb.jpg.ab59b309bae791a4b9f1b3b6fdac30c2.jpg

 

The trays had kind of a weird shape at the front, and I was working with a 2'x10' roll of 6 mil magnetic sheeting with adhesive backing that I got from discountmagnets.com.  So to get the shape right, I drilled holes in one of the drawers using my pin vise at the points indicated in this picture (plus two at the other end, off camera):

 

overboard-03.jpg.ad0d7d9d96e5addc6a7071bb14a2bb18.jpg

 

And then I put it on top of a piece of cardboard, poked holes in the cardboard through the holes in the drawer using a paperclip, connected the dots with a ruler and a pencil, and voila, a template!

 

overboard-04.jpg.2912de332c2c74457faf97d992060b26.jpg

 

After that, all that was left was to trace it onto the adhesive backing with a sharpie, painstakingly cut out sixteen shapes (which used basically the entire sheet minus a few scraps), and put it in the drawers.

 

Oh yes, and glue washers to minis.  Hundreds of them.  And just because I am a glutton for punishment, I sanded the washers first to give them a nice rough toothy surface for the superglue to adhere to.  My shoulder may never forgive me.

 

In related news, for the first time I actually used up an entire bottle of superglue before it got too old to use!  Go me!

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My storage boxes are mostly magnetized as well, so it seems like a good idea to me. ::D:

 

In other related news, though, I brought my travel set along with me recently:

 

D46AD942-D57A-40ED-86C2-4EB543F7CF37.thumb.jpeg.addaf2ab76257a036a584e147c164cd1.jpeg

 

 

That’s a 2.5 liter Really Useful Box on top of a 6 liter and a 12 liter. The assembly would fit IN the overhead, but I had to unstrap the 2.5 from the array to get it INTO the space.  I had thought that I had brought the 12 and 2 6s on an air trip, but I guess that wasn’t so.

 

No interest from the TSA this time either, although it’s all plastic, fabric and cardstock this trip.

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EB26FAE6-28C2-4443-850A-A3CCE8AD0171.thumb.jpeg.dd11efbf52a77f335c4c7bba9896036d.jpeg

 

With Gencon coming up, I finally got around to implementing wdmartin’s magnetized bits box to add to my 2.5 liter overflow box. I haven’t figured out what dice or tokens are needed yet, but it’s there for when I do.

 

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On 4/22/2018 at 7:33 AM, Painting Dog said:

Has anybody tried putting a couple of those tiny rare earth magnets on the bottom of a slot base, instead of a single sheet of the self-adhesive stuff?

 

I've used magnetic bases and metal tray bottoms for years with good results. Rare earth magnets can fit into the holes in fender washers and holding them in place with epoxy works pretty well. And if you pick your magnet thickness right, they'll fit nearly perfectly in the voids in a slotta base.

 

Note that if you use JB Weld or JB Kwik, rare earth magnets will attract the metal filings embedded into the epoxy, so you would probably do better to use something different for this purpose. (Learning that was an interesting thing. :blink:)

 

On 4/30/2018 at 10:40 AM, Wren said:

Every solution I've used I've regularly been swabbed for drugs or explosives or whatever they're swabbing for, but I've been getting my stuff swabbed when I fly since before 9/11, so there's just something about me that says rampant drug use I guess! ;->

 

TSA doesn't really care about drugs and the luggage inspectors employed by the airports definitely cared only about explosives and propellants. So it's more that you look like a mad bomber, I think.

 

Seems right.

 

::D:

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So, I just am getting my minis out of their boxes I moved them in, and wanted to report an interesting alternate method of transportation. It seemed to work really well with big minis, and a little too well for smaller. 

 

3M double sided tape is amazing, and combined with media mailing boxes with locking tabs (various sizes, they are usually white and very sturdy), I was able to transport all my minis (somewhere in the north of 4000 range now) without a single breakage due to the move. The 3M stuff also leaves no residue, so the minis are in nearly perfect condition.

 

A cautionary tale though, give each mini a bit more space than you think you need, and a little of the tape goes a long way. Cover less than half the base for smaller minis, and just one edge on just the edge of the tape for bigger minis/displays/unit bases. I did experience breakage due to over-taped minis, and prying them off with a screwdriver led to them bumping into other nearby minis. The best removal results have thus far been on minis where the tape only barely touched an edge. A simple twist of the screwdriver underneath pops them off without too much effort, and doesn't send them flying into other minis. The occasional base gets scraped too, due to tight corridors for the screwdriver.

 

For big moves, I highly recommend it. 

Edited by pinkymadigan
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Is that a thick, 'foam' tape?

I have had good experience using a long, thin-bladed knife(one of those 18mm wide 'break-off' blades, whatever they're called) to cut through the center of that type of tape. 

I assume it would work OK on thin tape, also...  

 

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